From the business strategy point of view too, the maximum value addition is possible when we go for supplying finished material as RMG fabric or the Garments. Due to the increase in the demand for clothing, the processed goods are now in large demand.
CHANGE IN TRENDS
There are lots of factors which are responsible for the present day change in scenario of the wet processing of textiles. Good quality at competitive prices is becoming the key factor with trade globalisation. Hence, the wet processing sequence is accordingly being changed, keeping in mind the end objective of obtaining high quality goods at the most competitive prices.
To get the best quality fabric of international standards, one needs to have the best of spinning and weaving technologies employed, before subjecting the fabric to various operations of wet processing. However, for a textile wet processor, it becomes the most challenging task to get the right shades at first time and also at competitive cost with the best quality. The high performance standards expected by the consumer are to be met with, in addition to the adherence to the norms of eco-friendly processing, which is the need today. All these characteristics lead the direction of research in textile wet processing and the various operations actually carried out in the processing industry. Many a times, it has been observed that there is a huge difference in the process sequence to be ideally followed vis-a-vis the one actually practiced at the shopfloor. Otherwise, e.g., how do you explain high twisting of microdenier yarn and weight reducing the fabric made out of it with causticisation process? There are many other examples.
Wet processing can be broadly divided into pretreatment, dyeing, printing and finishing. Irrespective of the various stages of operations falling under the above mentioned classification, every single method followed finds its basis and objective of the following:
.Maintenance of high quality
.Cost effectiveness
.Better performance
.Lower effluents and minimum input cost
.Minimum use of chemicals
.Environment friendly process
.Application of latest machinery which can guarantee the reproducibility of the product once approved.
►► Degumming/Desizing
Although, acid desizing, rot steeping and enzymatic desizing are quite well accepted methods of desizing the fabric containing starch based sizes, different types of amylase base enzymes are available in the market and as its consumption as well as production is increasing day by day, the cost of enzymes is coming down and the processors thus been able to make use of such enzymes, which are quite specific in action with respect to concentration, pH, temperature and do not pose any danger of fiber degradation.
In pretreatment, either the yarn or the fabric requires to be treated with such chemicals that subsequently are turned to be receptive to the dyes and chemicals as well as finishes. In case of silk, most of the quality goods manufacturers degum the silk in the hank form before subjecting it for bleaching and then dyeing. Since, they intend to use these yarns for woven designs; the treatment in the hank form as well as its colouration becomes handy. Besides the age-old method of degumming of silk using Marsellies soap or sometimes 501 soap, nowadays enzyme like Degummase is used to remove the sericin, the cementing agent of the silk fibroin. Many also prefer to remove the sericin to a limited extent, so that the strength of silk yarn is kept intact. Companies
Significance of Supply Chain Management for Brand Development
There is a pressing need of inspiring thinking amid the industry managers and policy drafters so as to facilitate them to produce a well-calculated all-embracing strategy and an action plan for their sustainable development and gainful operations. The concept of creating a powerful "Made in India" brand has been suggested as one of the important strategic initiative by several stakeholders.
The present article aims to underline key sources of problems for the industry and explains all the challenges the industry is facing and likely to face. It also brings up significant matters for competent supply chain management in the textile-apparel-retail network and the function it can perform to overcome all the major barriers to make them competitive worldwide and add largely to develop a high brand impression for the country.
What is happening in the Industry?
The Indian textile and apparel sectors have not only contributed to the national economy regarding direct and indirect employment creation but also raised net foreign exchange earnings. The textile and apparel industry makes up 18 per cent of employment in the industrial sector, 20 per cent of industrial production, 9 per cent of excise duty collections and more than 30 per cent of Indian's total exports.
Because of ample stock of cotton, low-cost labour and flourishing mill sector, India had few competitors in the expanding international textile business during the post-independence decades of the 50s and 60s. But our trade failed to resist the rising competition from some new industrialist nations in a widening world economy and consequently lost market share during 1970s. The 1980s proved a colourful decade in terms of fast evolution for Indian apparel exports, which were assessed at Rs 6500 million in 1981 and Rs 8500 million in 1985. Since exchange value of rupee decreased in 1991 and export-oriented plans were enacted, value of apparel exports escalated to Rs 62823 million in 1991-92, Rs 183896 million in 1998-99 and Rs 254799 million in 2000-01.
