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Riccardo Tisci's men's collection reflects confident masculinity
03
Mar '09
Givenchy's chief designer Riccardo Tisci has produced his very first men'swear collection for Givenchy's Spring/Summer 2009 season. He thereby assumes creative direction for all of the illustrious fashion house's ready-to-wear activities, providing greater coherence.

About this first ever men's collection he raved: “The collection is structured around the figure of the self-assured man. I have taken my inspiration from my many travels through South America: my clothes bear the imprint of the sense of pride, bearing and attitude distinctive to Latin men.”

A clear return to his roots for the southern Italian-born designer who is looking to transpose to menswear the ambivalence and even antagonism of his brilliant collections for women: “masculine and feminine, romanticism and a bold freedom, strength and fragility, black and white.”

Contrasting inspirations, uncovered in the course of his travels in Argentina, Brazil and Cuba. A spellbinding tour in which the designer was astonished to see “boys confident enough in their appearance and their sexuality to wear a broderie anglaise shirt and their hair in a high ponytail while remaining the epitome of virility.” Confident masculinity then, with clothing tailored to fit a particularly sculpted, well-built physique is what has been achieved through the new collection.

Tisci added: “The new style is far removed from the looks that have been gracing the catwalks recently: gymnasts' bodies, muscle tone worthy of a Bruce Weber or Herb Ritts photograph, Pasolinian anti-heroes. I am not looking to dress men as women, but rather offer them a viable wardrobe that serves them equally well in any situation: classic suits that seem to have come straight from the atelier of a traditional Neapolitan tailor, as well as T-shirts and leather trousers for the weekend.”

Thus he has created a wardrobe for men “whose beauty has a hint of menace.” These are “real men”, in the words of the designer, who names Snoop Dog or Johnny Depp as possible brand ambassadors.

Givenchy products are available at select Rodeo Drive outlets in the UAE.

Givenchy


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