The textile industry’s energy intensive manufacturing processes produce large amounts of greenhouse gas emissions. Transitioning to renewable energy is crucial for the industry to reduce its carbon footprint and move away from its dependence on fossil fuels, towards a more sustainable future.

Textiles play a fundamental role in human society and without them, life would be very different. Essential for survival, their rich history provides a window into ancient culture, art and storytelling. The first example of textiles was identified by archaeologists at the Dzudzuana Cave in the former Soviet state of Georgia. They found a handful of flax fibres dating back 34,0001 years. These fibres had been twisted, cut and dyed, making them the oldest fibres ever used by humans. They could have been used for warmth and mobility; for rope, baskets, or shoes.

Since then, the textile trade has exploded, with the industry now valued at approximately $1,000 billion. Providing millions with employment, economic revenue and everyday fabrics, the textile industry contributes to many aspects of human civilisation. The main driver of the industry is fashion, which is estimated to produce 80-150 billion2 garments a year, supplying an ever-growing demand for consumption.

The textile industry is a major contributor to global warming; 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions are accounted for by clothing and footwear production, which is more than all international and maritime shipping combined.3 Problems arise at the very start of textile production when raw materials are harvested, woven into fabrics and dyed. Each of these processes requires land, water and fossil fuels, leading to an increase in air, water and soil pollution.

The sourcing/growing of raw materials, such as cotton, involves a substantial amount of pesticides, water consumption and land, resulting in soil degradation and water contamination. Moreover, the textile industry is also one of the most energy-intensive industries, with the majority of factories relying on fossil fuels to power their machines. It has been found that textile dyeing is the second-largest polluter of water worldwide4, due to wastewater being dumped back into waterways.

The impact of textiles’ does not stop after production as the throwaway culture that follows further contributes to global warming; landfills are overflowing with textile waste and large amounts of greenhouse gases are released into the atmosphere when this waste is incinerated. In 2017, 17 million tonnes5 textile waste was estimated to have ended up in landfill, and in 2018, 3.2 million tons was incinerated. At present, less than 1 per cent of textile waste is recycled.

So, where can the textile industry reduce its emissions? Well, this is a very complex question because it is a heterogeneous sector with problems existing throughout its entire production chain. Therefore, changes need to be made to reduce the devastating impact of the textile industry on the world. Once an activity where fabrics and materials were woven together for survival, it is now an industry driven by consumption, mass production and profit. If the world is to meet the IPCC’s (The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) ambitious target of limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees, then action needs to be taken to mitigate the polluting effects of the textile industry.

Where do our textiles come from?

Currently, China is the world’s largest textile producer. China is also the largest textile exporter (excluding apparel and accessories) with a value of $154 billion,6 followed by Europe ($86 billion), the US ($16 billion), India ($15 billion) and Turkey ($12 billion). Although China’s textile industry may bring the country billions, due to its dependency on coal, it is one of the main drivers of China’s GHG emissions followed closely by electrical consumption.7

The factories and manufacturing hubs producing the world’s textiles need to evaluate their current methods which rely on coal and natural gas power plants, and transition to greener energy sources. As the world pushes forward with sustainable policies and implementation, no industry or country can be exempt. It has to be a collective effort on a global scale.

Energy Use in The Textile Industry

Energy is one of the most important aspects of the textile industry – every part of its supply chain is energy-intensive, and the industry is one of the highest energy consumers. Around 23 per cent of textiles’ energy is consumed in weaving, 34 per cent in spinning, 38 per cent in chemical processing, and another 5 per cent for miscellaneous purposes.8

In terms of the industry’s environmental impact, the dyeing and finishing stages of textile manufacturing are the primary drivers, accounting for around 60-70 per cent.9 Dyeing uses a substantial amount of energy due to the amount of water needed in the process, whilst the finishing stage requires a large amount of energy to power a series of mechanical and chemical processes, which convert textile/cloth into usable materials. Yarn preparation also plays a role in environmental impact but not as significantly as the dyeing and finishing stages.

