Striped clothes have always attracted people's attention both positive, and negative. Today, when medieval prejudices are far behind, designers say that stripe is more than ever extra-fashionable and actual. Indeed, stripe itself is very original and can create various optical illusions in a costume.
"Optical illusion" has been using in clothes for a long time. Such as false shoulders, high waistline or puffed skirt. The other way to use the optical illusions is creation of "op-art" style clothes which demands geometrically exact coupling of lines, stripes, plaids, and also transformation of a plane of a fabric into illusory three-dimensional space.
There is a set of various effects with stripe allowing to devise these visual illusions and more. For this reason the necessity of developing the classification of stripe effects, that will allow quickly and easily them to create, occurred.
The review of models in fashion magazines shows that often cutting of fabrics is made without parameters of a pattern of fabric. In literature; striped and checked fabrics are named "difficult". The reason is that rules of constructive modelling for models with various designs of stripes and plaids are insufficiently deeply studied and described.
The problem of arrangement of construction elements (such as tucks, seams, edges of details) is to be solved at the stage of constructive modelling of garments made of striped or checked fabrics. Special attention should be paid to such form-building element as the tuck. The tuck transfer makes according to the developed classification which takes into account such important properties of the pattern of the cloth as position of an axis of symmetry of drawing at exact match of stripes along the sides of the tuck, or presence of an active stripe in the pattern at the arrangement of a stripe along one side of the tuck.
While editing the position of the elements of design special value belongs to the hatch corresponding to the swatch. The hatch of details of clothes' design is not typical as the hatch of cuts in mechanical engineering or architecture since the angle of its inclination depends on many factors and its rounding off with any accuracy of signs in decimal places of degrees will give a deflection of the hatch from the lines found in the construction.
Therefore the technology which raises accuracy of applying the hatch to 100% has been developed. The essence is in turning the detail with the basic hatch line (BHL) so that the BHL orients horizontally or vertically.
Acceleration of the process of the hatch achieves due to the following example. The segments of the decomposed detail with the "umbrella" effect don't have to be taken to pieces and then re-gathered with the turn in the initial position. The hatch separately applies on each segment with the turn of all the detail on required for this segment's angle.
While applied hatch visualizes all inaccuracies of the position of the elements of the design connected with the repeat of fabric and the size of the garment it allows to eliminate defects in the future product in time. Thus, correctly transferred tuck in the garment with vertical stripes and certain repeat does not get on the edge of active stripe. Necessary parallel transfer of the tuck according to the repeat of the pattern will entail correction of position of other elements of the construction.
In case of creating the custom library of hatch patterns the method of program description of patterns of fabrics has been studied and hatches loaded in AutoCAD for work with constructions have been created. In dependence on designing effects some extra stages can forego applying a hatch. Thus, the "umbrella" effect demands making segmentation from one or two centers with subsequent applying the directing line of the hatch and in the end hatching of all the parts.
The design of garments with the "slope angle" effect, where stripes match on side seams or other divisions, should be made in a straight silhouette, and its width at the hip line has to be multiple to the size of the diagonal repeat measured across the intersection of stripes of weft repeat with the hip line or the bottom line. To satisfy all these conditions methods have been devised and calculations have been executed.
Thereby, in the issue of researches in process of designing of constructions of garments made of striped or checked fabrics its basic stages have been revealed and the algorithm has been developed. This algorithm allows to find the optimum solution according to a model sketch and to consider all design stages eliminating defects causing mismatch of stripes in the construction.
About the Authors:
The authors are associated with Moscow State University of Design and Technology. The presentation is prepared by: Z.E. Bruskina, under the guidance of the Supervisor; V.A. Masalova