This art apart from Gujarat state is also practiced in neighboring state of Rajasthan and in appliqu art of Orissa. Many different types of stitches like cross stitch, buttonhole stitch and satin stitch are used in its combination. This art is often done by the aid of machine embroidery, but in some places it is still done through hand work which is more time consuming and a costly affair in comparison to the former technique. The mirrors used are of different shapes and sizes like round shape, diamond shape, square shape, etc. However round shape is the most common shape of mirrors used in this form of embroidery.
Mirror work is done on different fabrics and types of garments. Apart from ethnic garments it is crafted even on indo western clothes. It has huge demand in western countries. Mirror work is done on cushion covers, purses, bedsheets, curtains, wearable garments, wall hangings, decorative items, laces, etc. This embroidery has also seen the limelight of international ramp shows too.
Kantha is the traditional form of embroidery of West Bengal. It is running style of stitch. The embroidery is done on many layers of cloth. It is done on quilts, bedsheets, blankets, saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc.
It is also known as Dorukha. This word means making worn out garments into beautiful garments. Therefore it is also known as recycling art. In earlier times the worn out silk or muslin clothes where used to be put in piles and stitched together. It is believed that its date of origin lies during the era of Lord Buddha. They used to drape themselves with rags of clothes that were stitched together.
The artists usually embroidery images of human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and mythological figures. Generally the worker selects the figure of embroidery to which they relate to. There are different types of kantha done- Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.
Different types of patterns like jaal, folk life designs, dhan chori, etc are done in kantha embroidery. The rural women of West Bengal usually do it on cotton saris with thread taken from the borders of the sari and done all over.
The state of Uttar Pradesh especially the city of Lucknow is considered to be the hub of Chikankari embroidery. Chikankari is derived from the word Chakeen that means elegant patterns on the fabric which is a Persian word. Earlier it was done with white thread on muslin clothes. However now it is been done on various types of fabrics like cotton, linen nylon, georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics. Apart from wearable garments it is also done on various other things like curtains, bedsheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers.
Unlike earlier times it is not only done on white colored cloths but also fabrics of various colors. But the thread used for the embroidery is generally white. Various motifs are embroidered through it like floral motifs which include flowers like rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers, etc.