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Show Director Interfiliere Hong Kong
What are the major trends in terms of fabrics, colour & prints, style & fits, trims & accessories for A/W 2019?
We analysed these trends through socio-cultural signs. The first macro trend would be a 'Loving Voice', celebrating all bodies and skin tones, all differences and emphasising the natural and inclusivity. Its colour range is an array of skin tone colours, from pastel to deeper pink/skin/nude tones-natural, vaporous and fluid materials, with specific hand work and know how such as lace or embroidery.
A second voice is the 'Emancipated' one, speaking about a new feminism and casual seduction. Lingerie blurs the boundaries with ready-to-wear, easy-to-wear or as an accessory in the outfit, through superposition of layers. Colour palette includes light bluish greys and lavender tones.
The third voice is a 'Bold' one, with strong identity, colour-built shapes, contrasts and a clear influence of sports and a search for multi-functionality, simplicity but also creativity and innovation. Comfortable, stretch fabrics and elastics play an important role.
The last voice trending is, quite instinctively, the 'Natural Voice', speaking about balance, harmony and concerns about the society and environment. Tones are light and vaporous pinks, purple, grass and bluish greens. We go back to natural and light materials, vintage prints or embellishments, natural dyes mixed with one another. We ask transparency about the ingredients and manufacturing process, chemicals and products used.
Please share with us details of the trend forecast discussed in the Creativ' Lab at the show.
There are six main trends we can draw inspiration from, the first being Nature's Ornaments, inspired from natural, graphical (webs, veins, crackles) in the earth and nature's colours. The second would be Modern Seduction, influenced by streetwear, with strong contrasts and motifs, coming in shades of red, black and nude. Thirdly, we talked about the New Bodyfashion Wardrobe, from athleisure to streetwear, multi-functionality being the key, in a mix of natural and very technical fabrics, including coatings. Unpredictability comes next, inspired from Gucci for instance, with a craziness in patterns mix and multiple colours. Romanticism then, in nude and light colours, with surface effects and new materials or vintage effect. And finally Making, Keeping, Reusing, inspired by the new bio-economy, this trend being dominated by natural or cozy knits and materials.
What are the macro consumer trends in innerwear and swimwear globally? Any specific trends in Asia?
The key trend in lingerie and swim is the EASY to WEAR.
The sublimated body, the famous 90-60-90 that rocked a whole generation is now out. The lingerie sector goes even further towards more fluidity, more freedom of the body, less built-in and structured, simpler, multi-functional and with maximum comfort, without losing any of the fashion aspect. There is no limitation of genre, style, rhythm. From now on, the practical and comfort aspects become the primary criteria of purchase.
This translates into minimalist looks, linear cuts, without details. The work of the cut is the main design. We see ranges inspired by neutrals and shades of grey for easy-to-combine shades.
In Asia specifically, some brands like Voiment or Neiwai follow this trend well. Asian morphologies also allow the better development of this trend. We have also noted that in Asia, and more particularly in China, the promise made by the impact of the product on the health is key to consumers.
Do you see the incorporation of smart textiles and artificial intelligence (AI) in innerwear?
Indeed, we see. For instance, some elastic bands or fabrics changing colour with the body temperature, or T-shirts embedding smart technology to monitor heart rate, posture and other parameters. There is also a company manufacturing a polyester that can be washed with water only at normal temperature, without any chemicals. In a more anecdotic trend, we see some male underwear built in with materials blocking any kind of waves. This will grow for sure in the coming years as technological developments enable innovations to be embedded within fibres or very thin fabrics.
How are concepts like sustainability and blockchain placed at the show? What percentage of innerwear at the show is sustainable?
Eco-responsibility and transparency are already at the heart of the concerns of lingerie and swimsuits and fashion brands more broadly. As the textile sector is highly criticised for these aspects, brands are already working on these at the product level and also in terms of their communication around these commitments.
At Interfiliere Hong Kong this year-and it is a steady trend in our Asian shows-half of the exhibiting companies have developed a sustainable range or invested in a sustainable manufacturing process. This year we invited Redress to moderate a panel on 'design for recyclability-Can the intimates sector reach circularity?', and SuPPPort to talk about 'Future Fibres and Fabrics, materials that will change the fashion industry'. Both conferences were full, which shows the importance of these exchanges.
In addition, as I briefly explained above, we have introduced to the public the project we are currently working on in Indonesia. It is a public-private partnership programme with a German ministry. We are working hand in hand with four major Indonesian lingerie manufacturers, who all have already committed to a more sustainable body fashion manufacturing industry, and who were exhibitors at the show-Kewalram, Sipatatex, BusanaRemajaAgracipta and WSK-and are also part of the projects involved with the Indonesian Textile Association or AsosiasiPertekstilan Indonesia (API ) and the Maranatha University in Bandung. The objectives of the projects are to support these four companies in their sustainability efforts, including optimising the use of resources, minimising solid waste and creating circular loops. It also aims at spreading best practices across the whole textile industry, and hence the invaluable participation of API and Maranatha University to help us reach out to more current and future industry players.
Sustainability is not an option, neither for the consumer nor for the industry. (HO)
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