Viscose is used with the Spandex in majority of the knit fabric applications. The requirements like wearing fit and comfort are largely linked with the use of Spandex. However the relation between spandex consumption & knit fabric properties has not been studied much. Knitters generally depend on the experience to adjust m/c parameters to reach the desired characteristics in the fabric. The aim of this paper is to investigate the relation between spandex consumption and fabric weight, fabric width and elastic behavior of the knit fabric.


The wear fit and comfort of knitwear are generally ensured by the Elastane content in the fabric. Nowadays, there is a large requirement of light weight Viscose/Spandex fabrics for the knitwear's considering the wearer's comfort and cost benefits. Spandex is always processed with one or the other yarns like Viscose, Modal, and Cotton etc. Blending Spandex with the ground yarn is called 'Plating'. In plating process, both the yarns are fed to the knitting needle simultaneously and they form one loop with one yarn covering the other.


In the below figure, Spandex is plated with the Viscose yarn where A is the Viscose & B is the Spandex. The fabric pattern after plating Spandex is shown in the Fig. 2. The Spandex should always enter the knitting hook first followed by the Spandex yarn.


Spandex yarn proportion is the most important parameter of a Viscose / Spandex knitted fabric. Fabric GSM, width, dimensional stability & elastic recovery are largely affected by the Spandex consumption. Yet authentic relation between spandex consumption & fabric properties not well known. Knitters generally do the m/c adjustments to achieve the required spandex percentage.


The aim of this study was to study the effect of Elastane consumption on three main fabric parameters viz. GSM, width & dimensional stability of Viscose plain single jersey knitted fabrics.


Methodology


We have produced 3 different types of Viscose/Spandex knitted fabrics by varying the spandex percentage in each of the fabrics. Mentioned below are the Single jerseys knitting m/c specifications used for the experiment,


M/c Make - Mayer & Cie Cylinder Dia- 30"

Gauge-24 No. of Feeders - 96