Opportunities
Indian apparels made up a small part of less than 3 per cent of total world export of apparel; this indicates ample growth opportunity. India is able to offer a vast local market to its apparel producers. The study of McKinsey reveals that the market size is of Rs 20,000 crores, but only Rs 4,000 crores is dealt with by branded apparel. Therefore, Indian apparel manufacturers have Rs 16,000 crores market, which has been dealt with by the disorganized small size units. The developed nations, which are the landing places for Indian textile products, use textiles in the form of apparel. If Indian apparel manufacturers wish to consolidate their position in markets and capture larger values of the chain, they must move their target to the efficient performance of textile-apparel supply chain system and not look at textile industry separately.
Risk Factors
Indian textile industry was supposed to be influenced by several regulatory, technological and marketing modifications over the next few years. Under the WTO, the export quotas would be discontinued from January 1, 2005. This will launch a fierce competition in this industry from countries like China, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Indonesia, Bangladesh and Vietnam.
For a product line described by fluctuating demand system and seasonality on one hand and highly labours demanding on other, it is essential to have complaisance to maintain stability of the labour force employment from time to time.
Though India has advantages of more than enough low-priced workers, reduced production cost, accessible raw material and a huge domestic market, there are some aspects like infrastructure and government plans that have brought about a wide divide in the economic progress between India and other nations for textile industry in particular.
Strong Points
In proportion to other industries of India, the textile sector is more competitive worldwide. Most of the inputs needed for this sector are available from domestic supplies and necessity of imports and valuable foreign exchange is little.
The Indian apparel-production industry was broadly broken up as knitted hosiery and yarn-dyed, woven apparel. Only 6 percent units out of total firms have more than 50 machines, while 80 percent units are working with 20 machines. The acute decentralisation helped manufacturers keep away from labour issues and the labour associated laws, as well as seasonal variations in business. Even operations became flexible and it gave competence in production.
From the middle of 1990s, production units of larger strength with advanced technology, mainly in association with a joint venture partner were set up. During the same phase, Indian customers could notice easy access of international brands in domestic market, which were produced by Indian garment manufacturers. This aroused the expectancy of intelligent clients and apparel industry did not have any option but to better its functioning for this group of demanding customers. Importers of Indian apparels were by and large happy with price and passionate about the knack to source small production amounts. International garment companies introduce new designs, new craftsmanship, ultra-modern scientific management and also the marketing policies in India. These all can make the competition machinery stronger in order that the industry might obtain more capital for developing new products, new brand names, technology enhancement and human resource training so that market competitiveness can be increased.
like Himatsingka exporting almost 100 per cent of their products - upholstery and curtain materials, have found an enviable position in this business. The Central Silk Board as well as the ministry of textiles are working on improving the quality of silk and training silk reelers so that India can not only increase the silk yield but also improve its share in the silk trade.
Enzymes such as proteases are also used in wool processing. Not only are the scales removed, imparting anti-felting property, but the wool fibre is found to give improved dye uptake. Cotton fabric is normally subjected to desizing and a number of research methods talk about desizing with hydrolytic and oxidative desizing agents, plasma treatment, etc. The rot steeping, acid desizing and enzymatic desizing are the conventional hydrolytic desizing techniques which are widely followed. However, the recent trend is to use the size paste based on acrylic and PVA formulations which are easily washable and the quantity of starch in the size paste is greatly reduced so that BOD in the effluent is accordingly diminished.
Different types of enzymes mainly "amylase based" are in the market, which being concentration specific, pH specific and temperature specific, are most satisfactorily used. Some of the enzymes require sodium and potassium chloride to increase their activities, whereas the heavy metal ions such as mercury, copper, zinc, iron are strong inhibitors for the action of enzymes of amylase type. Although the enzymes - pancreatic, bacterial and malt type work in the range of 6-7, 5-7 and 4.6 - 5.2 pH range and the temperature 40-550, 60-700 and 40-500C respectively, special desizing agent such as Finogene DH 250 N, (Korean company) works in the range of pH 5-9 and the advantage of such enzyme is that the cotton waxes get partially emulsified due to the alkalinity, which can be removed in subsequent operations. Thermozyme, an enzyme stable at high temperature is known to bring about desizing almost instantly at higher temperature.
Oxidising type of desizing agents are energy saving, acting on all the sizes and offer shortening of the process sequence. Sodium bromite and potassium persulphate are quite important oxidative agents.
Scouring
Although soda boil is so far the best method of scouring, the efforts are on to make use of pectinase and lipase together as one shot chemical in which case, it is understood that while pectinase will loosen the hydrophobic waxes due to the hydrolysis of pectins and the lipase can bring about the hydrolysis of waxes.
