The obvious dominance of ecru across the line is reminiscent of the start of the human journey. Human experiences come to life with fuchsia, oranges and aurora red, blended effortlessly with natural whites. Indigo fights for the spotlight, a color that echoes the natural dye movement, a cause close to the collection.
Universal in her appeal, but defiantly Indian in her approach, they’re hints of an almost revivalist tendency. With an affinity for indigenous, hand-woven textiles, the usage of silk weaves like Maheshwaris, Chanderi, Tassar, Tissue, Matka, Kota and, Khadi cotton, resonate the free reign of thought of the human mind. Subtle metallic blends are a nod to innate strength, juxtaposed with the Zen-like quality of sheer, translucent voiles and linens, exploring a dichotomy between concealing and revealing, making the collection conceptual in essence.
There’s a raw, unmistakable honesty in her detailing; devoid of embellishments, the drama lies in the textural techniques. Engineered placements of the Shibori, tie & dye technique evoke the Bandhej tradition, and block prints inspired from mosaic styled geometric patterns are all infused with a prominent positioning of the Hamza, Hand of Fatima. The entire collection incorporates hand tucking, subtle ruching and dramatic pleats, alongside separates with touches of volume and movement, in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.
An unwavering belief in comfort and versatility are displayed through the use of layering, unconventional drapes and innovative cuts. Dresses with asymmetric folds and hemlines, Angrakha inspired tunics, cowelled shalwars, pleated and flared pants, along with layered, reversible sheer jackets and crop tops are the mainstay of the collection.
The collection exudes a timeless and ethereal quality, all the while swearing its allegiance to its creator’s artful sense of design, upstaged only by it’s rich, cultural connects.
Urvashi Kaur