Gorpcore Fashion

Gorpcore is defined as a fashion trend which involves wearing functional outdoor wear as streetwear in an urban trendy style. It is said to have evolved in 2010s when this outdoorsy aesthetic originated as an evolution to streetwear and the desire for a rugged and nature-inspired look. The stark difference between initial days gorpcore and that of today is the power of celebrity influence and social media. With the term ‘gorpcore’ surpassing 1.7 billion views on TikTok, the trend has been brought out into the mainstream. The present day gorpcore-inspired styles are often incorporated into runway collections and worn by influential celebrities. Since the contemporary gorpcore comprises technical garments such as puffer jackets, hiking boots and fleeces, they exude usage practicality as well as style appeal. This attracts celebrities to incorporate such outerwear into their everyday attire.

Celebrities at Play

The trend has been promoted by celebrities on and off the runway. Many celebrities from Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and A$AP Rocky to Justine and Hailey Bieber have publicly shown their penchant for the trend. They have been found stepping out flaunting the attires that stand much gropy. Take the instance of Biebers – Hailey Bieber was spotted wearing a colourful sunset fleece pullover with a forest green baseball cap and chunky brown sneakers for an outing with her friends in L.A. Earlier, her husband Justin Bieber – the singing sensation, was seen in gorpcore layered look wearing a colourful, camping-ready windbreaker over a New York sweatshirt, baggy jeans and practical sneakers. He had even rocked out in black star-shaped pimple patches. Pop star Rihanna was seen wearing a pair of chunky red sneakers from the MM6 Maison Margiela x Salomon collection during her Super Bowl performance.

As the celebrities, including cultural figures and artists, have great influence on the consumers who buy the fashion promoted by them, their fans get inspired to invest in gorpcore fashion. In the process, brands are encouraged to use celebrity power to their advantage. As a result, outdoor brands like Patagonia, Columbia, Mammut, and Arc’teryx benefit from the trend, when celebrities such as Frank Ocean, Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid are seen wearing their products at fashion shows as well as in everyday settings.

Not so New Trend

A survey¹ by Winnebago Industries Inc found that in 2022, 82 per cent of US consumers had participated in outdoor activities such as camping, hiking and boating – up from 60 per cent in 2020. In the UK, nearly half of those surveyed admitted to be spending more time outdoors than they did before the pandemic²; and in China, the searches for ‘outdoor’ on local marketplace Tmall increased more than 600 per cent between 2021 and 2023³. So, COVID-19 can be largely credited to have fuelled this trend. However, there are some fashion experts who believe the trend had caught up even before that, especially among celebrities like A$AP Rocky and Franck Ocean who have been wearing hiking-inspired clothing since long. Traditionally, many brands were already operating in that space too, some expressively while some subtly. While Timberland was already fashionable within hip-hop subculture, the high-end Gucci and Moncler also contributed to the trend with their collaborations that featured functional yet fashionable designs.

Gorpcore Aesthetics

The gorpcore fashion is centred around hiking-themed clothing items for mountaineers including cargo pants, hiking boots, items lined with Gore-Tex, technical puffer jackets, fleeces, and other such outdoor attire. It even incorporates accessories in the form of fanny packs, crossbody bags, minimal jewellery and sports sunglasses. The trend largely relies on looser fits but there is sufficient room for customisation and versatility. The colour spectrum ranges from nature-inspired to bright colours as well as from earthy shades to bold palettes. Being utility products, the pants often have many pockets or details.

Though gorpcore has substantial range of clothing items, there are five staples or aesthetics, as one may call them, which essentially constitute every gorpcore wardrobe. The first one being all-season garment of cargo pants akin to denim in everyday dress; the Sherpa look is equally essential during cooler months to be on a coat, jacket or a hoodie as the fleece helps keeping the wearer warm or at least give an impression of warmth; to protect the wearer from inconvenient weather conditions a technical jacket, designed from different innovative fabrics that serve specific purposes, is also a must; for go-to footwear the versatile hiking boots can be worn with jeans, cargo pants, activewear as well as casual workout dress; and, as accessories, a warm beanie for chillier months or a bucket hat to protect the body from the sun also make a great match. 

For those who spend time in wilderness, the layering is important especially when there is a need to control body temperature. This is also where gorpcore plays an important role and comes as relevant option. Gorpcore garments are designed to hold in heat and expel moisture, and that is compounded when a puffer is layered under. This also serves as great idea for those fashionistas who always look forward to wearing an outfit that has different components based on whether standing outside or at the bar.

What Makes the Trend Appealing

The gorpcore trend appeals to fans as it provides combination of functionality, effortless styles and its association with activities like skiing and hiking that are often considered exclusive to the wealthy people. Since the trend is accessible through second-hand and timeless pieces too, it attracts mainstream audience as well. In this sense, the gorpcore becomes a form of investment dressing which remains practical even as styles evolve. In addition, it provides a sense of comfort and adventure to its wearers by being prepared for the elements, making it an attractive escape from the reality.

