Article displays results of the various female figures formresearch at the terms of parametric information that is necessary for clothesdesign in the three-dimensional environment.


Keywords: cross-section sections of the person figure, anellipse, forward-back and cross-section sections of an ellipse, mathematicalmodel of a figure, the equations of a figure surface, the equations of agarment surface , 3D-design.


Fashion industry before market relations has been focused onthe garment manufacture for a typical constitution figures. Frequency ofoccurrence of such figures among adult population is insignificant. Thereforeonly 1/3 of the adult consumers can be furnished by clothes of industrialproduction with the high quality fit.


For the individual consumer needs satisfaction majority ofthe modern firms whenever possible combine manufacture with address designmethods.


The address design approach is used basically at planeconstruction design and does not involve a full variety of consumers figures.Often firms manufacture garments for certain group of consumers because theuniform garment design technique for the figures different from the typical isabsent. Lack of the visualization elements of the finished garment on concretenot typical figures does not allow user estimate the appearance of the endmodel.


Engineering of the virtual three-dimensional modelsrepresentation system, as transitive stage from the art sketch to theconstruction design, can become the decision of this problem. Now developmentof the automated methods of the projected garment volume representation areactively conducted, also solved questions of the models sketch dataformalization and transition from the sketch to the construction.


Lack of the information, that high-grade featuresvolume-spatial external form of the person, configuration of the garmentsform and surface plasticity formation according to the definite figures of theconcrete customers, leads to the inaccurate display of the models sketchduring its realization in the garment.


Development of the automated clothing method of the concreteconsumer allows realization possibilities of address design in the conditionsof the industrial production, improves design process from the creation ofaesthetically expressive models point of view.


Nowadays at this direction of investigations on chair ofTechnology of sewing manufacture of the Moscow State University of Design andTechnology research development of a persons body surface for the purpose ofcreation of the parametrical virtual dummy construction module takes place.


During development of the parametrical persons figuresurface description the set of the dimensional features, necessary for thefigure volume display, defines. As well ways of the information about figuresurface reception selects, laws of a parity of various parameters of a bodycome to light.


While parametrical description development the simplifiedthree-dimensional persons figure model is represented by the shape of eightsegments: a head, the top and bottom part of a trunk, a shoulder, a forearm, abrush, a hip, a shin, a foot.


 

Nowadays the bottom part of a trunk is extensively investigates. It was established that cross-section sections of the bottom part of a trunk can be approximated by such geometrical figure as ellipse that describes in length, longitudinal and cross-section radiuses. Thus longitudinal and cross-section radiuses corresponds to the projective dimensional features of the figure. The length of an ellipse corresponds to the dimensional feature, describing the grasp of the figure on the chosen section (fig. 1).



The mathematical model of the bottom part of a trunk of a female figure is described by following values (fig. 2):

L16 Length of an ellipse cut at the waistline level,


rпзп16 Front back forward radius of an ellipse at the waistline level cut,


rпзз16 Front back back radius of an ellipse at the waistline level cut,


rпоп16 Cross-section radius of an ellipse at the waistline level cut,


L19 Length of an ellipse section at the hips line level cut,


rпзп19 Front back forward radius of an ellipse at the hips line level cut,


rпзз19 Front back back radius of an ellipse at the hips line level cut,


rпзз19 Cross-section radius of an ellipse at the hips line level cut.

 

Following dimensional features become the initial data for mathematical model construction:


Т16 A waist circumference;


T95 Front back diameter of a waist;


T55 Cross-section diameter of a waist;


Т19 A circumference of hips with the account выступания a stomach;


T112 Front back diameter of a circumference of hips with the account выступания a stomach;


T56.1 Cross-section diameter of hips


T79.1 Depth of a waist the fourth (stomach projection concerning a deflection on a waistline);


T79 Depth of a waist the second (buttocks projection concerning a deflection on a waistline);


T79.2 Depth of a waist the sixth (a lateral surface of a hip projection concerning a deflection on a waistline).


Thus values and dimensional features correspond the following way:


L16 = Т16 ;


rпзп16 + rпзз16 = T95 ;


rпоп16 * 2 = T55 ;


L19 = Т19 ;


rпзп19 + rпзз19= T112 ;


rпоп19 * 2 = T56.1 .


Relations of front back and cross-section diameters of a waist and hips circumferences correspond to the dimensional features that characterize concrete figure:


rпзп19 rпзп16 = T79.1 ;


rпзз19 rпзз16 = T79 ;


rпоп19 rпоп16 = T79.2 .


Now on TSI chair the scientific researches directed to the mathematical equations development, that describes various sections of a surface of female figures of a typical and not typical constitution take place. The figure mathematical model is a basis for the external garments form design. The figure mathematical model on a virtual dummy will be described the same way as the mathematical model of a dummy with the account of distribution of allowance values, which should be considered in the external garments form features.


Therefore nowadays laws of distribution of various allowance values on a breast circumference, waist circumference and hips circumference are investigated. The equations that describe garments surface volume, should correspond to the concrete figure surface equations with the adjust for front back and cross-section cut radiuses , that for the garment surface equation should include allowance values.


Three-dimensional external garments form design method will create basis for the CAD module Virtual fit further development, that will release garments design process from a labour-consuming and material-intensive stage of prototyping.