Mood of the early Eighties in Gieves & Hawkes collection

10 Mar '10

2 min read

Throughout Gieves & Hawkes' history the Savile Row tailoring company has witnessed numerous social and political movements, itself being caught in the middle of political violence in the late Seventies.

In particular Gieves & Hawkes found inspiration in Gilbert and George's art, which reflects the mood of that particular era through strong visuals, rich colours and bold statements. Turning to the tradition of sartorial dressing Gieves & Hawkes want to emphasise the importance of the silhouette. The ambiance of the formal menswear collection is reflected in the dark colour palette, and rich, textured fabrics which makes the collection 'radically' sophisticated.

The inner conflict is reflected in the proportion and balance of the suit. While remaining true to Gieves & Hawkes' sartorial address, they have experimented with the men's bespoke tailoring of the silhouette, which is slightly slimmer and constructed in a more architectural fashion, and all hand made in England.

There are nods to their naval history in the finishing details such as hand sewn naval wing lapels on the unstructured luxury jackets. A technical highlight is the 'double, double breasted jacket' which consists of two jackets, layered together to create one garment. Also, drawing on the company's expansive heritage, a military parka constructed as a naval cloak in fine chinzed wool, based on similar designs and craftsmanship from the 19th Century.

Gieves & Hawkes are known for their formalwear, but for Autumn Winter 2010 the new classic eveningwear is presented in unusual luxury fabrics suitable for the season. The traditional shawl collar dinner suit has been created in a beautiful light grey flannel and a double breasted dinner jacket in rich burgundy mohair.

Other highlights of the collection are the super luxurious oatmeal double breasted, 100% cashmere overcoat and the 1940s inspired silk shirts with military print. Emphasis is made of the internal garment structure to ensure the perfect fit, and the fabric compositions make traditional garments feel more urban.

“The silhouette of the jackets and suits has a strong shoulder, balanced by an elegant waist line and a slightly longer body length to reflect the mood of the early Eighties; Britain's golden age for the creation of new music, fresh art…and new traditionalism.” Frederik Willems, Head of Design.

Gieves & Hawkes

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