There is another reason why shoppers are showing increased interest in gorpcore. Many gorpcore brands such as Patagonia, Arc’teryx and The North Face offer warranties around product quality and life cycle. This works enticingly for those households which have limited discretionary funds. For them, it is better to care more about quality and invest in it, and when they find assured quality in brands like Patagonia, Birkenstock — some of the tried-and-true gorpcore brands, it adds value. This perfectly aligns with a Gartner survey which found that consumers rank quality as the number two factor behind price in deciding whether to make a purchase or not⁴. Some industry experts liken gorpcore to quiet luxury – a category of fashion that emphasises investment pieces and minimalist clothing wherein the consumers care less about the logo that they are showing off, and instead care more about the quality of the item. So, in the same way that quiet luxury is taking off amongst luxury brands, gorpcore is taking off amongst the mono brands.

Technical Fibres

As the gorpcore is inspired by campers and mountaineers who have to face and deal with unfriendly and harsh conditions, their attire, gorpcore in particular, have to have technical fibres. Therefore, one of the key features of gorpcore pieces happens to be the technical fibres used in their making. Since the gorpcore trend exhibit an aesthetic that reflects function-over-form, these pieces are expected to serve well in various climatic conditions. Gore-Tex, a premier fabric created by Gore of WL Gore & Associates, is one such Teflon product meant to keep the wearer’s body dry and at the same time breathe in a way that does not make one feel wearing a trash bag. Gore-Tex Pro, a 3L (three-layered), is another variant that is essentially waterproof, allowing wearer to stand dry in a torrential rainstorm or under a shower head. So, these fabrics come with a purpose and are equally good at that too, be it downpour or skiing.  

How Sustainable is Gorpcore

Had gorpcore been devoid of sustainable nature in any of its products, a brand like Patagonia would not have made it a huge part of its marketing mix. The statement implies that the information pertaining to the make of gorpcore product is available to the customer at the time of its buying, be it with repurposed or recycled material. Another sustainable feature of gorpcore is its ability to stand as a thrift option. As most of these products are durable, they do not tend to rot away in a closet. Instead, they can be donated or found by vintage hunters and then resold, leading to a cycle of younger generations finding and repurposing old outdoor gear into the trendy outfits for Instagram posts where such products are worn and shown in an imaginable and innovative ways.

Season of Collaborations and Adoption

There is a long list of brands which are popularly associated with the trend – Patagonia, The North Face, Salomon, Columbia, Arc’teryx, Hoka, Teva, REI, 66North, Urban Outfitters, Free People and Outdoor Voices, with many of them getting into collaborations with fashion brands. There has been a series of such collaborations – The North Face and Supreme, Fjallraven and Acne Studios, and Reformation and Canada Goose, to name a few. In 2021 The North Face collaborated with luxury fashion brand Gucci, followed by the Swiss brand On collaborating with luxury brand Loewe and Deckers-owned running brand Hoka working with luxury brand Moncler. While on came up with its third collaboration with Loewe in March 2023, Salomon rolled out a collection with Sandy Liang later in May and with JJJJound in June. During 2023, ASICS also collaborated with Brain Dead (LA-based collective) and Dime (skate brand from Montreal). In early 2023, when Deckers Brands reported 35.3 per cent growth in direct-to-consumer net sales, the company’s running brand Hoka was cited as the main reason for its growth. The brand reported a 27.4 per cent surge in net sales, reaching $420.5 million. Then there are cult brands like Sandy Liang, which frequently incorporates gorpcore elements such as its first viral release – the Chinatown grandmothers-inspired fleece. In a way, gorpcore can be identified as new luxury streetwear, becoming apparent in the launch of items like Jacquemus hiking boots, the Dior and Birkenstock collaboration, and Prada’s popular nylon accessories.

On the retail front, fashion retailers are not far behind and are jumping on the gorpcore bandwagon with Neiman Marcus featuring a camping gear in its store windows, and footwear retailer Crocs producing more rugged styles. High end luxury retailers like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga have featured gorpcore in their fashion shows. Nike’s All Conditions Gear (ACG) is available on Nordstrom as well as Amazon. At the more affordable end of the market, while the Swedish fashion retailer H&M included water-repellent parkas and hiking trousers in its Move collection, the Spanish fashion company Inditex added hiking boots to its permanent range at Oysho. In the UK, the Marks & Spencer added German sportswear brand Adidas and athleisure brand Sweaty Betty to its online sportswear platform to broaden its brand offering and tap into the growing sportswear market.

Business Galore

Business wise too, the brands that fall under gorpcore are reflecting the success of the trend. In July 2023, The North Force marked its 10th consecutive quarter of double-digit constant revenue growth. Meanwhile, Teva’s annual sales reported an upward trajectory with $138.8 million in 2021, $162.7 million in 2022 and $183.1 million in 2023; Brooks Running delivered record revenues both in 2021 and 2022; while Amer Sports – the parent company of Salomon, Arc’teryx and Wilson, is now targeting all its three brands to turn into €1 billion companies. Since a part of gorpcore looks working out and thus shows similarities to athleisure, the pandemic-fuelled gorpcore is having cross influence on the category as well. Lululemon reported a 24 per cent annual increase in net revenue in Q1, 2023 and Beyond Yoga reported a revenue jump of 28 per cent during second quarter.

