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Interview with Amar Nagaram

Amar Nagaram
Amar Nagaram
Co-founder and CEO
Virgio
Virgio

Virgio is all about eco-conscious fabrics for a greener fashion game
Virgio is an innovative circular fashion brand from India, creating trendy, eco-friendly apparel for the conscious generation. With a focus on sustainable materials and ethical production, the brand offers a unique blend of style and environmental responsibility, catering to the dynamic lifestyle of young, eco-aware consumers. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Co-founder and CEO Amar Nagaram talks about sustainability in the Indian fashion industry.

How do you see the current trends in sustainable and circular fashion evolving in the next five years, and what role will technology play in this evolution?

Over the next five years, sustainable and circular fashion is set for significant growth, driven by heightened consumer awareness and tech advancements. Thrifting and low-impact lifestyles are on the rise, signalling a shift towards better choices.
Tech-backed smarter transparent supply chains and on-demand production will cut waste. Overall, technology will be a key driver, bringing positive change and fostering a more sustainable fashion future. There is a need for the entire ecosystem, including manufacturers, retail brands, and consumers, to actively participate for a holistic change.
 

In your opinion, how has consumer awareness and demand for sustainable fashion changed in recent years, and what impact is this having on the mainstream fashion industry?

Consumer awareness and demand for sustainable fashion have surged, prompting a notable shift in the industry towards ethical and eco-friendly practices. Informed consumers now seek transparency in supply chains and prefer brands committed to sustainability. This shift is driving mainstream fashion brands to reevaluate their approaches, adopt sustainable measures, and prioritise transparency to meet evolving consumer expectations.
Consumers are embracing responsible consumption, prioritising quality over quantity and supporting second-hand markets. This shift is fostering innovation in eco-friendly materials and ethical production methods.

What are the most significant challenges that fashion brands face when transitioning to more sustainable and ethical practices, and how can these be effectively addressed?

Transitioning to sustainable practices in the fashion industry comes with its share of challenges. One significant hurdle is the higher cost associated with eco-friendly materials and production methods. Brands need to navigate these financial challenges through investments in research, technology, and scaling up sustainable practices. Supply chain complexities add another layer, requiring transparency and traceability. Collaborating with ethical suppliers and leveraging technologies like blockchain can streamline this process.
Then there is the challenge of consumer awareness. Many shoppers are not fully informed about the benefits of sustainable choices. Brands need to invest in educational campaigns to bridge this gap. Fast-paced production cycles and trend pressures contribute to overconsumption and waste.
Collaboration is key. Stakeholders, including brands, manufacturers, and policymakers, must work together. Regulatory support, incentives for sustainability, and industry-wide initiatives are vital for a successful transition towards greater sustainability and ethical responsibility. The journey to sustainability is complex, but with collective efforts, the industry can pave the way for a more responsible and conscious future.

How does the rise of fast fashion impact the global push towards sustainability, and what strategies could potentially mitigate its negative effects?

Fast fashion’s rapid production and consumption contribute significantly to environmental degradation. To mitigate these effects, promoting conscious fashion, encouraging responsible consumer behaviour, and emphasising quality over quantity are essential. Brands can adopt sustainable practices, and consumers can make conscious choices, collectively reducing the environmental impact of fast fashion. Encouraging circular fashion practices, such as recycling, upcycling, and garment resale, can mitigate the environmental impact of fast fashion. Researching and developing sustainable materials such as bio-based textiles and recycled materials can be used as alternatives in fast fashion.

What role do you believe government policies and international regulations should play in promoting sustainable practices within the fashion industry?

Government policies and global regulations play a vital role in driving sustainability in the fashion industry. By setting clear standards for ethical sourcing, fair labour, and environmental impact, legislation can spur positive change. Regulations on waste reduction, water use, and chemicals can transform industry practices. Stricter transparency laws enhance accountability, inspiring better processes and materials.
Taking cues from the food industry, where ingredient details are crucial, the fashion sector can prioritise transparency for informed consumer choices. Government support through funding and tax incentives for sustainable research and development is essential. International collaboration encourages sharing best practices and elevating global sustainability standards. Ultimately, a strong regulatory framework aligns economic incentives with ethical practices, fostering a more conscious and sustainable fashion industry.

What inspired you to start Virgio, and how do you envision its impact on the Indian fashion industry and global sustainability efforts?