The persulphate could be incorporated in the scouring process, eliminating separate desizing stages. Simultaneous desizing and scouring can be carried out by padding the cloth in 2-3 gpl potassium persulphate and 40-50 gpl NaOH and subsequently steaming in J box. While desizing can be achieved in 1-3 mins, scouring takes 90 to 120 mins, in J box or 2-10 minutes in vapour locks machines. Of all these methods, acid steeping, enzyme and bromite desizing and simultaneous scouring and desizing with persulphate are the cheapest as far as cost considerations are concerned. As far as scouring operation is concerned, although a number of attempts have been made at scouring the fabric using Lipase type of enzymes to hydrolyse the triglycerides which are hydrophobic in nature, there has been no substitute really worth mentioning to the soda boil, which can give expected absorbency.
The pectinase enzyme is used to hydrolyse the pectins and remove the same from cotton causing loosening of the hydrophobic waxes which are easier to get rid of in subsequent washing. The action of lipase subsequently brings about hydrolysis of such hydrophobic waxes and thus nowadays, the pectinase and lipase are getting increasing importance in the process of scouring. One research study indicates the pretreatment of the fabric with chloroform followed by pectinase treatment. But one can understand the limitation of application as chloroform is used here to dissolve non-cellulosic impurities.
Solvent assisted scouring makes use of five per cent solvent, which is emulsified and also can be coupled with bleaching and desizing. In this case the hydrogen peroxide not only acts as bleaching agent but also as an oxidative desizing agent. In other words, alkaline scouring till today remains the most suitable way of scouring. Solvent scouring is of theoretical importance so far as cotton is concerned. However, in case of silk and wool, solvent such as perchloroethylene is used, provided sophisticated machinery is available for total recycling of the solvent. The carbonisation of wool after solvent treatment is done with H2SO4.
Kier and J boxes are used for scouring of cotton fabric with soda boil at 4-5 per cent on the weight of the fabric with wetting agent upto 3 gpl. Sodium sulphite (about 1%) brings down the scouring time in the pressure boil which otherwise requires 8-12 hours at 30 PSI (1.5-2 Kgs/Cm2). Open width scouring though initially was carried out on the jiggers, now pad roll process can also be used. The recently introduced continuous bleaching range of Benninger is becoming popular although capital investment is high. The small processing units can make use of modern jiggers for scouring, bleaching and dyeing in which the goods weighing upto about 1,400 kg (3,000 mts bottom weight) can be processed.
.Increasing environment consciousness leading to eco-friendly textile processing has driven our R&D efforts in search of safe substitutes for the dyes and finishes.
.The specific needs of the customers such as flame-retardancy or anti-bacterial properties have further created challenges in this field.
.A lot of dynamism is thus going to be apparent in the coming years with efforts to improve market shares.
DYEING
The proper selection of dyes and machines as well as the dyeing aids are the key factors to get right first time products. The shade matching, the production of solid shades and defect free dyeing are the day to day challenges faced by the dyers.
Once the fabric undergoes controlled pretreatments and brought in a ready to dye stage, the dyeing becomes the next challenge to get uniform and consistent shades right at the first attempt (RFT). The proper selection of dyes and machine depends upon number of factors. The first and the topmost is the nature of the fibre, the variety and the quantity of fabric being processed as well as quality standards required. Number of challenges faced by the dyer includes shade matching, production of solid shade and defect free dyeing. With the general knowledge of the nature of the dyestuff and performance properties as well as their applicability on various fibres, the selection of a given class of dye is not a big problem. However, depending upon structure of individual dyes, its chormophores and auxochromes, hues and substantivity differ. e.g. as a class, reactive dyes react with the cellulosic fibres and thus said to be giving vary good performance properties. But they suffer many a times with poor extent of fixation, problem of hydrolysis, sensitivity to metal ions, poor chlorine bleach fastness etc.
The use of salt in reactive dyeing further adds TDS to the effluents. The advancement in this class of dyes are thus aimed at improving their exhaustion and fixation by improving the reactivity and decreasing their sensitivity to temperature and pH variations. HE and ME dyes showing high exhaustion are thus recommended for dyeing of Knit goods, which is carried out on winches where a lot of variation in temperature and pH occur. While the former is homo bi-reactive system, the latter one is hetero bi-reactive system and their fixation claimed to be as high as 85%. The reactive dyes of LS type which make use of low salt and some based on fluorine are increasingly recommended. While dyeing the compound shades, the rate of dyeing as well as compatibility of dyes have to be taken into consideration so that the shades do not go off the tone.