The textile industry’s GHG emissions from energy usage are largely due to the reliance on coal and natural gas. These finite resources are used to generate electricity and heat in key processing factories. Large manufacturing countries such as China, India and Indonesia, have heavily coal-based energy mixes (sources), and therefore, they have huge carbon footprints associated with their production.

Another problem with the industry is its energy inefficiency – the textile industry holds the record for one of the lowest efficiencies in energy utilisation. Around 50 per cent of the energy input to the textile industry is lost10 through the manufacturing line. Due to the energy lost having primarily been sourced from fossil fuels, the energy powering these factories is not only unsustainable, but it is also incredibly wasteful. Therefore, optimisation and development of manufacturing processes, that take into account energy efficiency and loss, are essential when considering ways to lower the carbon footprint of the industry.

Global Initiatives Promoting Renewable Energy In The Textile Industry

Traditional energy usage, efficiency and sourcing in the textile industry is unsustainable and there is a need for radical transformation. Aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goal 7, i.e., “ensure access to affordable, reliable, sustainable and modern energy for all”, many companies in the industry are being urged to invest in renewable energy, such as wind and solar, moving away from their heavy reliance on coal and natural gas.

With this urge comes global initiatives like the RE100, created by The Climate Group, promoting businesses to move towards 100 per cent renewable energy; “RE100 is the global corporate renewable energy initiative bringing together hundreds of large and ambitious businesses committed to 100 per cent renewable electricity.” The Climate Group is working with leading international fashion, apparel, textile and footwear retailers committed to climate action. They are working together to find ways that these retailers can be powered by 100 per cent renewable electricity through RE100.

Major brands who are committed to 100 per cent renewable power include Swedish fashion brand H&M Group,11 which currently sources 90 per cent of its electricity from renewables, and Burberry, which obtains 58 per cent of its total energy from renewables. Another 300 influential companies have also joined the RE100, including Nike, Kering, Ralph Lauren and Chanel, marking an important step for apparel’s movement towards sustainability.

The initiative has clear and rigorous checks in place to ensure that member companies are working towards their promises. The member companies submit annual progress reports that detail all electricity purchases, products and uses. These reports are then further validated by the Climate Groups Partner Organisation CPD – a not-for-profit charity that runs the global disclosure system for investors, companies, cities, states and regions to manage their environmental impacts. Initiatives and partnerships like this showcase that there is an obvious desire in the industry to find alternative sources of power.

Decentralising Renewable Energy (DRE) In India

In addition to global initiatives to promote renewable energy transition, there are also governmental policies with the potential to reshape energy use in textile production. In India, the textile sector is one of the oldest in the economy. It employs an estimated 12.9 million12 people in formal factory settings, and millions more indirectly in informal, home-based settings.

However, erratic power supply, high power tariff, lack of raw materials and limited access to modern technology adversely impact rural workers’ livelihoods.13 In addition to this, unequal power tariffs among different states impact textile producers’ competitiveness in the market, with some producers having the advantage of charging less, simply because their tariff is.

Therefore, the Central government recently released a national framework for promoting decentralised renewable energy in India. Having decentralised renewable energy (DRE) sources like rooftop solar panels, micro or mini-grids and rechargeable batteries would promote increased access to affordable, reliable and clean energy services in India, eliminating the reliance on diesel, particularly in rural settings, and supplementing the grid supply.

Since energy makes up 15-20 per cent14 of the total production cost in the textile industry, having accessibility to renewable energy could accelerate the scale of textile production; solar reeling machines can produce 1 kg of yarn in 4-5 days compared to thigh reeling, which produces 1 kg in 10 days. This decentralisation would therefore improve productivity and incomes of rural micro-, small- and medium-scale enterprises.

Decentralising renewable energy sources, however, is not without problems. There are still challenges to the availability of inputs (raw materials, financing, modern technology, etc) which present barriers to this framework. Nevertheless, it promotes alternative ways to help sustain the livelihood of people dependent on textile production, whilst also mitigating fossil fuel dependence.

