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Gucci women's A/W line juxtaposes demure silhouettes
21
Feb '13
The Women’s Autumn/Winter Collection juxtapose   a demure silhouette inspired by couture with a subversive undertone. Elegant shapes, outlined in strong, signature Gucci materials, contrast with accessories inspired by the fetish aesthetics of Allen Jones. A noir atmosphere saturated by color, envisioned on exclusive textiles and details.

“The Gucci woman seduces with her dangerous femininity,” explains Creative Director Frida Giannini. “She is steely yet sexy – defining her discipline with femme fatale vices. She wears sculpted dresses with pure graphics, all the while alluding to devious touches.”

SILHOUETTE

Constructed

The perfection of couture lines applied to ready-to-wear. The introduction of a new tailleur with the skirt. Powerful and body conscious. Jackets are caban style or small, either with softly egg-shaped shoulders or definition. In keeping with the coats. The pencil skirt is meticulously below the knee but reveals an unexpected slit. Worn high for a new, delicate take on the waistline. The little black dress inspires new interpretations, up to the neck or open to show the collar bone.

Either embracing the body and employing strategic leather inserts or cut on the bias for languid lines in shiny satin. The coat takes on the form-fitting shapes of a bustier, recalling a robe-manteau. The oversized overcoat is the only nod to the male wardrobe in a self-indulgingly ladylike collection. Even pants are feminine with tapering and short lengths. Sexy, irreverent touches finish each look: from t-shirts in leather and python to gloves and the collection’s leitmotif, fishnet tights with a back seam on every look.

COLORS and MATERIALS

Purple wine, rust, moss green and cerulean blue tainting black. A wise and novel use of materials and treatments makes each piece precious. Leather, both smooth and cracklé, patent, python, pony skin, Astrakhan, silk, bouclé, lace and wool, reworkings of pied de poule and Prince of Wales with shading and even lurex threading. Evoking chinoiserie, tapestry effects with three-dimensional fern leaves see woven metallics interrupting the black dresses, tailleur and outerwear. A cape in goat hair with shading from black to green embellishes an Astrakhan skirt suit.

EVENING

Cinematic

A black-out of lace followed by an outburst of color. Ethereal looks with netting and satin, embroidered with feathers, studding, and sequins – intersecting punk with couture. Every facet of evening: from the t-shirt and skirt to the pairing of pants and tops, through to cocktail dresses and evening gowns. 

Gucci


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