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Peter Jensen at London Fashion Week

13
Feb '07
This season inspiration comes courtesy of 16th century beauty, Christine of Denmark. Princess, niece of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, child bride of the Duke of Milan and a force to be reckoned with: this girl is a no-nonsense muse. Holbein's portrait of Christine is the starting point for the collection, informing every aspect, from the frill collar and cuffs worn throughout to the casting.

Christine's arrival marks a slightly tougher turn for the Peter Jensen woman, but this being Jensen, it is a very idiosyncratic look at power dressing. Ball gowns are cut in utilitarian nylon and layered with knitted snoods and capes and scarves in cosy angora and merino; a wool army poncho is a scaled-up replica of an Action Man outfit and coats are belted with leather chains. Corduroys and Harris tweeds are cut on the bias - a technique first used by the Duke of Milan's family – giving them a luxurious twist.

The sombre palette of black, greys and dark greens is brightened with flashes of teal and ruby lifted straight from Holbein's paintings. Silks printed with a magical fairytale scene and cut in pleated skirts and frilled dresses provide a touch of signature playfulness.

For evening things take a more sophisticated turn with cocktail dresses in black chiffon, regal velvet and satin with the odd chain-mail knit and plenty of jewellery thrown in for a dash of renaissance chic. The look is clean and strong: with sturdy and with lace-up shoes and hiking socks to finish the look, these girls are ready for anything.

The Jensen man is, as ever, slightly nerdy but this time with a touch of glamour introduced by satin trimmed tuxedo worn with oversized bow ties. Elsewhere a crepe de chine shirt is teamed with a knitted superman cape and cords and a bias check jackets is teamed with cosy knits and crowned with a woolly hat: looks fit for any king.

Peter Jensen


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