Functional Garments, Garment Designing, Simulated Model

By: Dr. Bhanu Patel and Dr. B. N. Chaulkar

Abstract:

Garment designing for humble causethat is for physically challenged is a challengingtask. Garmentswere designed using woven and knitted textiles alongwith functional design features having disability on upper limbs. These designs were logically studied on simulated model in a laboratory. Further to find out its comfortvalue subjects were asked to put on/off thegarments and responses were noted.

Key words: Functional features,simulated model, Knitted and woven textiles.

Introduction

Due to technological advancement and improved standard of living world hasbecome competitive. To cope with the pace of the fast moving progressive world people are always on the move. This race may some times lead to accidents, the consequences being limb amputation, an unfortunate by product of present life style.

In the Case of upper limb/s disability, upper garments as well as lower garment design featureshas to be taken care off. As with the help of upper limbs, one can put on/off the upper as wellas lower garments. Self help garments with functional design features would help themto become independent, so as to gain self confidence.

Physical disability on upper limbs includes the disability up to palm, wrist elbow or armpit level on, arms, may be due to diseases or accident. Garment with functionalfeature would help them to become independent inusing their personal clothing.

In the research simulatedmodel was used in laboratory as physically disabled subject. This model of a boy with detachable limbs, was first made in a laboratory and using textile material like coir, muslin, cotton and knitted. This was to avoid sympathy emotional involvement to words subjectsand to carryoutthe work objectively.

Experimental procedure

Garment designing for physically handicapped hasbeen studied bysurveys or case studies. In this study simulated models with detachable limbs weremade and garmentdesign experiments were carried out, considering their clothing needs. Three garments in each upper and lower incorporating functional design features were made using woven and knitted textiles.

Clothing needs of upper limb disabled boy were studied through observation.

Clothing needs for physical disability onupper limbs of a boy are to have features

For putting on/taking off the garment by self or with little assistants.
To design for both the upper as well as lower garment. (that is T-shirt and trouser for a boy using comfort giving textiles)
For independence handling in personal clothing, or handling with little assistance.
To make accessory in garment for the assisting person in putting or on taking off the garments for a boy.
To improve aesthetic appeal of the dress.
The fabric should be comfortable.

Textiles used

Physical properties of textiles used were studied. These were wt/unit area stiffness as bending length and compressible thickness.

For making the garment designs, cotton and cotton blends of woven and knitted fabrics were used.

These are shown in tables 1,2 and 3.

Design experiments on simulated model of a boy

Three garment designs were finally studied after making few design variation, experiments were studied logically on model by converting the models into upper limb disabled and putting on/off the garments, upper as well as lower for a boy model.

Physical disability at upper limbs of a boy

A simulated model of a boy having physical disability at upper limbs is shown in Fig. 1.

The functional needs of clothing considered as:

Self-help in putting-on/off one's clothing with little assistance.

Garments and features:

T-shirts and trousers as upper and lower garments with three variations in designs were considered.

Functional features of T shirt were three a, b and c, namely:

Velcro fasteners on shoulder, center front half and zip fastener from center front to side seam at chest level.

Velcro fastener on seam line of raglan sleeve in front.

Velcro fastener on extended shoulder seam on line on sleeves and centre front half closure.

The functional features of trousers were a, b, and c, namely,

Stud button on waist band and Velcro on elasticized shoulder straps.

Velcro on waist band and zip closure on both the side seems of trouser from waist to hip level.

Velcro fasteners on fly.
Elasticized shoulder straps

The bib has Velcro fasteners attached to trouser.

One side seam zip closure.
Elasticized strap on shoulder.

(Snap fastener at the hemline of the trouser to reinforce the feature.)

General features

At the back of the trouser elasticized waist band was used. Small patch pockets at knee level on all trousers were used to pull the trouser down with help of toe & finger of foot. The bottom of the trouser, was of medium width. 67:33 PC was used for trouser and 100% C knitted pique was used for making of 'T' shirts.