The vat dyes are the costliest class of dyes, although they offer best of performance properties and many a times in polyester/cotton blends, disperse- reactive and disperse-vat are recommended. In such blends selection of disperse dyes is also equally important which are stable to alkali so that, once the polyester component is dyed, the vat pigment mechanically deposited is reduced in alkaline blank vat solution. While the vat dye thus gets fixed on the cotton component the additional reduction clearing treatment is totally eliminated in this case. The recent trend is also to cationise cotton or the cellulosic material and apply the reactive dyes in acidic conditions so that the protonated or cationised cotton adsorbs the reactive dye anions at the enhanced rate and subsequent fixation in alkaline medium gives very high shade build up. Number of quaternary amines and cationising agents are used towards this purpose and in many cases reactive dye systems can eliminate.
the use of salt. This not only reduces, the TDS of the effluent, but also drastically reduces unfixed dye being drained out in the effluent. Polyester fibre dominating the apparel scene, it is but natural that one chooses Disperse dyes. While they are being selected, one needs to take into consideration their energy class, diffusion number, migration rating etc. The dyeing is based on diffusion-controlled mechanism and thus for the compound shades, it is highly necessary that these dyes are selected from the same subclass so that in general the performance properties and shade build up are not drastically affected. Serilene brand of VX dyes of Yorkshire chemicals, UK offers most compatible range of disperse dyes in which case shade prediction and matching become relatively easy and their edge in performance can be apparent from pale to dark shades. Now a days, trend is to shorten dyeing cycles and many a times one bath dyeing of the binary and ternary blends is attempted. Disperse dyes applicable in alkaline conditions are also offered by some of the manufacturers which are most suitable in polyester cotton blends where the cotton component requires alkalinity for application of reactive, vat or sulphur dyes. One of the methods developed makes use of simultaneous disperse-acid dyeing and finishing of polyester/cotton bland .Initially the method was developed for one bath acid dyeing -resin finishing of cotton/cellulosic material.
The selection of acid dye however is quite critical and it should have abstractable-H in its amino group substituent .Finishing agent like DMDHEU gets attracted to cotton to one end while anchoring or holding acid dye molecules on the other end. Dyeing was quite fast and so called non substantive acid dyes can be applied on cotton simultaneously resulting in improvement in crease recovery angles. When the same system is extended to polyester/cotton blend for disperse-acid-dyeing-cum resin finishing from single bath by pad - thermosol technique, it was found that polyester and cotton component can be dyed with respective dyes, and heat-setting as well as finishing take place almost simultaneously. Washing- off problem in reactive dyes is always a challenging task which impairs the fastness properties of the dyes if hydrolysed dye is not fully washed out. Though non-ionic detergent is recommended for the same, the recently introduced Bio rinsing making use of Bylase RP / Assist RP, the enzyme which decolorises selectively the hydrolysed dyestuff from the fabric and also the unfixed reactive dyestuff in unexhausted bath provides a great promise. This reduces the consumption of water, energy and time as it is claimed to be quite efficient washing- off process. The use of cationic dye-fixing agent is quite common in the case of direct dyed material which is obvious as they have very high solubility in water imparting poor wash fastness properties. However, due to the presence of unfixed hydrolysed dye on the fabric as a result of incomplete washing-off, it becomes essential even in case of the reactive dyed material, to subject it for the treatment of cationic dye fixing agent. The hydrolysed dye acting as a direct dye being held on the fabric by hydrogen bonding, complexes with cationic dye fixing agent and brings about fixation of dye, improving its wet rubbing fastness at least by half a grade.
In case of garment dyeing, in case of the post finishing process, reactive dyes can be used provided the garments so finished are already subjected during finishing with certain nitrogen containing additives. These additives used during finishing render the dyeability to the finished garment and upto about 85% dyeability can be regained even after finishing the garment at the intermediate level, which otherwise is known for displaying only 15-20% dyeability. This phenomenon of additives improving the finished goods dyeability works similar to process of Cationisation and requires almost similar conditions as used in dyeing of cationised cotton.
