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Interview with Edu Uribesalgo

Edu Uribesalgo
Edu Uribesalgo
Innovation Director, Sustainability Director & Co-Founder
Ternua
Ternua

Our ambition is to be a reference brand in sustainable innovation
Ternua is an active brand that inspires people with an adventurous soul and outdoor spirit to connect with nature. The Spanish outdoor brand is committed to sustainable innovation that protects the planet and people with a symbol that represents the relationship and respect between the two, their logo, the whale tail. It belongs to the European Outdoor Group, which includes the most important outdoor and mountaineering brands in the world, who collaborate constructively and positively in promoting the common interests of the European outdoor sector. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Innovation Director, Sustainability Director & Co-Founder Edu Uribesalgo talks about innovation and circularity in the outdoor apparel industry.

How is the outdoor apparel industry adapting to the increasing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products, and what innovative solutions or materials are being introduced to address this challenge?

At Ternua, we have been working in this direction for a long time, utilising materials with a lower environmental impact and developing durable products that serve as reliable companions on your adventures. Through our focus on technology and quality, our products do not need to be replaced as frequently. Like many other brands in the outdoor apparel industry, we are actively striving to reduce the impact of our products. This involves using recycled or organic materials and minimising water and energy consumption during production processes.
We are fortunate to collaborate with excellent partners who enable us to tackle these challenges. Numerous innovative solutions are available, such as post-consumer recycled cotton for garments and bed sheets, which retains the same colour as recycled garments and drastically reduces water and chemical usage. Additionally, we utilise post-consumer recycled polyester for garments, renewable anti-odour treatments (mint and coffee), fabrics that reduce energy consumption by 50 per cent during production, dyeing methods that utilise agricultural waste or minerals instead of chemical dyes, recycled fishing nets, hemp, mono-material waterproof fabrics, and more.
Our objective is to continue developing functional garments while incorporating circularity principles, with the clear aim of minimising their environmental impact and avoiding waste generation.

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in outdoor experiences and activities. How is the outdoor apparel industry leveraging this trend to drive innovation and create products that cater to the evolving needs of outdoor enthusiasts?

We have been designing outdoor garments since 1994 and from the beginning we have opted for the technicality of our garments, applying sustainable innovation parameters to them. It is a reality that outdoor activities have had a boom in recent years, but we work on the sidelines. We design and manufacture following our brand philosophy, focusing on creating the best product, garments that protect people and nature at the same time, betting on the quality, durability and versatility of our garments, and facing the challenges of the textile industry through eco-design.

Technology advancements such as wearable tech and smart fabrics have started to make their way into the outdoor apparel market. How is the industry embracing these innovations, and what potential benefits do they offer to consumers?

We must take advantage of technological advances in the sector and apply the best technology that is also environmentally friendly to outdoor garments. Industries need to keep an eye on incorporating these new technologies into their offerings. This is precisely what Ternua is doing.

Climate change and extreme weather events have become more prevalent. How is the outdoor apparel industry responding to these challenges by developing innovative products that provide enhanced protection and performance in adverse conditions?

It is true that climate change and extreme weather events have become more prevalent. The climate changes we are observing in recent seasons are no longer as predictable as before. We are witnessing extreme fluctuations, which are clear indications of climate change. In response to this, we at Ternua have a range of highly technical garments that are designed to protect people under these varying circumstances where protection is key.
It is crucial to highlight that we work with top-level athletes – including alpinists, climbers, skiers, and others – who help us understand the most extreme needs one might face in the mountains. Thanks to their input and insights, we are able to develop and manufacture very technical and functional products.
At Ternua, we aim to create garments that are built to last, offering a valuable investment for the consumer. Our products are created using highly innovative and sustainable technology, and due to their features, such as lightness and breathability, they can be used throughout all seasons. This approach allows us to cater to the changing needs of outdoor enthusiasts, regardless of the evolving climate patterns.

E-commerce and online retail have transformed the way consumers shop for outdoor apparel. How is the industry leveraging digital technologies and online platforms to enhance the customer experience, from product discovery to post-purchase support?