Results and discussion

Results have been presented as physical properties of textiles, assessment of the functional features of the garments on the models, and comparison of the results as on model and of subject.

Simulated model of a boy having physical disability on upper limbs and garments with functional design features closed and open has been shown in Plate 1 and assessment there for as 1,2,3 by manipulation of garment with feature is tabulated in tables 6 and 7 as rank scores 1, 2, 3. (Rank score = 1 - Very Good, 2 - Good, 3 - Satisfactory)

Physical properties of textiles used

The physical properties of textiles used are illustrated in tables 4 and 5.

Upper garment T-shirt

All the three T-shirts had short or extended sleeves. The closures were designed in such a way that they can be operated by mouth or teeth. So the location of closures were on shoulder line, diagonal along with front raglan sleeve line and also on centre front line using Velcro and zip as fasteners.

As the physical disability was at upper limbs, the functional design features were to be incorporated on upper garment, that is T-shirt and on lower garment, which is Trouser.

The weakness being in the upper limb, mouth was to be used for the purpose of closure or opening of the garment, thus features for both upper as well as lower garment were needed. Shown in plate no. 2, 3 and 4.

100% cotton knitted fabric was used for making T shirts. This was used as it stretches, as per bodily movement and pique (fabric const.) helps to retain the shape of the fabric.

Lower garment - Trouser

All the three trousers were designed in such a way that a child with disability on upper limbs needs minimum help in taking off or in wearing the trousers.

All the three trousers had elasticized waist band at the back to facilitate in use. These trousers also had patch pocket on or around knee level helped to pull the trousers down with the help of toes while removing it. Elasticized shoulder straps helped them to hold the trousers.

The wearer can remove them off the shoulder with the help of mouth, as well as can put them on the shoulder. Stud button on waist band were useful to the person who helps them.

Comparison of results as on simulated model and of a subject of a boy

An attempt has been made to correlate rank scores obtained from laboratory experiments on model of a boy with upper limb disability and that of a available subject.

The results are graphically presented in bar graphs 1 and 2.

For a boy having upper limb disability:

Textile:

Combination of woven and knitted fabrics of light weight, soft and pliable found to be comfortable. Knitted fabric stretches as per bodily movement and pique (fabric construction) helped to retain the shape of the garment.

Upper garment functional design features:

In 'T' shirts for a boy, shoulder lines were extended on sleeves or drop shoulder with Velcro fasteners. For additional fullness half front opening was helpful. Across front or diagonal across front plackets with Velcro and zip fasteners gave comfort to the user.

Lower garment functional design features:

For Trouser of the boy, in case of physical disability on upper limbs the elasticized straps on shoulder from waist, back to front on trousers for a boy was found to be comfortable to put on and slip off from the shoulders with the help of mouth and with little assistance.

These used to hold the garment at waist level comfortably. The trousers had stud buttons on waist and Velcro on fly. Zip closure on side seam from waist to hip level gave additional room to facilitate to take off the garment.

Garment designs:

Garment designs were found to be comfortable and that of similar to physically normal people.

References

Anon, "A strategic model for functional protective clothing" National Textile Centre, U.S.A. New Cloth Market, May 2004, p 31-35.

Behra B. K., Kathpalia G., Agrawal A. "Effects of Various factors on handle and comfort" Men's summer suiting fabrics. The Indian Textile Journal, Jan. 1998, p 26-31.

Ganguly D. Clothes to the heart SAVY Oct. 1999, p 56-58.

Horn M. J. "Second Skin" An interdisciplinary study of clothing (Second ed.), Houghton Mifflin Company Boston, 1975, p 5, 6, 304, 316.

Tawawala B. "Clothing for the physically handicapped" Unpublished Ph.D. thesis, M. S. University Baroda 1982.

Winifred A. "Fabrics, Form and flat pattern cutting" Blackwell 2001 (Indian ed.), p 20-28.

Appendix:

About the Authors:

Dr. Bhanu Patel is associated with Textile & Clothing Department, S. M. Patel College of Home Science, Sardar Patel University, Vallabh Vidyanagar, India.