With a nod to modern day sensibilities and a bow to Ghosh’s signature layering this collection delves into old world Hanoi and travels through early 20th Century Saigon, Hong Kong, Beijing, Tokyo, Cambodia and Vietnam. Showcasing   distinctive elements of the colonial orient as well as hybrids that emerged from the era, this artful line translates the period’s martial rigidity and classic staples into modern prêt with creations like the simple Cheongsam dress and the cross body strap iPad cover.

The collection affords extreme feminity against sharp tailored masculine shapes. Perceptible military influences include inspired metallic embellishments, epaulet detail and sharp shoulder styles with brass and buttonhole detailing, curved and long slit cuffs, high collars and delicate interpretations of the soldier’s uniform. Strategically placed silver pinstripe linings and bold colour stories intensify the collection’s androgynous charm. KUG has rendered another sexy assemblage of her fashion uniform – the White collar Shirt, this time playing peek-a-boo from embellished mandarin collar edges.

The vintage appeal of this AW collection is evident in the decayed old gold detail and use of bright embroideries against muted backgrounds that add to the drama of a line dominated by metallic and gold infusions. It continues in the high ruched necks, Japanese inspirations like the bright oriental flower motifs and ikebana installations in prints and embroidery, needle point embroidery inspirations and a colour palette spanning ivory, cream, taupe, rich wine, teal blue, dark anthracite grey, dark smoky blue and deep rich reds.

Skinny inner layers, long lean ion slits and cleaner constructed silhouettes congregate with sinuous flow strengthening Ghosh's repertoire of Signature layering concepts. Gold, blood red, teal heat-pleated fabrics meet raw silk, fine georgettes and crisp cottons with layered embroidery and prints.

While the protagonist is a strikingly attractive Manchu princess, brought up in Japan and served as a spy in the national army during World War II, with a passion for dressing up as a male. The masculine is intercepted at every turn by extreme feminine traits that are playful yet dramatic. She is Half Heroine Half Tomboy.

Kiran Uttam Ghosh