Source:New Cloth Market


Abstract


Chikankariis an art, which results in the transformation of the plainest cotton andorgandie into flowing yards of magic. The word 'Chikan' steps from a Persian word derived from 'Chic', whichreferred to the 'Jali' work done on marble or wood. It is also famous as 'shadowwork' or 'white embroidery work', traditionally practiced in the city ofLucknow and its environs. This review article tried to bring out the presenceand importance of Chikankari embroidery in domestic and international market.The origin & history and developmental initiatives undertaken forChikankari embroidery are summarized. The various stitches & patternsof Chikankari embroidery utilized in the domestic and international market arediscussed. The Chikankari production process flow chart is explained.


Introduction


Textilesare decorated by various techniques; embroidering, brocading, printing,painting and dyeing, but among all of these techniques, the embroidering is theprotagonist. In India, there are many popular embroidery clusters like,'Chikankari of Lucknow', 'Kantha of Bengal', 'Fulkari of Punjab', 'KutchEmbroidery of Gujarat' & 'Kashida of Kashmir'. Each style of embroiderydifferentiates itself from the others, based on its own beauty &significant value. The 'Chikankari of Lucknow' is considered to be the mostpopular amongst these and is recognized worldwide1.



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Originally Published in New Cloth Market, Jan-2011


About the authors


B.R.Das is associatedwith Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, NewDelhi & S.Hati is associated with Utkal University of Culture, Bhubaneswar,Orissa.