A small
weavers society in Kerala has been applying traditional knowledge of Ayurvedic
dyeing with herbs to produce, what are being called, medical clothing. Sudha Passi writes about the
initiative.
Even as smart technical textiles
with anti-microbial properties are facing serious sustainability issues, a
group of weavers in Kerala is charting a new chapter in sustainable textiles by
making their own version of medicinal cloth by applying traditional knowledge
of Ayurvedic dyeing with herbs.
The Thiruvananthapuram-based
Handloom Weavers Development Society (HLWDS) produces and markets medicinal
cloth under the brand Ayurvedic handloom. Clothing items like shirts, sarees,
shawls, leggings, mundus (traditional lungi or wraparound for men) and
bedsheets are infused with medicinal properties to facilitate recovery or
prevention of various ailments such as arthritis, rheumatism, asthma, itching
and psoriasis by dyeing the fabric or yarn with specific herbs.
Organic
and medicinal
These are completely organic textiles
with no application of chemical dyes or toxic irritants, and are fully
biodegradable. Specific dyes and herbs are used to infuse a fabric for
protection against a particular affliction. Thus, there here are special
clothes for rheumatism, blood pressure, diabetes, psoriasis, itch, asthma, and
also for reducing tension, the society claims. Up to 50 medicinal herbs could
be used in a particular dye.
"More than 1,000 different
kinds of herbs such as turmeric, aloe vera, neem, tulsi (basil), saffron, henna,
etc are used in the production of dyes," says Rajan, dyeing technician at
HLWDS, adding the society has a production capacity of 1,000 kg dyes per day.
The herbs are collected by local tribals from forests in the region. For
instance, the main herbs used in dye for the treatment of arthritis are curry
leaves and apocynceae. To treat skin diseases, turmeric, neem and sandalwood
are used. Dyes to treat diabetes contain Mimosa pudica (touch-me-not), cumin
seeds, champa flower and shoe flower (hudahal).
The concept of medicinal cloth is
part of Ayurvedic treatment, wherein the skin is exposed to medicinal herbs
infused into clothing, matting or bedding of a patient. On coming in contact
with the skin, the herbs from the fabric are absorbed into the body and can
help in healing a broad range of diseases such as diabetes, skin infections,
asthma, arthritis, and hypertension. Wearing medicinal cloth is also known to
strengthen the immune system.
Experiments on the use of
medicinal cloth conducted by Ayurveda College in Thiruvanathapuram found
encouraging results in case of patients suffering from various skin diseases,
arthritis, and blood pressure. According to Dr Vishwanathan, the former dean of
the Drug Research Department at Ayurveda College, the results were
"remarkably good" especially in the cases of arthritis and skin
diseases. Following the positive results, the Kerala government granted HLWDS?
2.5 lakh for further research in healing properties of the medicinal textiles.
Government
support
The weavers of HLWDS had been
producing the medicinal cloth since 1992, keeping alive the age-old tradition
of Ayurvedic technique under the guidance of CR Ayyappan Vaidyan, Neelakandan
Vaidyan and Damodaran Vaidyan. Their efforts, however, got a boost under government
aid in the wake of ban on exports of clothes made using synthetic dyes in 2005.
It was an opportunity to tap the huge market potential in the developed world.
With the financial support of the
Japanese government, HLWDS established an Ayurvedic dye house in Balaramapuram
in September 2004. The Ayurvedic dye house is equipped with modern machineries
and facilities to produce pure Ayurvedic herbal handloom cloth. Its minimum
production capacity is nearly 1,000 kg per day. In 2005, the Government of India
granted ₹850,000 to assist the
HLWDS in establishing a common facility centre for Ayurvedic dyeing on handloom
clothes and for standardisation of ayurvedic dyeing.
Market,
marketing & communication
"Our products are
exported to countries such as the United States, United Kingdom, Japan, Italy, France,
and Brazil," said Rajan, adding that queries are handled by the society
itself through the website. The products are priced pretty reasonably. A single
bedsheet costs around ₹400, while a double bedsheet is priced at ₹700. A medicinal cloth
shawl could cost a client anywhere from ₹160 to ₹2000, he said, adding
that the orders are shipped directly to the customers and handled on
case-by-case basis.
Like most small cooperatives, it
seems to be patterned on the social welfare model, with the website giving all
details on the product but missing out on the main commercial aspects.
"We are proud to be the first
and only manufacturers of medicinal cloth, organic handloomed textiles dyed in
medicinal herbs to promote health and treat various ailments," proclaims
HLWDS on its website. Apart from the health reasons, it says how buying the
medicinal cloth would help empower hundreds of members and so on.
"By purchasing medicinal
cloth products, you are supporting an environment-friendly alternative to
synthetic fabrics and synthetic dyes. A strong medicinal cloth market will help
secure the livelihoods of local Indian farmers, weavers, and tribes. Medicinal
cloth production also encourages cultivation and conservation of medicinal
plant biodiversity. By supporting HLWDS, you further empower us to expand our
important role as a livelihoods and women empowerment organisation and advocate
for the poor."
But what if the
sustainability statement just catches the fancy of a prospective client? They
are definitely in for an unpleasant e-shopping experience which could leave
them high and dry.
The price of the products is
missing and the product gallery is woefully staid and generic for one to place
an order. The shop link does not present a list or contact number of either the
Indian or international distributors, with whom orders can be placed. The only
contact number takes a person to Rajan, who provides elementary information,
and asks the clients to take the e-mail route. It has remained unanswered for
more than a month.
In this age of Internet and instant communication, when deals are made at the click of a mouse, marketing of medicinal cloth leaves a lot to be desired. While the sustainability drum has been beaten enough, the marketing side, at least on the website, comes as an anti-climax.
