|
Development of Traditional Printing Designs
The main source of the designs is surroundings. In textile printing also, mainly motifs derived from nature and man-made objects which are part of the near environment of the artist are used. With the help of color blend and changes in width and length, the artist creates optical illusions. In hand block printing, repetition is needed. So, good skill of the artist in uniform repeat is a most-needed thing.
The repeats in different styles make different designs like in line or in circle. With a creative approach, an artist can produce a number of designs with a single block.
Every region has a different and typical style of printing and they follow their particular pattern of design making.
In Bagh, designs are produced by arranging blocks in square, rectangular and diamond shapes. In Nandana prints, lines are produced by using blocks in series. In Batik, the use of blocks is in a free hand manner and generally geometrical and floral designs are produced.
Motifs of Traditional Printing Designs
 The cave paintings also became a source of inspiration for the motifs. Birds, animals and surroundings are also a good source of inspiration for designs. In India, temple architecture also influences the motifs and design patterns. The mango motif (kairi) is available in 1000 modified forms. Small flower motifs like chameli, mango leaf and chilly motifs are also very popular. In Nandana prints, the mango motif and leaf are arranged in different ways and printed in indigo colors. Other geometrical structures like pyramid, pentagonal, triangles and circular buti are also seen in Nandana prints. This sometimes gives the effect of woven borders.
Generally it is believed that these kinds of flowers, geometrical and bird motifs are suitable only on coarse fabric and traditional ones like Lugda. The National workshop organized by Central Silk Technological Research Institute (CSTRI) has shown the use of the same motifs on chiffon, crepe, georgette and dupion and has also shown that this is fit for running fashion and present day trends.
Mordants for natural Dyes of Traditional Printing
Mordants are fixing agents. They give a strong bond between textile material and colorants. Metallic compounds like Copper sulphate, Aluminium sulphate and ferrous sulphate are normally used as mordants. Some metallic materials affect the final products, like ferrous sulphate that leaves a blackish shade on the final fabric while alum improves washing and makes it fast.
 Alum:
Alum is a colorless, commonly used mordant which is used since ancient times.
Chrome:
Sodium dichromate and bichromate of potash or potassium are common chrome mordants and are used for dyeing of cotton.
Copper:
Copper sulphate which is known as ‘blue vitriol’ is also used for dyeing since long. It is poisonous, so extra care is needed while using it.
Iron:
Iron is used in the form of ferrous sulphate. This is the easiest form in which iron is available. It affects the final color of the fabric. Earlier, it was used to produce black and grey in combination, but now it is used as a post-mordant.
|