High-end men's formal jackets are made out of fine craftsmanship and at times can require around 150 operations. Precise stitching and sewing of garment component along with proper finesse makes these engineered products extremely niche. Without an appropriate ironing of the jacket, the final product will lose its charm and lack sculpting of the shape given to it.


The pressing of jackets is essentially of two kinds, in-line pressing and end-line pressing. In-line pressing of the jackets requires pressing of darts, pockets, side seams, and edges, while end-line pressing of the jackets involves front and back of the garment, collars, lapels, shoulders, armholes and sleeve pressing. The final finishing of jackets consists of various operations.


Traditionally, bespoke manufacturers used flat surface bucks with irons to finish the several components of left and right front three dimensional shapes of different parts of a jacket. But with the help of advanced and sophisticated finishing equipments and specialized machines for end-line finishing of jackets bespoke garment makers can breathe easy. There are different kinds of machines available for specific purpose pressing of a jacket.


There are machines available in the market today than can perform more than one operation at a time as long as end-line finishing is concerned. The various tasks that are involved in end-line pressing of jackets are divided into categories as follows:


Front & Back Pressing


The front and back pressing of the jacket is done separately or in a simultaneous operation. Machines having high-tech functions can iron a jacket placed vertically or horizontally. Each brand of pressing machine uses different techniques. For example, one brand has developed different machines for ironing different parts of the jacket like the left and right front pressing, centre and side back ironing, and right and left foreparts pressing together. Another company manufactures pressing machines that can iron the whole of front and back along with both horizontal and vertical closing bucks.


There are also robot machines for vertically pressing the front and back together. In such robotic machines, in order to open the bottom circumference, the jacket is placed on a hanger, and air is blown inside. With the smartly designed robotic arms the jacket is placed on a vertical dummy and the jacket is pressed from top to down movement.

The whole process requires only one individual or operator to align the jacket manually and engage the clamps. Moreover, all the pressing operations are carried out while the jacket is on the hanger, hence the garments do not loose shape and highlight different parts. The jacket hangs on the buck just like the way it is placed on human shoulders, this helps in aligning the seams, edges, and stripes. The bucks even have different chambers for steam and suction operations to be used.

 

Pressing of Collar, Lapel and Shoulder


The collar pressing machine consists of vertically closing upper bucks to iron both the collars simultaneously. The jacket needs to be placed manually on a diamond shaped buck and are aligned in such a way so as to prevent the fabric underneath the collars to have an impression mark on the body. The bucks used in such type of machines have vacuum for collar, lapels with single programmed air blowing, and the head buck for steaming the collar and the lapel areas.


In a shoulder pressing machine there are two bucks, one for the right and the other for the left shoulders of a jacket. These machines come with features like unique buck designs for different sizes, rapid changing bucks to save machine downtime, and pre-heating of bucks for decreasing the style changeover time. The shoulder ironing machines usually have two lower bucks and two movable upper bucks that revolve in necessary directions to achieve a perfectly orthogonal pressing.


Armhole and Sleeve Pressing


The machines for pressing armhole and sleeves of jackets come with different kinds of equipments. Some machines have two lower dummies that are equipped with vacuum and steaming provisions in the shoulder region, air blowing and steaming in the sleeves and arm holes, and flapper screen. The vertically heated head which releases steam to press the shoulder and then begins the air blowing of the sleeves, and at the very end the flapper screen covers the whole sleeve and armhole area. Few machines have special air bag system, wherein the pressure can be adjusted so that the garment can be held at its place. There is also an added provision for push-up and roll-on sleeve models of pressing with used of these machines.


Such highly engineered machines with precise provisions help provide complete finishing to a perfectly designed jacket. The more commercially available machines, which are also used by dry-cleaners, do not provide end-line pressing of each and every component of a jacket. Professional machines make it easier to achieve finer and crisper finishing results.


References:


1.      Stitchworld.net

Image Courtesy:


1.      Ehow.com