Barabanki handloom cluster produces wide range of products, which are highly demanded worldwide as well as in domestic markets. It is the heart of Zari and Applique cut- work.


Barabanki Cluster falls under Uttar Pradesh State in Barabanki district. There are around 50,000 weavers and 20,000 looms at Barabanki and adjoining area. In addition, there are number of traders and auxiliary support providers. The annual turnover of Barabanki cluster is projected to be Rs. 150 Crore. The main products are Scarves, Shawls and Stoles, which have a good export market. The mobilization of resources and labour is gaining impetus producing refined results day by day.

 
Raw Materials:

Basic Raw Material: Silk, zari, cotton, polyester, jacquard loom, dori, etc.

Decorative Material: Peacock feathers

Coloring Material: Bukani (colour powder)


About 95% of the revenue of this handloom cluster is exportable. Most of the services are contracted out by cluster players in order to meet huge demands in a limited time period. The Barabanki cluster provides for scarves and stoles and some of the designs have exportable significance in some of the Middle East and European countries. Dyeing techniques of the cluster have shown improvement and numerous dyeing houses have been established so far for quality upgradation.


Process:


Initially the design is handrawn on the paper and then shifted from paper to the yarn to weave through warp and weft. This Jaal effect is hovered from top of the loom and attached to the warp threads and only the controlled warp threads are elevated as per the design. Extra weft threads of zari/ silk are inserted in the raised portions, row by row, along with the running weft thread.Jala device has been replaced by the punched cardson; the jacquard looms for these brocade decorations. Gyasar the Tibetan woven offerings are very closely woven. Apart from the silk/zari thread peacock feathers are used in a satin weave to produce an entire surface of the feathers. The motifs are rushed on different colours like dark red, yellow, blue and white satin ground with use of gold and silver zari.


Applique and Cut technique


Chikan Embroidery is characterized by the art woven by white threads. It can be weaved from the front as well as back of the cloth. Some stitches are worked from the front of the fabric, others from the back. There are mainly six types of stitches that are done for the Chikan embroidery purpose.

Pulled work (known as jaali), which means a gap with a prickled web, peeping through which we can see the other side easily, and khatao, applique-and-cut technique, where one section of fabric is hemmed on to another piece and afterward cut away.


Those days were history when Barabanki cluster was only known for lungis or gamchas. Today, the cluster offers exquisite range of products like scarves, stoles and shawls. In straight lines, geometric patterns and bold designs, Barabanki yields carry a blend of fragility with concrete yet supple mix in textiles. The stoles and scarves are highly in demand by the customers from Middle East and Europe. Speckled uses and dark shades on the upholstery fabrics is an added option of specialty products from this cluster. Be it anything like curtains, bed spreads, bed sheets, covers shades, or merely window dressings, textiles from Barabanki has left an unblotted mark in the minds of the customers from around the globe.

 

Values working success


  • There is a large local market which carries huge demand for its traditional artistries
  • Increasing global demand
  • Scope of market opportunities in Latin America for priced products
  • Large number of skilled artisans who perform art on variety of clothes
  • Quality nurturing competition in the market
  • Low-price hand made textiles available in different varieties
  • Customization on demand
  • Tax and Duties benefits
  • Accomplishment of Baba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna under the Development Commissioner for wellbeing of craftsmen
  • A Brand Name in itself
  • Easy availability of lost cost raw material and low transportation cost


Areas of Challenges


  • Obsolete technology barriers and competition with machine made products
  • Scarcity of funds
  • Unskilled workers and lack of technical support
  • More time consumed in production process and emphasis laid on low quality products
  • Low Exports
  • Sudden change in Government Policies such as Excise Duty and Trade Tax
  • Lack of Co-operation and communication among manufacturers
  • No fixed time for delivery of goods
  • Unorganized sector and cluster, lacks marketing and advertising
  • Less usage of efficient amenities related to technology such as Computer, CAD, Internet and Email etc.


Conclusion


There may be as many clusters developed in the country but Barbanki do and will keep holding a much superior place in the hearts and minds of customers as it has the potency at any moment, to match the styles and complicated knits that observe the eyes and

attention of the spectator. We can anytime look out for Barabankis famous stoles, scarves and shawls for daily purpose and explore the completely out of the world array of designs and outfits.


Reference


www.indianhandloomscluster-dchl.net/