Gucci presents its menswear collection for autumn-winter 2012. He is searching for a name for that rose. Tucked into the pocket of an evening jacket like a secret memory. Saturated with blue and red ink from his writing. His dedication to Les fleurs du mal blossoms in the prints and in the jacquard effects. Unveiling a vocabulary of intellectual luxury for new Helmut Berger rebels.
Visconti grunge - “These are tormented poets with an effortless attitude, when it comes to mixing and creating a personal style,” explains Creative Director Frida Giannini, “Fabrics that allude to the nineteenth century, softly oversized pieces, shirts with a dandy hint, and the nonchalance of a newly-arrived young Hollywood actor.” With that magnetic, dreamy gaze of Leonardo DiCaprio in Total Eclipse.
SILHOUETTE
Bohemian grunge - With warm layers overlapping, like the bud of a flower. Deconstructed coats with oversized lines and peacoats with Prussian details, back-belts, and metallic buttons. Double-breasted blazers for an aesthete, cardigan-sculptures, and jackets with boxy lines to promenade this season's new style, short, free of volume, in botanical prints of roses and iris created exclusively for Gucci, for a graphic fil rouge along with tapestry prints and micropatterns.
EVENING
A hedonistic black-out. For the reinterpretation of the tuxedo. Dinner jackets and trousers in black velvet, impalpable and liquid. Trenches and blazers in lasercut ponyskin. Tuxedo jackets. To open the doors of a romantic cabinet of curiosities.
MATERIALS
Velvets for a modern Oscar Wilde. With déco floral designs, either printed or in precious jacquard achieved through traditional looming. British textiles and printed silks from ties. Vintage-style leather and crisp shearling. Knitwear with deluxe workings. Woven with intentional felt or intangible, light cardigans like innerwear. Masterful craftsmanship weaves together shearling and beaver for a fur coat.
ACCESSORIES
A streak of vanity. Mini chevalier in gold and small, romantic rosaries. Tall, equestrian-style boots with technical details, laced up with zippers on the back. Varying from calfskin to crocodile. Slippers in velvet or patent with micro horsebit buckles for evening. Travel bags in floral jacquard velvet or with designs from antique maps. Soft shapes for an escape by carriage or square lines like those of the old carry-on bags intended for shirts. Sizeable, with details in worn-in calfskin and combination locks. Through to the briefcase in crocodile with a handle in horn.
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