1.5 mn pairs of redesigned denim jeans introduced to market in 2021-23

Three-quarters of garment manufacturers and fabric mills participating in the programme produced fabric or jeans adhering to the scheme’s guidelines, with another 9 per cent ready to do so. These successes can be attributed to cross-chain collaboration and commitment at a leadership level, according to ‘The Jeans Redesign Insights Report 2021-2023’.

Further, the scheme has catalysed innovation and the extension of circular business models within the sector. Research partnerships outside the fashion value chain have enhanced the industry’s circular design capacity. Consequently, 38 per cent of brands and manufacturers have implemented these principles to other denim products, while 29 per cent have applied them beyond denim to items such as jumpers, tops, and accessories.

As brands progress past the proof-of-concept stage, they are leveraging their creativity to normalise circular design principles. The ‘minimum bar’ of the Jeans Redesign guidelines was raised in 2021 to reflect the industry’s progress and the maturation of the innovation landscape.

Participants reported that, while available, post-consumer recycled content was costly and compromised durability. In addition, finding hardware solutions prohibiting conventional electroplating proved challenging. However, by 2023, participants demonstrated significant strides in these areas with increased use of recycled content and the widespread elimination of conventional electroplating.

While meeting certain tough guidelines, such as limiting non-cellulose-based fibres to 2 per cent, remains a challenge, the general trajectory is positive. Innovation gaps identified in 2021, like disassemblable threads and zippers, are yet to be fully addressed, pinpointing the need for further investment and innovation.

Collectively, a third of the participant group reported investments exceeding $39 million in 2023 to support the redesign of fabric and jeans fit for a circular economy. Brands have also paid premiums to source and certify recycled and organic content and disassemblable components.

Importantly, the redesigning process has stimulated demand signals that are crucial for shaping the infrastructure that supports a circular economy for fashion. Encouragingly, in 2021, 6 per cent of brands reported new models for accessing products. By 2023, this figure increased twelvefold, with 71 per cent of brands offering services or business models to keep jeans in use at their highest value.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (NB)