Investing In And Decentralising Renewable Energy

In the last few years, there has been a sharp rise in textile companies investing in solar energy as they pave the way towards a less destructive future. For example, India’s largest apparel exporter, Shahi Exports15 invested in two solar power plants of 32 MW and 52 MW to help push to achieve its goal of 100 per cent renewable energy.16 MAS Holdings, South Asia’s largest apparel and textile manufacturer, has also announced that two of its factories in Indonesia have switched entirely to renewable energy. Vietnam’s textile factories have been working with Vu Phong Energy Group to install solar power systems on the industry’s rooftops including Eclat- Fabrics and Men-chuen factories.17

These investments and installations show that the textile industry is ready to evolve to the next stage of energy generation with a movement towards the circular economy model and sustainable development.

Benefits Of Moving Towards Renewable Energy

1) Cheaper

The cost of renewables including wind, solar and battery storage has considerably decreased over the last 10 years. Investing in renewable energies may seem like a huge cost initially, but investors can see a payback from this within five years after investing. Additionally, a new IRENA (The International Renewable Energy Agency) report shows that almost two-thirds of renewable power that was added in 2021 had lower costs than the cheapest coal-fired options in G20 countries.18

2) Environmental Benefits

It is a well-known fact that the dependence on fossil fuels, natural gas and coal needs to come to an end. Having changed the very foundations that support life on earth, the urgency to move towards a greener, renewable fuelled future needs to be a priority for every industry. For GHG and global warming targets to be met, the textile industry, being one of the largest contributors, must look at ways it can reduce its carbon footprint, and renewable energy offers a viable solution.

3) Customer Care

It is becoming more important for companies to be sustainable. Conscious consumerism is on the rise and buyers are now actively choosing brands that are more ethically and environmentally responsible. Therefore, switching to renewables is an important way for companies to show that they are listening to what the customers want and that they are taking the necessary steps to safeguard the planet.

4) Competition

During energy crisis situations that cause blackouts amid global energy shortages, companies are most likely to choose supplier companies which can meet their quality requirements and the deadline for production. By having invested in renewable power and thereby independent reliable energy sources, suppliers will be able to meet production deadlines and will have an edge over their competitors. Additionally, due to the reduced costs of production, lower costs can be offered to buyers, further reinstating this competitive advantage.

5) Measuring energy efficiency

Switching to a new source of power and measuring energy usage allows companies to identify the processes and machines which are most energy intensive. This information can then be used to streamline the production process involved in manufacturing and replace outdated, energy-intensive machinery and equipment with more efficient ones.

Barriers to Renewable energy in the Textile Industry

Although the need for using more renewable energy is evident, there are barriers in place preventing manufacturers from transitioning. These barriers are often less about the financial investment or the cost of the technology, and more about legislation, fossil fuel subsidies and limitation of advanced technologies.

In countries that are pro-renewables with financial backing and capital investment, such as the US and Europe, there are more easily accessible pathways in place which allows companies to switch to renewable power. However, in developing countries, this transition may not be as easy. For example, in Vietnam, off-site power purchase agreements (PPAs), essential for sourcing renewable electricity at scale, are not easily available.19

Additionally, in countries where fossil fuel subsidies and legislative barriers are in place, the uptake of renewables is prevented. For example, in South Korea, a single company, KEPCO, which is very oil dependent, has control over the entire energy supply, and therefore restricts the transition towards renewable energy because the renewable energy market is yet to fully develop.

For companies to shift to renewable energy, there needs to be a financial incentive which overrides fossil fuel subsidies, and a legal framework for independent power suppliers to supply renewable energy. If countries are not ready to move towards renewable power, then they might lose the suppliers and manufacturing hubs that they need.

Conclusion

Despite the impediments, global change is happening, and the textile industry is showing a desire to switch to renewables. To tackle the barriers surrounding renewable energy, investments need to be made which override fossil fuel subsidies, motivating countries to put the legal framework in place for renewable energy projects – the benefits of renewables need to be more attractive than traditional coal and natural gas energy sources. It is for this reason that initiatives like the RE100, combining industry leaders and manufacturers, are essential in the energy transition – clubbing together to lobby governments to back renewables, and allowing companies to top-finance renewable energy projects.

The textile industry has a long way to go and requires changes in almost every aspect of textile production. Transitioning to renewable energy is just one of the areas which need to change. However, it is an essential change which can make a huge impact on the global GHG emissions output.