Our vision is to contribute to the legacy of Banarasi textiles
Warp ‘n Weft by Sagrika Rai is a global leader in luxury Banarasi textiles, with a 26-year legacy of preserving India’s ancient handloom techniques. The company has cultivated enduring relationships with master weavers, promoting high-end artisanal craftsmanship. Its focus lies in the evolving art of Banarasi weaving and the preservation of treasured heirloom designs. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Founder & Creative Director Sagrika Rai talks about hand-woven textiles, especially Banarasi sarees.
What are some of the current trends and innovations in the textile and craftsmanship industry that you find particularly exciting or noteworthy?
Innovations in textile or rather any industry are key to growth. The savvy digital prints to mechanised jacquards speed up and form the bulk of textile trade for both domestic and export markets. Powerloom enjoys its own position as it promises to replicate traditional and large volumes of production to cater to larger markets and at much cheaper prices and I see many in the industry taking to powerloom for ease of production. In the same breath, I have observed handloom bodies promote powerloom under the same umbrella. It is noteworthy to understand the distinction of heirloom and handloom as our country’s heritage hence, the two must not be intermingled. The regality of the hand-weaves for which our country enjoys mention from Indus to Byzantine,
Imperial to Japanese geographies must not be diluted for pure commercial interests. It is a moment of great pride when not just world fashion houses but also our own home-grown brands add value to our own crafts and techniques and present it to the world with such immaculate attention.
How has technology, such as digital design tools and automation, influenced the traditional processes of textile production and craftsmanship?
In the realm of textile craftsmanship, automation and technology undoubtedly contribute to fast fashion. However, the profound richness of these Banarasi textiles is inherently intertwined with the dedication and expertise of master artisans who have been instrumental in upholding our cherished legacy. It is a universally acknowledged truth that no sophistication and automation in jacquard and digital tools, possesses the capacity to imbue hand-woven textiles with the utmost elegance of human artistry and calibre.
How do you see the rich cultural heritage of handlooms being preserved and integrated into modern practices and designs?
The fashion world today is re-embracing traditional textiles and crafts. This highlights a shift in consumer choices and preference for our rich cultural values. The surge in demand for authentic handmade crafts that resonate with heritage and the resurfacing of native textiles, crafted by skilled artisans, holds deep emotional significance between trends and timelessness. This trend is a reflection on the modern generation and their understanding of not only fast fashion but also cultural fashion, recognising the importance of belief and textiles in their choices. Preserving the tradition of handmade luxury is of paramount importance for our company and future generations, given its exceptional value, design, strength, and unique historical legacy.
What sustainable practices do you believe are most crucial for the future of the textile and craftsmanship sector?
Crafts and cottage industries and their respective communities play a significant role in grassroots climate activism. Prioritising local economies, societies, and environmental sustainability is crucial for effective climate change mitigation. When we consolidate local efforts, we pave the way for global success. Preserving traditional crafts goes hand in hand with securing the livelihoods of the artisans who create them, preserving and conserving not just their skill but ensuring their well-being and upliftment.
How do you expect the ‘Bhartiya Vastra evam Shilpa Kosh’ e-portal launch to impact the marketing of India’s handloom products? Do such government initiatives benefit the handloom sector?
I witnessed Prime Minister Narendra Modi launching the ‘Bhartiya Vastra evam Shilpa Kosh’ e-portal, a repository of textiles and crafts developed by NIFT. During the event, he emphasised that India’s efforts go beyond ‘Local for Vocal’ and aim to provide a global platform.
The introduction of such initiatives not only empowers artisans to showcase their talents but also serves as a source of inspiration for both artisans and the global community. It allows them to engage directly with the world without fear of judgment, signifying the recognition of their dedication and craftsmanship.
Personally, I view the ‘Bhartiya Vastra evam Shilpa Kosh’ as a cutting-edge knowledge hub that encompasses the past, present, and future of textiles and crafts. It is a digital treasure trove filled with research papers, case studies, and theses in these fields. It is my preferred destination for staying updated on the latest developments in the world of Indian textiles and crafts.
What inspired you to focus on preserving the tradition of hand weaving in Banarasi textiles?
Banaras is renowned in Indian history as a flourishing seat of learning. UNESCO recognises it as a centre of arts, culture and creativity. It is one city in the Indian demography where varied cultures meet and grow in tandem, and arts and crafts rise above all heterogeneity. Growing up in Banaras impacted my formative years with nuances of all elements of academia, spirituality, respect for the glorious craftsmanship and a deep understanding of a cultural skill that was and always will be a distinguished art form. My inspiration was and will always be to keep ‘Banarasi’ at the pinnacle of heritage.
In a world where digitisation and machinery are prevalent, how does Warp ‘n Weft maintain the authenticity of hand-woven textiles?
As a brand, we firmly believe in the power of the human touch and recognised the art of handloom as a form of ‘slow luxury’ years ago. We maintain a strong relationship with our artisans, continuously overcoming challenges related to expanding beyond traditional boundaries.
In an industry characterised by disorganisation and manual craftsmanship, we introduced professional Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) within the cottage industry, leveraging technology to enhance our work environment and make precision tasks easier for our artisans.
We innovatively combined yarns to infuse modernity without compromising quality. Our vision is to contribute to the legacy of Banarasi textiles, with the unwavering confidence that we invest in our master craftsmen and our relationship of mutual respect fuelling our brand and its mission.
What sets your brand apart from other brands that work with handloom textiles?
As a proponent of authenticity and quality, I have spent years in preserving and uplifting the artisanal handloom techniques towards sophistication by using the finest natural yarns and methodology. Our mission is clear: to elevate this art form, keeping our talented artisan community at the heart of our institution. We are proud to share our cultural heritage with our discerning audience, and our brand stands to showcase the best of Banarasi craftsmanship. It is an honour to be India’s first GI Authorised Brand for Banarasi Handloom Sarees and Brocades, a testament of our commitment to preserving this esteemed craft.
What do you believe is the signature elegance that distinguishes a Banarasi hand-woven saree from others?
Banarasi sarees stand as elegant and flamboyant, as cultural and as symbolic across eras. The six yards of woven grace are observed as a narrative of our indigenous craftsmanship enjoying a powerful appeal. Each saree is like a piece of history that takes it from yarn to yardage. Historically considered the go-to wedding attire for Indian women, the Banarasi saree also reigns as the festive ensemble of choice, captivating onlookers with its dazzling metallic zari and a vivid interplay of colours.
What truly sets the Banarasi saree apart is its intricate detailing. The signature elegance of this saree lies in its paisley motifs, floral designs, lattice work, and geometric patterns. While lehengas, influenced by the folk traditions of Punjab and Rajasthan, have gained prominence as wedding attire, the allure and symbolic value of the Banarasi saree remain unparalleled.
How do you see Warp ‘n Weft contributing to the global aesthetics of handloom textiles while preserving their native art form?
Warp 'n Weft’s core essence is an unwavering commitment to Banarasi craftsmanship. I started my entrepreneurial journey with a vision to take Banarasi textile back to its lost glory that existed from time immemorial along the Silk Road. This has been and is my sole inspiration even today. I have put all my academic intelligence to bring forth the indigenous craft to the forefront not just in India but also overseas. I collaborate closely with skilled artisans to revitalise the designs of antiquity across a range of textiles, meticulously exploring the motifs and patterns and techniques from Indian archives and taking inspiration from conversations with global fashion houses to create beyond the expected.
Could you share some key accomplishments and milestones of Warp ‘n Weft over the past two decades?
We are humbled to be awarded The New Indian Express Devi Award by Chief Minister, Uttar Pradesh, Yogi Adityanath in 2019, for the “Conservation and sustainability of Banaras handloom with continued employment to artisans for over two decades and taking Banaras beyond Banaras.”
• In 2021, it was a privilege to be the recipient of the Femina Spark Mission Shakti Award by The Government of Uttar Pradesh for empowering women in India through handloom craftsmanship and supporting women’s entrepreneurship within our organisation.
•In 2022, it was an honour to have received Bharat Ratna Ustad Bismillah Khan Vyapar Ratna Award for fostering growth and business opportunities for master craftsmen at Warp ‘n Weft living in rural Banaras.
•It was a privilege to be invited by the Indian Ambassador to Denmark in November 2022 and Indian Ambassador to Italy in December 2022 to showcase our Warp ‘n Weft heritage weaves at the Indian Embassy.
•At an evening of ‘Women in Leadership’ hosted by Ambassador Pooja Kapur with Margrethe Vestager, Executive Vice President, European Commission and Commissioner for Competition on June 1, 2023, in Copenhagen, it was an honour to represent India as a flag bearer of Indian Artisanal Handloom. Along with Madame Margrethe’s eloquent and erudite address on artificial intelligence, digital divide, inclusivity, gender equality and issues pertaining to environment, in a stimulating presence of women ambassadors from 40 countries and women leading change, I presented my point of view on sustainability and the magic of Indian weaves and at the time when nations and continents embrace green technology, our Indian handloom remains sustainable.
•Invited by Embassy of India and Ambassador Dr. Neena Malhotra to showcase the Heritage Heirloom Textiles from Banaras at Accademia di’ Belle Arti in Rome in June 2023 as part of the celebration of 75 years of Indian and Italian diplomatic relationships and confluence of traditions and innovations.
What challenges have you faced in your journey of preserving and promoting handloom textiles, and how did you overcome them?
The journey of Warp ‘n Weft spans over 26 years and began with a profound appreciation for Banarasi textiles. In 1997, as the first in my family to venture into textiles, I needed clarity in thought and belief in the potential of handloom. Back then, the concept of experimental start-ups with extensive hard work and minimal promise of return on investment was still in its infancy. I embraced the challenge of uplifting a community of artists and reviving India’s historic Banarasi heritage. To juggle my multifaceted role as a woman entrepreneur, textile revivalist, and to lead a cluster of master weavers to a vision who had either already taken to or considered alternative professions, I had to remain pivoted to my mission upholding the confidence and the financial stability of my artists. Throughout my journey, I remained rooted to my personal passion breathing new life into the antiquity of handloom, overcoming challenges posed by a parallel industry fuelled by powerlooms and mechanised jacquards.
Could you share your source of inspiration when it comes to designing Banarasi sarees and fabrics?
Our brand’s commitment goes beyond mere commerce. We are deeply rooted in the art of culture and craftsmanship. Our mission is to uphold the strength of fine handwoven Banarasi textiles, seamlessly blending artistry with contemporary fashion. We are not just a marketplace; we foster a profound emotional connection with Banarasi handlooms, urging our audiences to embrace our extraordinary artistry and cultural heritage. Our aim is to offer a taste of the richness of our homeland, where it all began, and we are committed to creating a future from the past where inspirations and aspirations amalgamate bringing the intrinsic details of the yore to modern interpretations.
What initiatives or projects do you have in the pipeline for Warp ‘n Weft in the coming years?
Within our borders and beyond borders, our patrons embrace the contributions of Warp ‘n Weft with pride. We are trendsetters in the space of Banarasi handloom, which is truly our strength like none other. I am genuinely thankful for how the mission has evolved into becoming an ecosystem of artisans and contributors from the cottage industry, men and women, executives, young textile enthusiasts and most of all my own daughter Gaurika Rai, who has come in as the CEO of the company breathing fresh ideas and building on our existing strengths. Humbled with recognition from world fashion leaders, it is now the opportune moment for the Warp ‘n Weft fraternity, to break new ground, earn global collaborations, and ultimately revolutionise the adaptability of heritage handloom once again in the chapter of Indian and world history.
Finally, what message or advice would you like to share with aspiring designers and entrepreneurs who are interested in working with traditional crafts and textiles?
Starting a new venture and building on ideation demands both conviction and patience. A fresh perspective and a change of pace may invite both allies and those less willing to embrace your ideas. While there may be moments of nervousness, with time, you convert this space into your playground, mastering every facet and acquiring a wealth of experiments full of successes and failures. Hence never hesitate to take that crucial first step. Remember, that is just the beginning of your own journey.
20230103183907.png)
