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Interview with Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra
Rahul Mishra
Designer

Environment-employment empowerment is way forward
Rahul Mishra strongly feels that sustainable luxury goes hand in hand with slowing fashion. His perspective expands the very definition of slow fashion. It is not just about conscious consumption versus consumed, or quality versus quantity, or education versus ignorance; it is also about slowing the process of making the garment and the numerous artisan hands involved in making those, and it is about natural imperfection versus mechanical perfection. This perspective is exhilarating for the change it brings. Mishra’s philosophy of serving and empowering the poor artisans is based on Gandhian principles.

How has globalisation and the Internet both fed fast fashion yet also expanded slow fashion? (Ex: by-passing retail buyers; utilising indigenous skills). Is this a paradox that slow fashion can utilise to its advantage?

Global boundaries are dissolving with ever-changing times, and we see fashion more universal than ever. This is the era of communication, and fashion is one of the most effective tools-information travels at the speed of light. Fashion has much bigger reach, and it is influencing us like never before. According to me, fashion can bring about positive changes in society, if we practice the sustainable approach. The newness in fashion thrives on unique design language, and it cannot be created in isolation; so one always needs to work with strong references. These references can be drawn from the raditional craft and practices very efficiently. I think the best fashion or product can be designed when one can see far back in the past, and create something for the future. The idea of fashion is the strongest, when unique design language is based on one's culture and tradition. When I work with large group of rural weavers practicing traditional craft in India, I get astonished with the power of fashion. Unlike any other profession, fashion allows a humble villager who has never been to any school, the power to dream. It helps him/her to satisfy his/her hunger as an artist and at the same time he/she is able to afford all modern necessities.
 

What does 'slow fashion' mean to you and your work?

'Slow fashion' is the idea of slowing down the process of making a garment so as to make it participatory-employ multiple hands, increase its shelf life and have minimum impact on the environment. The craftsmanship involved with cutting edge fashion is a great formula for maximising participation across villages. In this century, we need to look at fashion from a completely new perspective, because fashion can lead the society to new and better world. The idea of fashion needs to be redefined, it should be created not just for consumption; but it should also remain focused on participation. There should be an active participation- engagement correlating environment, which should create employment and lead to an overall empowerment.

Do you believe the fashion calendar has gone about as fast as it can (why); and how can both designers and customers slow this pace down?

Fashion calendars have gone as fast as they can because fashion weeks are held to increase business and showcase the newness of fashion. The busy and fast fashion calendar gives birth to new and numerous trends every season, which are short-lived, and in the days of the Internet even shorter. Now we have come down to a point of fashion fatigue, because of ever-changing trends and pressure to look new every time. With fast fashion and ultra-fast lifestyle, we have completely forgotten the joy of wearing new clothes, the newness today looks a touch monotonous. So, it is critical to slow down the pace and enjoy fashion to the fullest. Designers should focus on creating a sustainable newness, by slowing down the process of garment-making and creating more classic trans-seasonal looks. I think for the coming generation, the idea of fashion needs to be redefined-it should be created not just for consumption; but social responsibility should be underlined equally. The customer needs to be informed about the garment industry's connection and impact on the environment and depleting resources, slowing of the supply chain to reduce the number of trends and seasons, encourage quality production, and return greater value to garments removing the image of disposability of fashion. The knowledge should be fuelled using social media tools-the process of the product and the story must be told, so that customers can make an informed choice.

In your opinion, what are the biggest influences towards the slow fashion movement?

Slowing down the process of fashion gives protection to handwork and greater importance to human skills, reverts back to natural sources and resources from a specific region, optimises usage of natural fibres and thus can mean a larger impact, if-yes-recession and social conscience are added as bait.

What feedback do you get from customers about how they feel in your products versus their experience of fast fashion?

I do get great comments and testimonials from customers. They say amazing things about the craftsmanship and the storytelling; they feel the instant connect with the product and feel the life in them.

Why is it important to slow down the pace, i.e. who and what are being harmed with the super-fast-pace of much of fashion today?

Fast fashion is the biggest threat to the traditional crafts, but fashion is also the only hope for it. We have to focus on sustainable luxury-for me, sustainable luxury is all about reinventing traditional handloom textiles and crafts in a way, which connect them to luxury markets by making them one of a kind, tailor-made products that allow the owner to resemble no one else and show an appreciation and respect for craftsmanship. Luxury is a personal instinct where products need to have a meaning, heritage and an anecdote. Every craft of India has got a distinct meaning with a very strong heritage. When I work with craft, it is from a storyteller's delight! The main focus behind our Woolmark collection was the idea of sustainable luxury through participation. Mahatma Gandhi's saying influenced our thought process: "Recall the face of the poorest and weakest man you have seen, and ask yourself if this step you contemplate is going to be of any use to him." So in that context we produce sustainable luxury, involving maximum participation and talk about reverse migration wherein we do not displace the craftspeople from their surroundings and dwellings.

What are some major similarities and differences between haute couture and slow fashion? Can slow fashion bring some couture aspects successfully to the wider public?

In my opinion not all haute couture is slow fashion; slow fashion needs to be done in eco-friendly ways. The perception of couture being similar to slow fashion makes it perceived as an expensive option. Slow fashion can be handmade, something reused or recycled. Slow fashion is also dependent on the slowness of fibre; for example, the slow fibres like wool, silk and cotton are best to practice slow fashion.

Why do you believe the fast-fashion paradigm is unsustainable/illogical (I assume you do) and how would you answer someone who says: "seems good to me, customers get what they want, brands make good profits?"

The fashion industry has broadly classified itself into two fashion seasons: spring/summer and fall/winter. Now the fast forward fashion industry is churning out many "micro-seasons" per year. With new trends coming out every week, the goal of fast fashion is for consumers to buy as many garments as possible, as quickly as possible. And to be able to produce so rapidly, one has to look at fast fibre; that is why most of our fast fashion clothing today is made with synthetic, petroleum-based fibres. It will take decades for these garments to decompose, when they go into landfills. This process is based on heavy mechanisation, although it employs millions of people. Yet it creates huge unemployment for the craft sector as it leads to decline in demand in the craft sector.

Do you consider slow fashion a reaction trend, or do you believe it can truly alter the way the fashion paradigm exists today?

I think the idea of social responsibility completely depends on empowerment of the less privileged population. Whenever I start working on any project I think of this, and get the critical direction for my process. That is why we always work with traditional handloom and hand-embroideries to employ and empower rural weavers of India. I always think of the three E's when I start to create a collection: environment, employment and empowerment, and if you can think about all these things then your product will be perfect. That is the way forward for all products, and the right way to be socially and environmentally responsible. It applies to all industries, not just fashion. For me life exists with imperfection. This imperfection is created by slow fashion. When a garment is produced by multiple hands, and involves various hand processes, they get imperfection, which is like a footprint of the handwork, which any individual product or piece has gone through.
Published on: 15/07/2016

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.