"Patola"- the supreme among Indian ikats, is a double ikat silk textile traditionally dyed with naturally dyes, producded by Jain weavers of Salvi community says Noopur Sonee.
These double-ikat patola textiles were woven in Patan, Surat and other centers but there are now only two families of Jians weaving them in Patan. Cheaper Patola imitations are woven in single ikat in Rajkot, Saurashtra and in both single and double ikats in Andhra Pradesh in the South.
In India, patola were used as ceremonial saris chiefly by Nagar Brahmins, Hindus or Jain Mahajans (Merchants) and Bohra Muslims, notably in Gujarat and Maharastra. Traditionally, patola were often worn by the mother of groom and it was gifted as wedding presents. But it was rarely worn as bridal saris.
It is a legendary heritage of Indian textiles from North Gujarat. A double ikat silk fabric in which both warp as well as weft threads are dyed into a complicated pattern, it is one of most complex textile- weaving techniques in the world and highly priced fabric.
Motifs and Design:
The designs include leaf forms, geometrical forms, floral forms, architectural forms, flowering plants, creepers, animals and human figures. these included Pan Bhat, Rattan Chok Bhat, NariKunjar Bhat, Phulwa Bhat, Chhabadi Bhat, BohraGaji Bhat, Gala Wali Bhat, Akhrot Bhat, Popat Kunjar, Maharas bhat and Vohra Cheer bhat.
1. Pan Bhat: Mahajans of Hindus and Jain communities were mainly used this design of patola. It has pan shaped leaves in the main field and in the rows. Border was enhanced with motifs of elephant, flowering plants, female dancers and parrots which are arranged in sequence and repeated in compartments.