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Interview with Mapholo Ratau

 Mapholo Ratau
Mapholo Ratau
MD & Founder
Ledikana
Ledikana

We pride ourselves on delivering top-notch quality
Ledikana is a South African fashion and accessories brand based in Johannesburg. The company specialises in the manufacturing of contemporary African garments, hats, and other fashion accessories. Its products are handmade and culturally inspired, with style and quality being at the forefront of the manufacturing process. In a chat with Fibre2Fashion, MD & Founder Mapholo Ratau talks about the influence of traditional African textiles on contemporary fashion, the fusion of Western and African styles, and much more.

How have traditional African textiles and design elements influenced contemporary African fashion?

Traditional African textiles, particularly those from different cultures in South Africa, have significantly impacted contemporary fashion in the country. These traditional designs showcase vibrant colours, bold patterns, and intricate detailing, all of which provide a rich resource for modern fashion designers. In regions like Limpopo, for instance, the Barbadian culture is known for its striking hues of yellow, pink, green, and turquoise blue. These vivid colours are unmistakable and lend themselves seamlessly to modern fashion textiles.
 

What impact is the global fashion industry having on African fashion trends and local design practices?

Interestingly, it is more about the impact African fashion is having on the global stage rather than the other way around. Major international brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton are drawing inspiration—or, some might argue, appropriating—African and South African designs for their own collections. They have the financial power to make these designs globally popular, whereas many African designers do not have such resources. So, I would argue that the global fashion industry is actually being influenced more by us, rather than us being influenced by them. It is essential to note that the unique prints and designs originating from Africa are irreplaceable, serving as a vital inspiration for international labels.

How is the fusion of Western and African styles evolving the landscape of African fashion and accessories?

The blend of Western and African styles has created a dynamic evolution in African fashion and accessories. While retaining traditional elements, contemporary African designers are incorporating Western and European influences to produce versatile, modern pieces. This fusion is apparent in various accessories, from earrings to bags, where traditional African designs meet modern Western aesthetics.
For instance, in my store, you will find earrings that reflect both African and Western design elements. This fusion results in contemporary styles that are culturally enriched and globally appealing.

How is South Africa’s fashion industry contributing to sustainable and ethical fashion practices?

Speaking about my own business, Ledikana, we prioritise the use of original, tribal, and cultural prints that are both sustainable and authentic. This approach ensures that we maintain a connection with our cultural roots even as we explore contemporary designs. By sticking to original patterns and colours, we contribute to the sustainability of the fashion industry. The global market is taking note of our original and vibrant designs, acknowledging their impact and authenticity.

What role do accessories play in South African fashion, and how do traditional elements feature in modern South African accessory design?

Accessories play a pivotal role in South African fashion by complementing our vibrant outfits. While we have a rich array of colours native to our cultures, we also incorporate beautiful scarves and other accessories from countries like India. These elements, with their bold and beautiful colours, perfectly complement our own fashion and style.

Tell us about the inspiration behind starting Ledikana and how it has evolved since its inception.

Ledikana was born from my love for cats, a trait I inherited from my mother. This love ignited my creative spark, further fuelled by South Africa’s rich cultural tapestry and vivid colours. I have designed fabrics and prints, such as the porcupine print, influenced by my totem to honour my tribe from Limpopo. The porcupine symbolises boldness and strength, attributes that resonate with the essence of Ledikana. I named it ‘Babina Noco’ to pay homage to my nation; ‘Noco’ means porcupine in Sotho.

How do you source your products, and what criteria do you use to select the artisans and designers you collaborate with?

I primarily design for an audience aged between 21 and 65, focusing on timeless elegance. I collaborate with artisans and designers who match my commitment to creativity and quality. Given that Ledikana operates from high-profile locations like airports, the quality of our products must be impeccable to meet international standards. We pride ourselves on delivering top-notch quality, never compromising even the smallest details.

Do you think e-commerce has helped your brand reach a global audience? What challenges have you faced in this digital landscape?

Social media platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter have greatly expanded Ledikana’s international reach. Our presence at global shows in locations like London, Portugal, Milan, and Saudi Arabia has been enhanced through social media. Additionally, having stores in high-traffic areas like airports helps capture the attention of tourists. Our digital presence, along with virtual exhibitions, allows customers from various parts of the world to continue shopping our products even after leaving South Africa.

Could you share some success stories or memorable moments that highlight the impact Ledikana has had on the local communities or artisans you work with?

Ledikana has a deeply rooted commitment to giving back to the community. One example is the crèche in Limpopo named after my mother, whom the company is also named in honour of. We support them by providing educational resources like toys and books. In addition, we have launched the Ledikana Foundation to expand our philanthropic efforts. One of our recent collaborations is with the GIZ, a German institution focused on skill exchange. We have embarked on a project using locally sourced wool to manufacture felt fabric. This initiative, which started in February 2023, aims to empower women and communities by teaching them valuable skills. We are not just stopping there; we aim to extend this training to schools and other institutions.

What advice would you give to aspiring entrepreneurs looking to create a brand that celebrates cultural diversity and makes a positive impact in the African fashion industry?

Aspiring entrepreneurs should foremost follow their passion. It is crucial to tap into what genuinely excites you, rather than imitating others. Belief in oneself, determination, and resilience are key because the entrepreneurial journey is filled with challenges. So, when you encounter obstacles, it is essential to brush them off and remain steadfast in your mission.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 14/09/2023

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.