From the environment point of view the general trend is to make use of non-dusting powders of the dye and thus granules are preferred to dusting powders. Higher concentrates of dyes are also used to decrease the volume being handled. As the automation is increasingly accepted and high quality standards become pivotal part of the business, the most modern machines with auto dispensing systems are coming in use .To cater to such modern machine with colour kitchen and auto dispensing systems, liquid dyes become an important and essential formulation. Presently the Dispersol and Procion T dyes are supplied in liquid formulation and so also some of the soluble sulphur dyes. However, very soon most of the dyestuffs would be required to be supplied in liquid formulation, so that most modern automatic and microprocessor based systems of dyeing can be made use of, especially in which case the shade reproducibility is of utmost importance. The Procion T dyes are acid fixable liquid reactive dyes based on phosphoric acid condensation products and they also carry the potential of making the fabric flame retardant while being the integral part of the fabric.
Fasciating area of disperse dye chemistry has been the development of very high value speciality products giving brilliant fluorescent dyes. Zeneca previously known as ICI has introduced di-ester, thiophene and benzo di furanone high fastness dispersal dyes. Benzo di furanone structure gives more brilliant shades as compared to normally subdued shades observed in azo and anthraquinone disperse dyes. They obviate the need for the reduction clearing and are used in exhaust and continuous dyeing. There is also a need to have very high light fast disperse dyes may be of the order of '8' specifically in case of upholstery used in automotive industry. As far as micro denier polyester fibres dyeing is concerned, there has been a need to select those disperse dyes which
can give relatively better fastness on micro denier, since the increased surface area of micro denier fibre normally tends to not only give lighter shades making it essential to use more amount of dye, but also inferior fastness properties. The problem of thermomigration, which is common on finished polyester, becomes more severe in the case of micro denier variety and rubbing fastness, wet fastness and light fastness are deteriorated in this variety. Such garments when washed with garments made of nylon gives cross staining distinctly visible to human eye. This problem has initiated dyestuff manufacturers to come up with high wet fast disperse dyes.
One more technology which is still on the pilot scale is dyeing of polyester with super critical CO2. In this case under very high pressure CO2 is liquefied (310C, 74 Bar) in which disperse dye dissolves and is used for dyeing of synthetic fibre. The liquid CO2 has the advantage of very high diffusibility and it has very low viscosity than any normal liquid. The dyeing is thus more smooth and uniform and once it is over, by releasing the pressure the liquid CO2 converts into gas and unused dye powder can be separately collected. This totally non-aqueous system has tremendous promise as far as eco-friendly processing is concerned.
We know that most of the dyes based on objectionable banned amines are already taken out from the market and hence the use of eco-friendly dyes becomes obvious expectation of every one.
In case of processing of denim, indigo dye is used on large scale. Heavy varieties of cotton trousers are dyed with cheaper substitutes such as sulphur dyes and sulphur black is one of the most important single dye, being used in the industry. The environmentally objectionable sodium sulphide is totally replaced by some of the processors and the product called Hydrol is used in its place, which is obtained from the molasses. The use of natural dyes is also becoming increasingly popular. However, variation in colour content of raw materials, its tedious extraction process and requirement of use of metallic mordants limit their application. However certain portion of textile can definitely be dyed with natural dyes and they could supplement in building the market share along with synthetics dyes.
In the textile processing, the new fibres which are introduced include Tencel, (Lyocell), Modal and Lycra. Tencel and Lyocell are said to be more eco-friendly since N-methyl morpholine oxide the solvent used here is totally recovered from the system and can be reused. Tencel has very high wet strength retention property unlike viscose. The application of Lycra has opened the new area in the manufacture of elastic fabrics offering exceptionally high comfort properties. Most of the time the Lycra is undyed but depending upon its proportion one could subject it also for dyeing. At UICT, we have studied the processing of all these fibres in much detail.
Printing is a complex process and involves proper selection of thickening paste and its method of preparation, selection of dye, its fixation, after treatment and drying. Choice of thickener depends on colour, brilliance of shade, penetration, levelness of print, ease of preparation of stock thickening, film strength, storage stability compatibility with dyestuffs and auxiliaries and washability as well as the cost. From the ecology point of view, pentachlorophenol which is used as preservative for thickener is being objected to and substitutes like sodium silico fluoride though expensive is recommended. Some of the companies have also come out with natural preservatives. The rheological properties of thickeners are of great importance as every thickener due to its pseudo plastic behaviour has definite shear thinning index and it is essential that we work for the printing operation in a range where the rate of shear of a thickener gives almost no change in its viscosity.
