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Atelier Gardeur checks in with men's dusky summer trousers
May '14
“2015 Spring/Summer 2015 season sees a consistent further development of our trend conscious collection. Denim continues to be a key theme and appears with a comprehensive range, summery new textures and clean surfaces. Detailintensive finishes with high-quality findings like metal and leather labels round off the look. Black, grey and Sahara tones are key colour additions to blue denim,” said, Uta Erbelinger, Head of Design Menswear Atelier GARDEUR
Overall, the colours in the 2015 Spring/Summer collection are milder and more subdued. The spectrum ranges from chalk stone and pale sand through to cinnamon cone. Blue tones and navy nuances like dusty blue, soft indigo and navy form the basis here. Bold colours like sea grass, burnt amber and dusty olive round off the overall picture and also feature with a satin finish.
The three familiar fits Regular Fit (with a 43 cm hem and moderate silhouette), Modern Fit (with a 40 cm hem and slim silhouette) and Slim Fit (with a 38 cm hem and extra slim silhouette) have now been joined by Athletic Fit (with a 40 cm hem and a sporty silhouette loosely cut at the thigh).
The Themes
Under the heading denim most wanted Atelier GARDEUR once again attaches importance to the trend topic of denim in the 2015 menswear collection, transposing the theme in great variety. Alongside new textures and surfaces, transparent coatings and quality findings are important. Leather appliqués and piping on back and cent pockets give denim trousers a fresh, sporty touch. This season, colour denims come in subdued tones and look refreshingly casual with patch details like reverse-face fabrics and coarse stitching. The denim segment is upgraded by linen and silk blends that add that necessary casual note in summer. 
Whether as “linen denim” or as “silk denim” with 38% silk both styles add a special feel and elegance. With impressive details in the 2015 Spring/Summer season Atelier GARDEUR focuses on decorative details and high-quality and expressive finishes with clean looks like contrast topstitching and colour-coordinated buttons. 
Coarse stitching and highquality details like ribbons and leather appliqués highlight the skilled craftsmanship used to make the trousers. Different pocket lining combinations are toyed with afresh creating a lively mix of micro designs and floral patterns. Double-face dyeing with reverse fabric faces in earthy and chalky tones on loops and selvages make for suitable surface contrasts.
Bring on summer and with it special fabrics and finishes. Indigo coatings on interesting cotton textures add a new sporty look building a bridge to denim. Discreet micro textures in a mouliné look with fine-thread cotton yarns, 3D effects thanks to twotone weaves as well as piqué and knitted looks are all increasingly moving into the foreground. Subdued desert tones like chalk stone and pale sand are created by twinside dyeing with chalky beige reverse faces.


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