• Linkdin

Interview with René Bethmann

René Bethmann
René Bethmann
Senior Innovation Manager
VAUDE
VAUDE

We have established a reputation as sustainability pioneers
VAUDE is a family-run, European outdoor equipment supplier renowned for its commitment to environmental sustainability and social responsibility across its three business segments: Mountain Sports, Bike Sports, and Packs 'n Bags. Since 2001, VAUDE has adhered to the stringent environmental bluesign standard and was the first outdoor company to earn EMAS certification. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Senior Innovation Manager René Bethmann discusses the importance of sustainability and comfort in outdoor industry.

How is the outdoor gear and apparel industry adapting to the growing demand for sustainable and environmentally friendly products? What are some notable innovations or practices in this area?

The guiding principle is to move away from fossil fuel-based materials. Considering the planetary boundaries, it is essential to carefully evaluate alternative options in the realm of renewable carbon, focusing on the three pillar feedstock inputs: CCU (Carbon Capture and Utilisation), Biomass, and Recycling. Significant innovations are taking place, and the adoption of Mass Balance Allocation systems is instrumental in facilitating a rapid transition to renewable carbon solutions, thereby defossillising the industry. 
These systems allow for the recycling of materials that were previously challenging to recycle, such as waste tyres, complex and contaminated plastics, among others. Progress is being made in utilising biomass feedstock through biochemical processes. 
While textile-to-textile recycling technologies are emerging, they face challenges due to inadequate infrastructure, especially within Europe for synthetics and the need for substantial financial investments.
In addition to innovations on the material level, there are also many innovations on the textile machinery side, as witnessed at this year’s ITMA. The demand has arrived, and the industry is acting. Especially in the field of textile finishing, a lot is happening to save energy, water, and chemicals.
Verified product passports, which indicate the emission values per processed material, will help us to better communicate and improve our ecological footprint in the future.
 

With advancements in materials science and technology, what are some recent breakthroughs or developments that have significantly improved the performance and durability of outdoor gear and apparel?

Unfortunately, most companies have not yet prioritised durability and longevity with specific goals and measures in their agendas. While some regenerative technologies show promise initially, there is a risk of producing less-durable products.
In today’s market, performance alone is no longer sufficient; sustainability is a crucial attribute that must accompany it.
The development of drop-in solutions offers a way to shift towards renewable carbon input streams while maintaining the performance characteristics of existing dominant materials. This ensures that the quality remains comparable to fossil-based counterparts. Additionally, these solutions simplify the end-of-life process by allowing us to focus on our existing used material types. Given the existing challenges in implementing commercially viable recycling options for these materials, there is no immediate need for new material types in the short- to mid-term perspective.

In an increasingly competitive market, how are companies in the outdoor gear and apparel industry differentiating themselves through innovation? Can you provide examples of successful strategies or unique product offerings?

Transparency is a key factor in building trust, and trust, in turn, adds value. This holds true in various industries, including the outdoor gear and apparel industry. Market players in this industry can set themselves apart by embracing transparency and using it as a competitive advantage.
Even as smaller player, we have the opportunity to play a pioneering role in this industry. However, it is important to note that the success of material innovations depends on the collective efforts of all competitors. Collaboration and recognition of the value of these innovations are crucial for progress. We need scalability of sustainable technologies, otherwise we will not achieve holistic change.
In today’s business landscape, selling a physical product alone is no longer enough. To thrive and stay ahead, companies need to offer additional services beyond the product itself. Rental services, repair services, and educational services are some examples of the value-added services that can make a significant impact on the overall business.
Thus, by focusing on transparency, embracing material innovations, and expanding beyond traditional product offerings, companies in the outdoor gear and apparel industry can position themselves for success in a rapidly evolving market.

How has consumer behaviour and preferences evolved in the outdoor industry, and how are companies adapting their innovation efforts to meet these changing demands?

Customers in the outdoor industry demonstrate a heightened inclination to select sustainable products, driven by a stronger desire to make responsible choices. They seek to utilise products that align with their values and allow them to use them with a clear conscience.
Naturally, the product must meet the desired performance requirements while catering to the customer’s intended use. Therefore, it is imperative for new products to consistently provide an ecological advantage in addition to meeting customer needs.

Can you provide an overview of VAUDE’s approach to innovation and how it aligns with the company’s overall mission and values?

All our innovations are centred around sustainability and/or comfort, ensuring that our products address both these key aspects. Our brand caters to individuals who appreciate immersing themselves in nature and cherishing friendship in outdoor settings, rather than exclusively targeting high mountaineers. Hence, these two themes perfectly align with our brand values and resonate with our customer base.
At VAUDE, forward thinking and openness to new ideas have always been deeply ingrained in our company DNA.
As pioneers in the outdoor industry, VAUDE has gained recognition for numerous product innovations. Moreover, we have also established a reputation as sustainability pioneers, consistently venturing beyond conventional approaches.
Our success stems not only from motivated employees who recognise challenges and proactively seek solutions but also from our managers and leadership, who embrace these initiatives and integrate them into our framework.
Ultimately, our aim is to utilise the resources and possibilities available to us to make this world a better place once again.

