Peter Jensen at London Fashion Week

13 Feb '07

2 min read

This season inspiration comes courtesy of 16th century beauty, Christine of Denmark. Princess, niece of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, child bride of the Duke of Milan and a force to be reckoned with: this girl is a no-nonsense muse. Holbein's portrait of Christine is the starting point for the collection, informing every aspect, from the frill collar and cuffs worn throughout to the casting.

Christine's arrival marks a slightly tougher turn for the Peter Jensen woman, but this being Jensen, it is a very idiosyncratic look at power dressing. Ball gowns are cut in utilitarian nylon and layered with knitted snoods and capes and scarves in cosy angora and merino; a wool army poncho is a scaled-up replica of an Action Man outfit and coats are belted with leather chains. Corduroys and Harris tweeds are cut on the bias - a technique first used by the Duke of Milan's family – giving them a luxurious twist.

The sombre palette of black, greys and dark greens is brightened with flashes of teal and ruby lifted straight from Holbein's paintings. Silks printed with a magical fairytale scene and cut in pleated skirts and frilled dresses provide a touch of signature playfulness.

For evening things take a more sophisticated turn with cocktail dresses in black chiffon, regal velvet and satin with the odd chain-mail knit and plenty of jewellery thrown in for a dash of renaissance chic. The look is clean and strong: with sturdy and with lace-up shoes and hiking socks to finish the look, these girls are ready for anything.

The Jensen man is, as ever, slightly nerdy but this time with a touch of glamour introduced by satin trimmed tuxedo worn with oversized bow ties. Elsewhere a crepe de chine shirt is teamed with a knitted superman cape and cords and a bias check jackets is teamed with cosy knits and crowned with a woolly hat: looks fit for any king.

Peter Jensen

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