Though mens apparel in India was expected to increase at a CAGR of 14.1% for the period 2008-2010, there was a slight dip
in the export growth of mens shirt for the period Jan-March 2010, declining
from 182.82 in 2009 to 149.88 million Euros in terms of value to EU countries.
This was primarily due to the economic meltdown
and competition from giants like China, cheap labour available in Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia. Also, Sri Lanka, technologically advanced, had duty free advantage
to Bangladesh, posing a major threat to India. The Indian domestic market has
no doubt posted a very strong growth in the shirt segment. Mens shirts market
in India is valued at Rs.16, 900 crore, which is 36 per cent of the total mens
wear market in the country. This market is growing at a CAGR of 9 per cent and
is expected to reach Rs.24, 100 crore by 2012. In terms of volume, the mens
shirts market is 37.5 crore pieces, which is 23.2 per cent of the total mens
wear market. It is expected to grow to 43.9 crore pieces by 2012.
* Expected (All
numbers in Crores)
of the manufacturers/ exporters have made themselves indispensable to the
buyers by making new style developments, which has led to increase in their
sales volumes from India. Market is looking better today as growth of 10% to
20% has been seen by most of the players and they are optimistic of a promising
year ahead. This is primarily due to the fact that Indian makers have accepted
the challenges of the competitive market and are offering the best sourcing
solutions to their buyers. Further Indias political stability and economic
resilience even in the face of global recession has made a strong impact in the
world economy. Reducing MOQ and working on small orders for even 500 pieces is
said to be a crucial factor in enabling the Indian suppliers to withstand the
This segment of the mens apparel industry has the major chunk of its export market
in the European countries, i.e. Germany, UK, Spain and France. USA, Latin American and Middle East countries are the other important markets for the India made mens shirts. The major manufacturing hubs for mens shirt in India are Chennai (the leading center), followed by Bangalore, Tirupur, Mumbai and Delhi & NCR
regions. Jaipur is emerging as a fast growing hub also.
Design patterns have undergone a complete change
as the new styling has drifted more towards unisex and feminine look for mens
shirt. The new trends are based on wild and adventurous themes with mix n match
pattern for the casual models and embroidered designs for the designer models.
Mix n match of fabric, like the checks, stripes and floral matched with plain
fabric, stitching and value addition have given a modern and bold look for most
of the companies mens shirt range. They include piping on sleeves, multi-stitching,
contrast bands on collars and sleeves.
Some designs carry dart cut or the Princess seam
and curved bottom hemline depicting the feminine touch. Raw edged hemline and
small pockets accentuate the hip hot look to the shirts. Casual shirts having
loops both on the roll on sleeves and shoulders are doing well. Multi pockets usage
on the front panels and the sleeves is making a strong appeal.
Embroidery is making a big mark in the design
trend, light & heavy embroidery adorn the mens designer and fashion
shirts. Tunic style shirts are showing the female look, enhancing the unisex
trend dominating the mens shirts category. Bellow pockets and new styled
pockets add to the casual free spirit look sought by the males. Contrast collar
bands, double layered collars, contrast colors stitching, foil & flock, raw
edges on the bottom-line and arm holes give a vintage and funky look, while plackets
with extension etc are all the updated trends. Styling with different panel cuts, stitching;
embossed buttons and pockets are the latest design executions.
Among washes, the suppliers are offering heavy
washes, soft enzyme, silicon, wall blast, paper touch, heavy wash, dip dyed
(with double toned colors) and rubber washes to add to the design features.
Players have introduced many innovative washes for the garments, inspired by
the international fashion trends, like the leather wash, oil wash, spray effect
wash, bio enzyme wash,
anti static wash, sand wash, peach wash and perfume wash.
Fabric base are mainly cotton and cotton blends
in woven, solids in 40/40s, 120/64, 50/50s, 170/72, 60/60s and 92/88, stripes
in 260/40s, 280/40s, yarn dyed in 40/40s, 2/40, checks, floral, dobby and
jacquard. Besides, linen 60s, poplins, voiles and pleated fabrics are regular
materials for mens shirt with elite look designs. Unigender fabrics such as gauze,
crepe, cotton slubs and textured fabrics are preferred by men for their soft
and convenient touch, as the latest trends. Organic
cotton, which is costlier by nearly 35% to 40% to the normal cotton, is now
extensively preferred for the high-end shirts.
Basic white, neon colors, dirty look, pastel,
beige, lilac, daylight yellow, white and olive are the most favoured color
choices for mens shirt category. However, most of the manufacturers are
offering customary colors, a lot of tie-dye and over dyed colors on demand.
Color themes are seasonal and vary country to country.
in the case of other apparels in India, there has been a hike in the prices of
mens shirt also and this has attributed to the high cost of raw cotton,
threads, other raw materials and the increase in transportation, power and
labor costs. The segment can be categorized into three price slabs. The low end
mens shirt falls in the price bracket of 4.0 $ to 6.0 $, the midrange placed
at 6.0 to 8.0 $ and the high-end shirts range starting from 8.0 $ going up to 15.0
Price Mens Shirt
Low end price
Medium term Price
High end price Range
4.0 to 7.0 US$
7.0 to 14.0 US$
15 US$ & above
The price differences arise from the choice of
fabric constructions and textures, prints variation, depending upon the
printing technique, cuts and stitching details. Other factors, which impact the
price level are the type of washes and the value additions provided to the
garment. They depend upon the embroidery work, metal studs or the buttons
design and quality. In some cases, players also use real Swarovski for high-end
The industry faces a lot of challenges from
within, problems such the lack of fully advanced mechanism of production by
most of the small and midrange players, power situation, labor laws and fabric
sourcing. To overcome logistics and infrastructural problems that hamper growth,
it is important to be flexible for smaller quantities, follow modular systems
and implement lean manufacturing practices and conveyor systems. Labor laws
need to be amended, power situation to be improved and new fabric mills need to
The design innovations and their executions are supported by the manufacturers
in house designing and production capability. Some of the big companies are fully
equipped with in-house facility, right from fabric procurement stage, to design
development, manufacturing, QC facilities and packaging. They are adhering to
the international quality norms of being eco-friendly, with efficient solutions
to waste materials and
the usage of azo free dyes and pigment prints.
The industry hopes to see a revival by 2010-2011 and Indian manufacturers are working
on innovative fabrics (organic cotton), textures, washes, wrinkle free finish,
color fastness and competitive prices. Mens shirts are today identified more
as a global fusion of styles made in Indian sourced fabric.
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