What are some recent innovative products or solutions that VAUDE has developed, and how have they contributed to sustainability and environmental protection?

Recent developments have witnessed the successful commercialisation of the first textile products utilising BASF’s Ccycled compound. The feedstock for these products is sourced from waste tyres through the innovative process developed and executed by Pyrum in Germany.
In addition, we have recently unveiled our new ReCircle Collection during trade shows for the upcoming SS24 season. In this collection, our aim was to maximise the material content of PET. As a result, the resulting products can theoretically undergo chemical recycling, thereby achieving the same level of material quality such as from virgin sources. However, it is important to note that the reverse logistics infrastructure for this process is not yet in place on our side. One noteworthy achievement in this collection is our introduction of the world’s first waterproof PET coating for backpack fabrics. This breakthrough allows us to utilise the same material for both the textile and coating, leading to improved recyclability and sustainability in our products.

How does VAUDE foster a culture of innovation within the company? Are there any specific processes or initiatives in place to encourage and support creative thinking among employees?

Our STEPS programme empowers all employees to contribute their ideas and offers incentives for their valuable input. By creating an environment that values open communication and embraces diverse perspectives, we cultivate an atmosphere where creativity can thrive, and initial concepts can be transformed into impactful solutions.

In what ways does VAUDE collaborate with external partners or stakeholders to drive innovation? Can you share any examples of successful partnerships that have led to meaningful advancements?

As part of our approach, we have expanded our engagement upstream in the value chain. This means that we are not only in communication with our garment manufacturers and fabric suppliers, but also actively engage with spinning mills, chemical companies, and providers of raw feedstock.
In addition to collaborating on numerous funded research projects with academia and industry, we have established close partnerships with large chemical companies. These collaborations allow us to leverage their expertise and resources to drive innovation and sustainable practices forward.
As a medium-sized, family-owned enterprise, we acknowledge that we do not possess the financial resources to invest millions of dollars in potential progressive start-ups, although it would be desirable to do so. However, we are fortunate to receive support from large chemical companies who offer a helping hand in advancing our sustainability goals and initiatives.

How do you gather insights and feedback from customers to inform the innovation process? Are there any specific channels or methods employed to ensure customer input is valued and incorporated into product development?

We use a dedicated end customer feedback portal, the VAUDE support centre, along with AI-supported evaluation of customer reviews and, to some extent, sales feedback. This comprehensive approach forms the foundation for our product development process.
However, this is just one facet of our research. The majority of our insights stem from our extensive network, which encompasses both physical and digital connections.
Many valuable and innovative ideas emerge through personal exchanges with experts and professionals from diverse fields outside our own.
Part of my daily responsibilities includes diligently examining scientific reports and reading specialised media to stay informed and up-to-date. Often, this process confirms whether my ideas are right or wrong.
Ultimately, our primary goal is to exceed customer expectations by staying ahead of their needs and desires.

Sustainability is a core value for VAUDE. How does the company integrate sustainability considerations into the innovation process? Are there any specific criteria or guidelines that innovations must meet to ensure their environmental and social impact is positive?

At the core of our approach lies the Green Shape System, which serves as both an eco-design tool and a seal of approval. This comprehensive system oversees the entire product value chain, from creation to end-of-life like no other existing single certification can offer.
In order to meet the stringent standards set by the Green Shape System, our innovations and products must adhere to some of the strictest requirements in the industry.
Further, to ensure ongoing improvement and relevance, we continuously review and revise our Green Shape System together with an external board of advisory. This commitment allows us to stay at the forefront of sustainability and maintain our position as a leader in the industry.

Looking ahead, what are the company’s long-term goals and aspirations when it comes to innovation? Are there any specific areas or industries that you are particularly interested in exploring or disrupting?

VAUDE is committed to continually reducing its environmental impact and providing functional, comfortable products that enable our customers to enjoy nature with a clear conscience. However, achieving this goal entails overcoming numerous challenges that demand innovative solutions. Key areas of focus include exploring alternative material sources, embracing the circular economy, and expanding our rental concept.
Our overarching objective is to align with the Science-Based Targets (SBTs) and adhere to the 1.5°C pathway. Consequently, each innovation must contribute to reducing our ecological footprint. To accomplish these objectives, we initiated a journey over five years ago, delving deeper into our supply chain, tracing back to polymers and chemicals. As a family-owned company, we have established partnerships with major chemical players such as BASF, Covestro, and UPM, as well as with highly innovative emerging companies. Despite not being large enough to serve as a primary rollout partner, we have gained trust as an innovation collaborator. Our contributions come in the form of enhancing our brand image and openly sharing our knowledge and expertise. Within the industry, we are recognised as a gateway and stepping stone to new possibilities. Ultimately, our supply chain closely resembles that of our larger competitors.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 12/07/2023

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.