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3D or form finishing technology to be highlighted at IMB 2009

29 Jan '09
6 min read

Digital programming helps in achieving consistent quality levels for different materials providing control on all aspects such as temperature, steam time, steam-air time, air time, steam and air volumes and directional flow. Specialised fans can help with speedy drying of the fabric. Vacuum areas can help hold specific parts of the garment in place whilst loading the form.

Programmable and adjustable seam tensioning devices can help minimise seam puckering. As to say preset or library stored variations of process data build the backbone of an always constant reproducible finishing quality, easy to access via touchscreen by symbols or other language independent electronic information - user friendly. Anti stretch mechanisms can help to hold the garments in shape without applying any additional stress to the stretch, a feature particularly useful for fabrics that are blended with elastanes. Pneumatic sleeve clamps which hold the sleeves from inside, at different angles, can help in better finishing of the arm holes and sleeves. Drive mechanisms can control waistband and leg tensioners to ensure the precise tension on the trouser waistband and the legs thereby achieving the required measurements. The actual measurements may also be recorded and stored automatically on an external PC for further quality control analysis. If slightly out of tolerance an optional re-stretching function can help in the size correction by the use of additional steam. Adjustable height functionality makes loading and finishing of varying dress and shirt lengths simple.

In general, a pressing machine, whether vertical or horizontal, consists of both upper and lower bucks that come in contact with each other to press the garment with steam and air, thereby shaping and finishing the garment. As raised areas such as seams are the most vulnerable to pressure damage they may also use special padding and head covering to maintain even pressure over the different thicknesses of the garment.

Microprocessor controls enable total control of top and bottom heat, steam and pressure, whilst enhanced vacuum chambers may be incorporated to promote efficient drying and cooling of the garment. Air blowing allows the garment to float on a cushion of air during the finishing process. Auxiliary bucks may be used for difficult areas of the garment. As the shape, style and fit of tailored garments keep changing according to the needs of end customer the shape of the buck and heads must be able to accommodate the respective changes in styles, shapes and fit.

Thus easily interchangeable heads and bucks with modular format ensure for flexibility of product and fabric types. Even specially designed ladies bucks with inflatable bust are now available. As the bust is inflated the chest point moves tangentially giving smooth, 'perfect shaping'. Subsequent steaming from inside helps to set the shape. Forms are shaped in such a way that there are no gaps between the shoulder and the torso yielding a stable support to the loaded garment thus avoiding unwanted distortion and are easily adjustable. For even more specialised requirements suppliers of ironing and finishing equipment offer customized variations of the standard set up. This kind of service already results in a growing demand of such solutions.

Imported garments, after shipping, often have to be 'reconditioned' to freshen the garment and re-shape it for distribution. This is normally through a steam tunnel where precise control of all the inside parameters; air (quantity, flow, temperature, direction and speed both for heating and cooling), steam (quantity and quality, degree of humidity), and time, renders the best quality. Some tunnels enable continuous movement of garments as they are conveyor fed through the tunnel. Others operate a closed or batch processing method. Any of such with the option to be customized to the respective clients needs.

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