Working with the fashion and e-commerce industry for years opened my eyes to the glaring gaps in the fashion landscape. The fast fashion industry is at par with the emerging trends and caters to the demands of the young audiences. But in the pursuit of catering to the fads, it ends up over-producing garments with partners that do not practice fair trade. That is the reason, the fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world just after the oil industry.
This prodded me to think on how we can build a stronger eco-system that promotes responsible fashion without compromising on trends for the young generation and how we can leverage tech to make fashion better. We are putting all our might to this mission and coming up with small and big steps to make a difference.
At Virgio, we are making trendy fashion come alive in natural fabrics with certified and ethical partners. We are challenging the hitherto notion of trend based fashion to be unsustainable and sustainable fashion to be expensive.
Our efforts range from transparently declaring the water, energy, carbon footprint on each garment page to replacing the 4-5 polyester based labels on garments with 1 smart QR code label that carries rich information on styling, manufacturing and more. Even our delivery bags are designed to be used as carry bags.
Each small and big step is done to pave the way for consumers to be more informed of their clothes, and the industry to see how we can cater to young consumers even by following circularity.

What are some of the biggest challenges you have faced in creating a circular fashion brand, and how have you overcome them?

Circular fashion in India is in its early days and dealing with many hurdles – from a lack of awareness among consumers, manufacturers, and retailers to the simplicity and speed of fast fashion drawing everyone in. Big manufacturers are taking some sustainable steps, but the smaller players are struggling. Implementation costs, compliance, and certifications add up, and sustainable materials are pricey and hard to come by.
Working with limited partners at this stage means either facing challenges with expensive, small batches or promoting overproduction with large ones, making the whole cycle difficult to manage. Skills needed for fashion that clicks with the younger crowd are not quite up to par with smaller suppliers. Brands, even some riding the fast fashion wave, are hesitant to change due to profit concerns and the need for big infrastructure shifts. Limited regulations and incentives make circular practices less attractive for businesses.
Even on the demand side, consumers are primarily focused on new trends, often not fully aware of the environmental impact. Moreover, greenwashing by fast fashion brands is further obscuring the understanding of true sustainability.
To tackle these challenges, we have got our own design squad keeping things trendy, and we are teaming up with Indian supply chain partners who share our values. Our partners are also on the journey of learning along with us! On the consumer side, we are spreading the word through trusted voices to make sure everyone gets why our approach adds real value to them.

How does Virgio cater to the unique needs and preferences of the GenConscious, and what sets your brand apart in appealing to this demographic?

We are building a community of GenConscious consumers – users who are aware and willing to adopt conscious living. But this community is also socially active and has to dress the part for various occasions. It is difficult for them to compromise on their style and follow conscious fashion if it does not fit their lifestyle. Most circular or sustainable brands are either too expensive or do not offer young, fun styles that resonate with their personal style. At Virgio, by marrying trends with conscious making processes, we are fitting their lifestyle seamlessly.
At Virgio, we recognise that conscious consumers prioritise transparency, sustainability, and style. Our brand stands out by delivering trendy designs without compromising on ethical and environmental considerations. We actively engage with our audience, incorporating their feedback into our designs and practices, thus creating a brand that resonates with their values.

Can you elaborate on the choice of eco-conscious fabrics like cotton, linen, viscose, lyocell, and Modal over traditional materials? How does this choice align with Virgio’s sustainability goals?

Virgio is all about eco-conscious fabrics for a greener fashion game. Think cotton, linen, viscose, lyocell, and Modal—they are renewable, biodegradable, and need fewer resources to make. We are dead set on reducing our products’ ecological footprint and making our offerings better with each drop.
When it comes to picking fabrics, we have got the community and the planet as our priority. We do not promote or use synthetic fibres — the petroleum-based, plastic-based fabrics are harmful for the wearer and the planet.
Natural fabrics are biodegradable, meaning they break down naturally, causing less harm to our environment compared to stubborn synthetics like polyester and are earth-friendly in terms of carbon too. They leave a smaller footprint by emitting fewer greenhouse gases during cultivation and processing, unlike the energy-hungry polyester. Plus, they are comfortable, more breathable, long lasting and just a lot more premium, making them the obvious choice for us. In our circular model, these natural fabrics mean we are designing long-lasting products, reducing replacements, and cutting down on waste.

Could you shed light on how Virgio collaborates with ethical manufacturers in India, and what measures are in place to ensure social responsibility at every production step?

