The fully Fashioned Sweaterscan be classified in five different shapes, Set-in Sleeve, Straight, Raglan,Saddle Shoulder and Classic. Examples of these styles are given in picturesgiven below. The beauty of the garment lies in the accurate fitting of the unionpoints of front back and sleeve. The common mistake is that most of the times, asthese panels knitted and not woven, the loops compensate for the deficienciesof the shapes of front, back and sleeves. The garment may measure accuratelybut the expert eye will always know that because of the inaccuracy of panels,the stitches or knit loops do get distorted and are not aligned any more. Avery nicely made garment when placed on a table shall have all the courses andwhales in straight lines, which at times becomes very difficult to achieve andthe arms of the sweater shall extend at the same angle as that of the shoulderslope. The sleeves shall not puff out at the shoulder joint nor shall they cavein. Therefore the most important measurement in a sweater is the slope of thearm hole as the angle so created shall be the angle of the sleeve joint aswell. Surprisingly the shoulder slope is not given the due respect by theknitters that it demands.
The calculations of knitting specifications are based oncombination of simple mathematics and the Pythagoras theorem of Geometry. Inmost of the cases the dimensions given by the customer are as given under intwo different sets, the first one where the sleeve length is given as undersleeve length this practice is more common in UK and the other in which thesleeve length is given for the upper part of the sleeve.
About the Author
Theauthor is the Executive Director of Sportking Institute of FashionTechnology, Ludhiana and has working experience of over thirty years inknitting. He is also a qualified professional in Total Quality Management,Kaizen and Lean Production. He has his own company in the name and styleof M/s Techknit Overseas Pvt. Ltd. and has worked as Indian agent of the topthree computerized flat bed knitting machine manufacturers for many years.Currently he also looks after the interests of Toyota Tsusho India Pvt.Ltd. an Associate Company of the famous Toyota Automobile Company of Japan for Punjab and surrounding areas. He is also working as a Marketing Consultant for a ChineseMachinery Manufacturing Company and as TQM consultant for a few KnitwearCompanies.
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