According to the resale platform StockX’s report ‘Big Facts: Brands Making Moves’5 covering January to July 2023 period, gorpcore brands are some of the top performers on the platform. Among sneakers, On Running rose whooping 15,357 per cent y-o-y, Salomon increased at a three-digit rate of 202 per cent and ASICS grew 72 per cent, while Birkenstock – a special mention, not only jumped 492 per cent annually but also went public with $8 billion valuation. The North Face is one of StockX’s staple brands, while Arc’teryx is up 4,000 per cent y-o-y on the site.

Exclusive Branded Pieces

The North Face Urban Exploration RE:EXPLORATION Patch Up capsule collection is a series of garments that were designed as part of the brand’s FW 2023 range which merges style with technical capabilities. The collection includes the M Fabric mix down jacket, M Vintage fleece jacket, W Layering down, M Vintage fleece crew, the Nuptse mule and the W Patchwork crew. Each of the styles adapt to the changing season and is constructed with advanced technology for optimal heat retention and loose-fitting styles.

Patagonia has ventured into 3L gorpcore through Baselayers, Midlayers and Shell. The Baselayers, the foundation of any layering system and sweat-wicking layer for next-to-skin comfort, help in preventing the fabric from getting soaked with sweat thus avoiding the cold later on when the body movement stops. Patagonia offers lightest option in Capilene Midweight Baselayers which is fast-drying for high exertion activities, and Capilene Thermal weight with grid fabric which provides stepped up warmth with breathability and odour control. The brand also provides Midlayers to be worn under the Shell. While Midlayers keep the body warm by trapping body’s heat, a Shell protects the body against elements as it is durable, waterproof or wind-resistant. Patagonia has two categories of Midlayers – technical fleece and insulted products which is further segmented as down, synthetic and active insulations. For Shell, it has three options in soft shell, wind shell and waterproof shell.

Free People introduced a jacket range under Free People Movement in early 2023 which turned its fans into collectors — including streetwear style aficionados Hailey Bieber and Kaia Gerber. It is a classic oversized zip-up fleece, but with just enough details to make it stand apart from a crowded roster of outerwear, yet basic enough that one can use time and time again. The cozy, fuzzy jacket has a slouchy cropped silhouette that layers effortlessly with any athleisure wear or laid-back staples for a cool vintage vibe. While the no-fuss button-front closure is designed for the gym or hiking, with all of its patches and pockets, it also goes hand-in-hand while walking with one’s pup, a quick mid-day matcha latte run, as well as the rest of weekly adventures.

REI (Recreational Equipment, Inc.) is a local outdoor co-op brand in the US since 1938. Its Gift Centre has key brands and pieces that inspire people to spend more time in nature with selections from brands like Patagonia, The North Face, Salomon and more. The centre impresses the gorpcore fans with its collections, among which is the lightweight and packable Cotopaxi Fuego hooded down jacket to be worn over chunky knits for balancing the warmth and comfort. Then there are Patagonia’s Better sweater vest and R1 Pullover too. While well-insulated sweater vest comes with moisture-wicking fleece material and versatile “oar tan” colour, the easy-wearing R1 pullover has soft-to-touch feel and comfortable fit which also brings performance wear into the realm of street style. At the same time, Salomon Adv Skin 12 Set Hydration vest can be used for carrying water or energy drinks for long distance runs in woods or city. The North Face Trailwear Lost Coast T-shirt with FlashDry Pro material that wicks moisture and has breathability, and, REI Co-op Stormhenge Down Hybrid jacket for snowboarders and hikers, are among many other such products.

Looking Ahead in 2024

The popularity of outdoor activities has scaled up since the pandemic and its lasting impact on gorpcore segment will continue in 2024 too, with outdoor brands expected to launch crossover lifestyle collections blending technical elements in everyday wardrobe items. On one side, the outdoor specialist companies will move into everyday lifestyle products, while on the other side, luxury brands will move into permanent collections in the outdoors category. The sales of high-end brands such as The North Face may eat up sales of luxury brands due to escalated price points across some outdoor categories when they will attempt matching their offering. At the same time, the brands known for durability and utility are expected to shoot up in popularity with cash-strapped consumers amidst the cost-of-living crisis, invoking competition between outdoor brands and other apparel segments. There is an additional trend expected wherein the gorpcore may evolve into ‘quiet outdoor’ and follow the ‘quiet luxury’ aesthetics since the consumers will be looking for technical fabrics and performance albeit with minimal logos and less flashy branding. Consumers will be looking for styles that can be worn in both urban and outdoor environments.

References

1. https://rvbusiness.com/winnebago-survey-shows-growing-outdoor-activity/

2. https://naturalengland.blog.gov.uk/2022/05/18/people-and-nature-survey-how-has-covid-19-changed-the-way-we-engage-with-nature/

3. https://www.mymypanda.com/china-cbec-meets-china-outdoor-market-trends/

4. https://www.modernretail.co/marketing/gorpcore-brands-are-becoming-more-mainstream/

5. https://stockx.com/about/sx-market-insights/big-facts-brands-making-moves-2/