The garment manufacturers are hard-pressed with continuously reducing product lead-time and improving productivity and the quality of their products. To satisfy these requirements, fabric should conform to the specifications and standards developed by the industry. However, in reality, it is difficult to find the perfect fabric that exactly adheres to the standard. Despite the significant advancements made in textile manufacturing technology over the last several centuries, the textile industry struggles to produce 100% perfect textile materials, which constitute 65% - 70% of the cost of garments. Industries that utilize these textile materials face difficulties in controlling the impact of defects in the fabric.

For proper costing of a garment and cost reduction, it is necessary to have a good understanding of fabric quality and various fabric losses that occur during garment production. While there is a considerable amount of research on improving marker efficiency to minimize fabric losses, very few studies or research works have been conducted to reduce the impact caused by fabric defects.

For the evaluation of fabric quality that cannot be directly reviewed, testing at sophisticated textile testing laboratories is required. If the testing results match the general acceptable standards for shrinkage, color fastness, seam strength, tensile strength, color fastness to crocking, etc., known as latent defects, garment manufacturers can continue production without difficulties. However, defects occurring in fabric weaving, dyeing, and finishing, which can be visually reviewed and are known as patent defects (knots, holes, slubs, stains, fly yarns, yarn fault, etc.), have different effects on the losses for different garment styles, even though the fabric meets the quality standards for these defects.

The author holds an M.Phil and is a freelance consultant.

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