Introduction:

Textile Industry is in the forefrontof Indian economy, and contributes 4% to the GDP. Since the lifting of thetrade barriers and severe of competition from China, Pakistan, Bangladesh and other South Asian countries. Textile export has increased. India has an advantage of skilled manpower, reasonably priced yarn of superior quality andhas the ability to meet the quality demands of the garment sector of domesticand export market. With this background it is possible to achieve the projected performance. In the light of changing Economic scenario, globalisation and free worldtrade, modernization and technological upgradation of power loom sector isimportant to enhance its competitiveness.

Government of India, Ministry of Textiles has entrusted IL&FS to facilitate the establishment ofIntegrated Textile parks in the country. With world class Infrastructure for textileweaving units and processing plants to cater the needs of small scale sector.Also the Government has extended the TUFS, Capital Interest subside Schemes tomodernize the Textile sector Nearly 30 parks have been sanctioned and the production will commence in 2007-2008.

With the cluster development approach and teamwork in the textile manufacturing units of the park, the cost of production will go down. In order to produce quality Fabrics that will meet internationalquality demand, it is necessary to modernize the weaving units with shuttlelesslooms and requisite weaving preparatory equipments. With Government and private participation and timely modernization of textile Units, India will become the Marketleaders in Textiles and boost the countrys economy. This paper makes anattempt to highlight the appropriate Technology & equipment selection,specially suited to the small-scale sector.

Technology selection:

Technology selection andmodernisation of the weaving units depends upon the product mix of fabricsrequired in the domestic market, garment sector and export market. Also it isimperative to produce fault free fabrics and manufacture the fabric at lowercost. Operational cost has to be reviewed on a continuous basis. To face thecompetition Timely delivery of fabric as desired by the market is the order ofthe day, together with the capability to accept small order.

Product mix:

v  Yarn dyedgarment fabric from cotton and polyester cotton (Cloth width 150 cms Finished)

v  Bottom wearfabrics, denims, corduroy, stretch denims (150 cms finished width)

v  PolyesterViscose suiting/Poly wool suiting

v  Wider widthsheetings or bed linen (cotton and polyester blend) for domestic market andfor export market, having thread count varying from 300 to 600 (Cloth width atfinished stage160, 229 cms, 240 cms,290cms )

v  Furnishing fabrics, curtainsfabrics, Industrial fabrics

v  Technical fabrics i.e. Automotivetextiles ,filter cloth etc

Quality requirement of fabrics meant for garment sector/export market

1.  Yarn count, bothwarp and weft yarn as per 25% Uster Norm

2.  Cloth constructionEnds/inch & picks/inch as per the specification

3.  Cloth width asper requirement and within 2-3% tolerance limit

4.  Tearing strengthwarp & weft way as per specification

5.  Pillingresistance to wash and rubbing as per specification

6.  Colour fastnessto light, washing and rubbing as per specification

7.  Creaseresistance, bursting strength, bowing tendency

8.  Cloth inspectionstandard on point system of grading (4 point system)

Key issues to be considered for the modernisation of weaving sector

v  Capital cost of the machinery and equipments for the required product mix, keeping in view the return of Capital investment,( grey fabric cost/meter, cost/pick etc)

v  Flexibility of the equipment to meet the changing market demand, keeping in view the full utilization of the attachment of shuttleless looms such as dobby, jacquard, number of weft color selection

v  Operate the shuttleless looms at 85%-90% installed efficiency

v  Monitor the operating cost i.e. power, water, lighting, humidification, air in case of Airjet looms, lighting, spare parts etc.

v  Improve the infrastructure i.e. building, roads, transport and communication network, computer aided design facilities

v  Trained work force and training facilities, yarn testing and fabric testing facilities and market research, product development

Appropriate shuttleless looms options are:

v  New Rapier looms (Flexible or rigid) Indigenous or Imported

v  Airjet looms

v  Second hand rapier or Airjet looms, with a minimum residual life of 20 years and capable to work at the manufacturers recommended loom speed with minimum breakdowns

It is advisable to install new looms instead of second hand looms. To illustrate the advantage, Annexure I gives the comparison of new Rapier looms and second hand Rapier looms

Annexure I

Loom shed configuration:

Capital Cost of the Project (Approximate) Rupees in Lacs

Operating Cost/Meter (Conversion cost/meter)

Cost/metre will go down with Government interest subsidy, and power subsidy

Assumptions:

Technological comparison of Rapier looms and Airjet looms.

Both modern rapier looms and Airjet looms are capable to produce variety fabrics and are equipped with required attachments as per the customers requirement. Most of the looms are user friendly and easy to maintain because of the electronic controls.

To cater the needs of domestic market and export market the loom width ideally suited is 190 cms for single width weaving and 340 cms for multi-width width weaving or wider width weaving of sheetings and bed linen and furnishing fabrics

Technical specifications of shuttleless loom

Strategy to be adopted by the small-scale sector to optimize the production and control cost

1. Procure the imported/indigenous shuttleless looms ready to weave with required cams for plain, Twill or sateen weave with healds, heald frame. Warp beam, drop pins can be procured locally from reputed manufacturers to bring down the capital cost

2. Humidification system should be for minimum 24 looms to keep the cost low.

3 .In case of Airjet loom compressor should be for running 24-48 looms to reduce the cost. Air should be free of moisture and oil.

4. Employ contract skilled labour for knotting /drawing/loom cleaning to bring down the labour cost

5. Arrange to have the warp beam sized from reputed sizers.

6. Shuttleless loom utilization should be 95% and above

7. Maintenance personnel can be shared among a group of entrepreneurs

8. Engineering service can be shared among a group of entrepreneurs

9. Common spare parts storage to bring down the loom downtime

10 Insist on loom manufacturers representative to do the loom audit and maintenance check up

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