In the outdoor market, as in other segments, e-commerce is here to stay. We have different digital channels to show our products to our customers (consumers and stores) and we spend a lot of time and effort creating graphic content so that each garment can be seen and understood, what it is designed for and how it is designed. Being a technical product, our clients are interested in knowing the properties of the garments and our job is to transmit all this information through our digital channels. Likewise, we believe that the value of physically going to a store, trying on the product, touching it, reading the labels and living that experience is fundamental in our sector.

Can you tell us about Ternua’s approach to innovation and how it aligns with the company’s overall strategy?

Innovation is a strategic pillar and a significant area of investment at Ternua Group. It is seen as a journey, a process of continuous evolution that needs to persist and be consistent to yield significant results. The outcomes achieved through our investment in innovation over the years have enabled both Ternua and the Ternua Group (TG) as a whole to make a substantial leap in value creation.
Our advancements in developing environmentally friendly collections and various co-creation projects led by our innovation team have played a pivotal role. These projects, in which more than 2,400 athletes have participated, have given us a unique opportunity to understand the needs and concerns of our users in depth. These insights then feed into our ongoing innovation process, allowing us to create products that align closely with our customers’ needs while also minimising environmental impact.

What role does sustainability play in your brand’s innovation efforts, and how does the company integrate environmental considerations into its product development process?

One of the challenges we have in the innovation department is to give the most sustainable response possible to TG’s value proposal and we are in a constant search for healthier alternatives to the ones we use to see how we can reduce our impact. In addition to the selection of more recycled, recyclable and organic fabrics and materials, we are constantly working on three aspects that have a considerable impact on the environmental footprint of a product. First is the circularity of our products, i.e., designing products taking into account their end of life, so that they can be recycled and do not become waste that ends up in a landfill or incinerated, analysing each stage of the process to reduce water, energy and the chemicals. Second, the durability and longevity of our products, which we can influence by focusing on the quality of our manufacturing and fabrics. And thirdly, the multifunctional versatility of our products. By ensuring that the consumer can wear the garment in different sporting activities, we reduce the number of products they need in their wardrobe.

Ternua’s website mentions a commitment to ‘Circular Economy’ principles. Could you elaborate on how these principles are implemented in your innovation initiatives?

  • We have redefined our standard commitment and acquired new commitments:
  • 100% of the collections of all our brands will comply with the group’s commitment. They will be designed, developed and manufactured under circular principles. That is, they will be recycled, recyclable or biodegradable.
  • 100% of the polyester will be recycled
  • 100% of the polyamide will be recycled or bio-based
  • 100% of our cotton will be organic or recycled
  • 100% of our wool will be responsible, RWS, GOTS or recycled
  • 100% of our down will be responsible, RDS or recycled.
  • We will integrate the principles of the circular economy into the business as a whole, considering the impact of our corporate decisions on the team, customers, suppliers, the community and the environment with the aim of avoiding and reducing resources and avoiding and reducing waste.
  • For example, at our TG Faktoria, the company where we manufacture Lorpen socks and Ternua base layers, we have managed to turn the waste we generate in the manufacture of our products into soundproofing insulators for the automotive and construction industries, preventing them from ending up in a landfill.
  • Through the certification of the group’s new code of conduct, it will be ensured that suppliers will meet the minimum expectations regarding their social and environmental impacts.

Tell us about your collaboration with external partners, such as research institutions or technology providers, to foster innovation and stay at the forefront of the outdoor apparel industry?

Over the years, we have established a broad ecosystem of partners and collaborated with various entities on different research projects. Ternua Group is a company that has innovation in its DNA. Since its inception, innovation has been the key differentiating factor for the company, with ‘technology’ and ‘sustainability’ serving as the primary driving forces behind it. We have a clear Innovation Strategy in place, with ambitious objectives and a set of indicators to measure our progress.
Innovation is deeply ingrained in our approach as we strive to bring the future into the present. Ternua Group is actively engaged in numerous projects that will enable us to maintain our innovative edge in the market.

In what ways do you engage with customers or end-users during the innovation process to ensure their needs and preferences are incorporated into product design and development?

We develop our Protech and Adrenalite collections together with our ambassadors (mountain climbers and athletes). They help us define the needs and improvements that we can bring to the current product or ideas for the development of new products. We also interact with end customers in mountain trials with whom we collaborate. With the registration, a garment that fits with the activity of the trial is delivered. The athletes test the garment for 4-5 months in different activities and through a questionnaire, we collect their answers to a series of questions, and we collect suggestions for improvement. In case of a positive feedback, the garment can be part of future collections.

Can you provide examples of recent innovative products or technologies that Ternua has introduced to the market and how they have positively impacted the company’s performance?

We can talk about our singular projects, which are those that are developed locally, with the aim of working with our community, providing a solution to a problem, usually related to waste:
  • Redcycle project – 12,000 kg of discarded fishing nets were collected from the Basque country ports with the help of our fishermen, and these were converted into technical pants, avoiding them finishing in a landfill or in the sea.
  • Colorcycle – 600 kg of nutshells were collected together with our local cider houses and these were converted into colourant that we used to dye T-shirts and sweatshirts.
  • Latxa article – we have a local sheep breed that produces around 2,000,000 kg per year of wool that have no use at all, as it is very difficult and costs money to the shepherds. We managed to transform this unused wool into insulation material for our jackets.
  • Wearcycle – we collected 2,000 kg of discarded 100 per cent cotton bedsheets from a local laundry that washes bedsheets for hospitals and hotels. We converted these bedsheets into a collection of T-shirts and sweatshirts, avoiding them from ending in a landfill or incinerated.
  • Since 2013, we only use recycled down in our products.
  • We started to eliminate PFCs in 2009 and we completely limited them in 2018.
  • We are using natural anti-odour treatments made using coffee grounds and mint.
All these projects have been very important and have given big value to Ternua as it shows that with determination and with the correct partners, waste could be converted to premium raw material, thus giving it a new life to become new products.

Ternua operates in a highly competitive market. How does the company differentiate itself from other companies offering similar products?

We have always tried to do things in a different way, giving the same importance to what we do and how we do it. As for the product, we work to offer a different, attractive, functional design but manufactured in a responsible way, from the selection of materials, its design, and where and how we manufacture it. In addition to the product, we take care of our clients, and collaborate in conservation projects like EOCA, WDC, SEOBird Life, beach cleanups etc. We develop products in collaboration with fishermen and shepherds. We also participate in local initiatives in search of a common strategy on different issues. Furthermore, we collaborate with schools, universities, young designers, and emerging brands. We also organise awareness and sensitisation initiatives through talks and workshops. We want to reduce the negative impact of our activity while increasing our positive impact on society.

How do you leverage data to identify market trends, consumer insights, and potential areas for innovation?

In our R&D department, we are constantly seeking new materials and technologies that align with our brand philosophy, prioritising natural and sustainable options. We actively listen to feedback from our sales representatives, consumers, and ambassadors to enhance our offerings. Additionally, we collaborate with top-tier suppliers who are at the forefront of launching cutting-edge technologies, which we then integrate into our products. This approach allows us to identify market needs and consumer preferences, enabling us to develop products that address these demands effectively.

Ternua emphasises a commitment to social responsibility. Could you share any innovative initiatives or projects undertaken by the company that have had a positive social impact beyond the scope of its products?

As a result of the creation and development of the Redcycle and Latxa article singular projects, we are part of the group working on a Basque Country strategy about marine litter and latxa sheep wool solutions, where we transfer all the knowledge acquired during all these years research. The idea is to work on a common solution towards these 2 topics:
  • The utilisation of the 2,000,000 kg of latxa sheep wool, generated very year, that has no value at all today.
  • Analysing the possibility of creating an industry to extract value from the 1,000 tons of discarded fishing nets generated by our tuna fishing floats every year, which currently have no value at all.

Looking to the future, what are Ternua’s key priorities and ambitions in terms of innovation, and how does the company plan to stay ahead of emerging trends and technologies in the outdoor apparel industry?

Our ambition is to be a reference brand in sustainable innovation. Our priority is to create better, more functional and durable products, being aware of emerging technologies and new trends and advancing in their circularity. The product objectives that we have set for 2026 are very ambitious and I am sure that those that we will set for 2030 will be even more. This means constantly asking ourselves, in all areas of the company and in every aspect, how can we do better what we are doing today, putting what we do on the same scale as how we do it.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 23/06/2023

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.