Virgio collaborates with ethical manufacturers in India by conducting thorough assessments of their production practices. We prioritise partnerships with manufacturers who adhere to fair labour practices, employ women workforces, ensure safe working conditions, follow environmental regulations and have certifications for the same. Regular audits and transparent communication with our manufacturing partners are key measures in maintaining social responsibility at every step of the production process.
Even though there is a long way to go, the Indian fashion industry is seeing a shift from conventional practices towards more sustainable manufacturing practices. Many bigger export houses have resorted to environment and people friendly practices such as sourcing locally, switching to renewable energy, energy and water efficient manufacturing plants, using eco-friendly packaging materials, reducing/recycling waste, fair wages, good working conditions etc. Several fabric mills use only sustainable raw material, have set up effluent treatment plants to clean and reuse the wastewater after processing the fabrics, responsible handling of waste, and reducing use of toxic chemicals. We are constantly working on building a strong supply chain with such like-minded partners.

Your collections feature unique themes like ‘Born to Shine’ and ‘Wild Romance’. Can you discuss the creative process behind these collections and how they reflect Virgio’s ethos?

Each collection at Virgio is a result of a creative process that blends current fashion trends with our commitment to circularity. Themes like ‘Born to Shine’ and ‘Wild Romance’ reflect our ethos by incorporating elements of nature like water, earth and air while showcasing the urban-chic styles.
Collections like ‘Born to Shine’ spotlight bold fashion, perfect for those who love to make statements. ‘Wild Romance’ celebrates a love affair with nature’s beauty through botanical prints set against sultry undertones. ‘IDGAF’ is a riot of colours and playful prints for the irresistibly confident. ‘The Safari Edit’ combines earthy hues with animal prints, merging untamed allure with contemporary style. ‘Cityscapes’ pays tribute to the modern city girl with chic outfits. ‘Whims and Fancies’ brings flowy silhouettes and imaginative prints for free-spirited fashion enthusiasts. ‘Newtro Twist’ infuses retro-inspired prints into contemporary designs, offering a blend of timeless charm and modern style.

How does Virgio maintain an accessible price point while ensuring high-quality, sustainable production?

Virgio prioritises efficiency in the supply chain, works directly with ethical manufacturers, and focuses on minimising waste throughout the production process. We also handle end to end operations on our own – right from sourcing fabrics to manufacturing it with partners which ensures costs are optimised at every level. By streamlining operations and making strategic choices in material sourcing, we can maintain an accessible price point without compromising on the quality and sustainability of our products.

Why is transparency about carbon, energy, and water footprint important to Virgio, and how do you think this influences consumer choices?

In the fashion world, disclosure about a garment’s environmental footprint is a bit of a grey area due to the lack of strict regulations. Unfortunately, this evasion comes at a hefty cost for both people and the planet. At Virgio, transparency is our thing because it is our community’s right to know.
We communicate our carbon, energy, and water footprint so people can shop with values that align with theirs. This openness is not just about sharing numbers; it is about building trust, being accountable, and inspiring other brands to follow suit. By doing this, we are playing our part in making the fashion industry a more sustainable place. It is not just about showing our impact; it is about owning it, learning from it, and always striving to do better.

You mentioned the importance of establishing a strong ecosystem for a truly circular brand. What are the key elements of this ecosystem, and how does Virgio contribute to its development?

Right from sourcing eco-friendly materials to collaborating with ethical manufacturers, we are on the journey of building a circular eco-system. We emphasise durability in design for product longevity. Transparency and traceability in the supply chain empower consumers with informed choices. We are innovating continuously to ensure changes in the way industry operates. For example, we have replaced 5-6 polyester labels with 1 smart QR label that leads you to a landing page that contains information on styling, fabric, manufacturing etc.
To reduce our footprint, we have partnered with Carbon Trail to track garment emissions. Our mills uphold fair practices and high standards. Virgio nurtures a holistic sustainability approach, contributing to a circular fashion future.

What are Virgio’s short-term and long-term goals, especially in terms of expansion, innovation, and furthering sustainable practices within the fashion industry?

In the short term, Virgio aims to expand its reach and influence within the circular fashion space with better fabric choice, ethical partner choices and gaining a strong community that resonates with the same pillars.
Long-term goals include continuous innovation in sustainable practices, exploring new eco-friendly materials, and contributing to industry-wide initiatives that promote environmental responsibility. We are also building a strong tech-backed fashion brand to ensure supply and demand are smartly managed to reduce wastage. We aspire to be a catalyst for positive change in the broader fashion industry.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 14/12/2023

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.