Cutting & sewing is the most important task of making garments product. If sewing is not done properly in the fabric according to the thread count then possibility for the garment to be damaged is more. Selection of correct sewing thread count is not always easy and requires a very clear conception about the fabric is to be sewn. It is widely known that sewing thread count is selected on the basis of the GSM of a fabric. However it seems that, this is not very logical. Because two fabrics can have same GSM, one is produced from coarser thread but less EPI & PPI while the other is produced with finer yarn but more EPI & PPI.

If sewing thread count is chosen on the basis of GSM then same sewing thread will be used to sew the above mentioned two fabrics but in reality that may be wrong. The result shows that count of sewing thread affects the sewing performance significantly. By this paper we want to find out the real effect of various types of thread count on various types of fabric. As for reason various types of EPI, PPI and GSM of five types of fabrics ,100% Polyester sewing thread and 18 needle size, single needle lock stitch Juki machine and five selected stitch length dials are used. Some grading systems are used on the respect of sewing quality, such as, poor, average, good, better and excellent. Grading depends on some criteria of sewing performance.

Keywords: Lock stitch, sewing thread, thread count, GSM, sewing performance.

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The author is associated with Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, Dhaka.