Kota Doria is a handloom cotton fabric known for its weaving style that makes the fabric translucent and light. Airy and comfortable, it makes a good choice for summer and its softness and transparency lend it grace, maintain Kavita Chaudhary and Suman Pant.


Masuria, which refers to the city of Mysore, is the place where the weaving of Kota Doria originated. The finest checks resemble the masur or red lentil seed. Weavers of Kota Doria were taken to Kota in Rajasthan by Rao Kishore Singh, a general in the Mughal army, in the late 17th and early 18th century. That is how the saris came to be known as Kota-Masuria.


Each khat in these saris has 14 threads of which eight are of cotton and six are of silk yarn, both in transverse and longitudinal directions. So, the number of ends and picks per inch can be ascertained resulting into 2400 cotton and 1800 silk yarns used in warp. Nowadays, you also get a mixture of 70 per cent cotton from Coimbatore and 30 per cent silk from Karnataka.


Today's consumer demands variety. Variation in Kota Doria is possible by using new yarn such as bamboo or a combination of natural yarns. Bamboo viscose or regenerated bamboo is a regenerated cellulosic fibre. In the last few years, more and more products from bamboo fibres have been appearing because it has a unique combination of properties. Further variation can be further possible by using new techniques of designing. One such is extra weft figuring. Decorative effects in multicolour are often possible through extra threads in weft direction.


Use of bamboo yarn in combination with silk for designing of Kota Doria by extra weft figuring is presented here.


Materials and Methods

100 per cent silk yarn of 332.3 Nm, 100 per cent bamboo yarn of 64.6 Nm and 100 reed count were used to prepare fabric by extra weft technique.



Bamboo and silk yarns were dyed according to colour combination of the warp (dark turquoise blue and gray for bamboo and gray for silk) and weft (black for bamboo and gray for silk). Reactive dyes were used.



A design was created on CAD system. Draft and peg plan are: