UK designer Saul Nash wins 2022 International Woolmark Prize

An expert jury including Ben Gorham, Carine Roitfeld, Edward Enninful OBE, Ibrahim Kamara, Marc Newson CBE, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, Naomi Campbell, Pieter Mulier, Riccardo Tisci, Shaway Yeh, Sinéad Burke and Tim Blanks selected the winners.

“It’s great to see the continuing shifts in fashion as young dynamic creatives are supported and nurtured across the globe, from Africa to China to the UK. Anyone who knows me will know that I’ve been supporting young talent at every opportunity, so I am very happy to be part of this initiative,” said Naomi Campbell. “Everything about the wool industry is self-supportive. It’s all about partnering the natural resources of the farms with the well-being of their sheep. I am very happy to be involved with Woolmark.”

The International Woolmark Prize this year celebrated the art of play, partnering with the Isamu Noguchi Foundation and Garden Museum. The immersive final showroom in London was inspired by the sculptural playscapes of Isamu Noguchi that offered a radical potential for physical and social interaction, showcasing the seven finalists’ collections with colourful, architectural displays. The showroom also featured two iconic original play sculptures by the artist. Each six-look Merino wool collection was a true celebration of forward-thinking design, with finalists experimenting with textiles, design and responsible business practices to drive change and innovation for a cleaner, brighter future, The Woolmark Company said in a press release.

London-based designer Saul Nash was praised for his modern use of Merino wool, bridging a gap between active solutions and more formal requirements.

“Everyone did a great job and could have been a winner,” said Riccardo Tisci. “But what Saul did,coming from a ballet background to replace lycra with wool was really incredible.”

With a true sense of discovery, this collection exposed Nash to the benefits of Merino wool in activewear, allowing him to develop materials which have enhanced the quality of his designs without compromising their technical DNA. With a focus on minimising waste, and emphasising movement and performance, Nash’s modern interpretation of knitwear challenges preconceived ideas surrounding sportswear.

From South Africa, MMUSOMAXWELL’s winning collection was committed to reducing its environmental impact and upskilling traditional craftsmanship.

“When you meet certain people you immediately have love at first sight,” explained Carine Roitfeld. “I love what MMUSOMAXWELL is doing and how they explain their work. They have a dream and what they are doing is not just for South Africa, but for a modern, western woman. I think Karl would have loved to have spoken with them today and am sure he would be very happy to give this award to them.”

Sourcing local raw materials and end-to-end production, MMUSOMAXWELL took an artisanal approach to its collection. Each item promotes slow and small batch production through use of local artisans to counteract the over-consumption pandemic and allows for greater product traceability. The jury praised the design duo for their passion, courage and commitment to introducing a new skill set to South African manufacturers.

Celebrating an outstanding contribution by a trade partner, this year’s Supply Chain Award was presented to Netherlands-based Knitwear Lab. A research and knowledge hub for innovative, design-driven and sustainable knitwear solutions, Knitwear Lab was recognised for its contribution to the International Woolmark Prize and for giving access to technology and R&D in flat-bed knitting to emerging brands in a way that is specific to their needs. Standout developments include innovative 100 per cent Merino wool fabrics developed with winner Saul Nash - such as a compression wool hybrid jersey/airtex mesh knit or a double-faced jersey with integrated mesh holes - offering high stretch, strength and breathability. These breakthrough fabrics allowed Saul Nash to bring his vision to life. Knitwear Lab also further developed its relationship with finalist Ahluwalia, exploring her concept of Nollywood through innovative knitwear true to the Ahluwalia brand.

The seven finalists for this year’s award are Ahluwalia, United Kingdom; EGONLAB, France; Jordan Dalah, Australia; MMUSOMAXWELL, South Africa; Peter Do, USA; RUI, China; and Saul Nash, United Kingdom. Each showcased a commitment to upholding the prize’s pillars of product excellence, innovation, supply chain transparency, sustainability and inclusivity.

The Woolmark Company’s Innovation Academy has provided finalists with a robust education and mentoring program, offering unparalleled access to International Woolmark Prize partners, manufacturers and mentors across the supply chain that have supported the designers’ product development, research, business and sustainability strategies. The programme fosters more meaningful and sustainable product outcomes for both the designer and the manufacturer. In addition, each finalist has completed a common objective sustainability policies and Roadmap as part of a commitment to better industry practices.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RR)