Reputation of spinners depend on quality yarn - Uster
“Total customer satisfaction is every spinner’s goal and reputations depend on it. Every critical yarn parameter must be tested to ensure that the resultant fabric meets expectations, says Uster Technologies, a reputed producer of yarn testing equipment.
Switzerland based - Uster adds, “There are two main types of yarn users; those committed to weaving or knitting high-quality fabrics, and those which serve commodity’ applications, yet both groups have their own specific requirements – and it’s essential that spinners understand these needs and how to meet them.”
Supporting the opinion of Uster is India based Pallavaa Group, which manufactures yarns from various non-conventional fibres like viscose, micromodal, modal, polyester, bamboo, supima and off course pure cotton.
“We are proud to be a supplier to renowned fashion retailers like NEXT, Marks & Spencer, H&M, Victoria’s Secret and others,” says Durai Palanisamy, Executive Director at Pallavaa Group. He also acknowledges that they depend on efficient quality control, which meets the requirements of demanding yarn buyers.
Uster informs that measurements from its Uster Tester 5 provide reports and analysis on evenness, imperfections and hairiness, while remaining defects and foreign fibers are covered by the Uster Classimat 5.
“It’s also true that some spinners, mainly serving the lower end of the market might believe that evenness (CVm) testing could be sufficient for their needs. But that view is mistaken,” says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager for Yarn Testing at Uster.
“CVm is indeed a relevant yarn quality parameter, but to predict the final fabric of a yarn it is essential to test other parameters too”, she informs.
Comprehensive testing at the Uster Technologies laboratory in Switzerland has shown that yarns with comparable CVm values can produce fabrics with obvious differences in appearance. In the tests, Ne24 cotton yarns from 10 different suppliers had insignificant differences in their CVm values, which could lead wrongly to the conclusion that the fabrics would look the same.
Further test data from the Uster Tester 5 showed results for neps which were close in 8 of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had a nep value below the 25 Uster Statistics Percentile (USP). But one of the yarns had a much higher nep value, even exceeding 50% of the Uster Statistics value, Uster explains.
“We know from experience that fabric knitted from yarn with a nep level over 50% will show little pilling on the surface,” says Gabriela Peters. The yarns were also tested for hairiness – and here the test results varied even more widely. Values ranged from below 25% USP to above 95%.
She adds, “Fabric made from yarns with such different hairiness values will never ever look the same, and as these test results demonstrate, spinners testing only yarn evenness are making a potentially serious error. They would clearly be wrong to place any confidence in producing yarns to meet customer needs under these circumstances.”