The four stages of printing, which consists of designing, engraving, sampling and printing have shown tremendous evolution with modern technology such as Computer Added Design (CAD) software. Computer Aided Engraving (CAE) is possible so also Computer Aided Colouring (CAC). By choosing the multiple colours on CAC, designs can be shown getting the print on the fabric using inkjet printer. This enables the customer to see how the final printed fabric will look like and make his decision. Of the various printing machines available, flat bed printing machine- semiautomatic and fully automatic and the rotary screen-printing machines are much in vogue. Last ITME showed rotary printing machine having rotary screen around the big central cylinder just resembling that of conventional roller printing machine. The advantages of screen printing (either rotary or flat bed) need not be over emphasised versus that of block printing or roller printing. The substitution of sodium silicate and sodium alginate in reactive printing, kerosene and water emulsion with synthetic thickener in pigment printing are the challenges still to be fully met with in the field of printing.
The bubble jet textile printing developed by Cannon Company has also tremendous future in the coming years.
The application of transfer printing received the limited response earlier. However, this technology is very much in vogue as far as garment printing is concerned. The electro photography makes use of charged transfer mechanism in which case the coated drums surface is charged in a dark light. The laser conducts away this charge in a non-image area. The powdered ink gets deposited on this drum, which is then subsequently transferred to the paper or the fabric below which oppositely charged surface is maintained. The colours which are sensitive to temperature known as thermotropic colours, those sensitive to moisture known as solvatochlroic colours and the pressure sensitive colours will also have increasing demand for creating fancy designs and will receive more impetus from fashion industry.
Having said about flat-bed and rotary screen-printing, it is very important to note that in order to allow the customer to have broader choice; the lot size of the print is always going to be smaller and smaller. The new fashion trends and psychology of the people not only demand newer and attractive designs and motifs, but more so is exclusiveness of the designs and garments which finally rules the customer in making the decision of purchase. It is here, the machines offering highest degree of flexibility in terms of designs, colour combinations, fabric variety as well as lot size (small to large) are actually going to rule the market. In this highly customer dominated market this trend is at least going to persist for next decade.
FINISHINGFinishing being the final processing stage fabric requires utmost attention and now a day functional finishes are thus becoming increasingly important for high value fabrics. Some of the finishes which are increasingly being used include:
.Wrinkle free/Durable press/easy care finish
.Stone wash or enzyme wash/biofinishing
.Softeners giving better resiliency, bouncy effect and sometimes hydrophilicity
.Water proof/stain repellant but breathable finishes
.Antimicrobial/deodorant finishes
.Flame retardant finishes
.Perfumed textiles
.Super absorbent polymer finish
In case of wrinkle free finishes, the two roots are followed: Pre-cure and Post-cure. While the procure is followed for the fabric which do not require pleats, the post cure in which pad dry application is done at the mill level and after the garment is made, the curing is carried out making the pleats permanent.
In the case of garment finishing, the garments are dipped in the finishing chemicals with material to liquor ratio 1:5 and they are tumbled for 20 mins and subjected for hydroextraction. They are then dried at 700C for 10-12% moisture and then ironed or steam pressed to set the creases at the desired places and cured at 150-1600C for 8-10 minutes. Another method is tumbling the garments and the finishing chemical is sprayed on it. Thus it uses very limited amount of resin. The softeners with extra hydrophilicity are more important from the point of view of terry towels and also fabrics, which are synthetic. By hydrophilic nature of the finish the comfort properties are improved. Biopolishing is widely accepted as it gives worn- out look and also the softness. In case of terry towels or some garments, subjecting the products to biopolishing gives permanent softness.
Antimicrobial finishes are also becoming increasingly important from the point of view of improving the durability of the expensive fabrics like silk and wool and also in case of intimate garments. Not only the finish inhibits the growth of the micro-organisms, but also avoids the foul smell and acts as deodorant. Encapsulated perfume if applied in such formulation will be able to give value added products. The general trend of substituting the formaldehyde finishes with non formaldehyde based finishes still continues to be a challenge and polycarboxylic acids are looked as possible substitutes. There is increase in tendency to make use of mechanical finishes such as calendaring, comprehensive shrinkage (sanforizing), emarizing, etc. The later one gives the peach skin effect which is also quite common in the fashion market.
Wet processing of textile involves a number of complex variables and a lot depends on the skilled manpower in addition to the modern machines, unlike spinning and weaving sector, where most modern machines play vital role. Hence, proper understanding of the nature of fibres, dyes, auxiliaries, and the technology of processing becomes important, to be able to select the most economical and suitable "dye- finish- fibre- machine system" so that high quality fabric with best of performance properties, at most competitive price can be manufactured, consistently. It is here the documentation of all our variables and process sequences in addition to ensuring of standard quality of raw materials becomes highly essential. Only then we can have competitive edge to withstand the fierce international competition.
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