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Jamdani, Ajrakh, Kalamkari & Kadwa brocade dominate LFW
Aug '14
Sanjay Garg
Sanjay Garg's Raw Mango/LFW
Mumbai’s National Institute of Fashion Technology grad Debashri Samanta opened the third day of ongoing Indian fashion fest Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014 with a Vietnam inspired collection named Hooked.

Mixing the rich culture of the Far Eastern country with hints of modernity, the designer wove a creative textile display crafted from Tussar, silk, crushed cotton and hand woven woollen Jamdani. Enhanced with handmade motifs of fish and hook, the line was based on a sombre palette of black, white, purple and grey hues.

The collection’s most standout pieces were an asymmetric hem knotted midi worn with a printed coat, a jumpsuit paired with a long hoodie, a knitted choli teamed with an oversized cape and a printed poncho alongside some drawstring trousers, cropped pants, pleated skirts and loose fit kurtas.

Divya Sheth, the designer known for her affinity towards indigenous fabrics, stayed true to her signature natural dyed Ajrakh patterns, a type of print mastered by the artisans of Gujarat’s Kutch region, for her latest catwalk presentation. Named as Ajrakh Jo Galicho (meaning Carpet of Ajrakh), the line was infused with hand painted traditional Kalamkari work and Uzbek Ikat.

The health conscious festive wear for spiritually inclined people was dyed with natural plants and herbs like turmeric, henna, madder flower and indigo to achieve tones of teal, khaki, red, yellow, green and blue. Detailed with gotta, quilting, raffia tassel and safety pins, the collection included wrap jumpsuits, woven shrugs, long sleeve boleros, dhoti pants, lehengas, 3-D fan appliquéd kurta coats and intricately embroidered satin gowns.

Clothing label Raw Mango, from Rajasthan-bred textile designer Sanjay Garg, highlighted the age old Kadwa Brocade technique of the Indian city of Varanasi. Adorned with gold patterns of flowers and birds on a silken base, the range was crafted in jewel tones of shocking pink, deep blue, peach, gold, white and parrot green.

Some of the major attractions of the collection were empire line midis, maxis, quilted jackets, sherwanis, slim kurtas, panelled gowns, sarees, lehengas, pajamas, shimmering dupattas and swirling shararas.

Fibre2fashion News Desk - India

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