Textile Exchange, Fashion Charter launch joint initiative for rPET

The rPET Challenge petitions the apparel industry to commit to increasing the global percentage of recycled polyester from 14 per cent to 45 per cent at 17.1 million metric tonnes by 2025. About 85 brands and suppliers have already committed to the challenge, said the global non-profit in a press release. It asks brands to commit to the most ambitious uptake target possible.

“Helly Hansen is committed to reducing its dependency on fossil fuels and its overall environmental footprint. We recognise that transferring to the use of recycled raw materials is an important action towards that commitment and are proud to be part of the founding cohort of this joint industry initiative,” said Rebecca Johansson, sustainability and R&D manager, Helly Hansen.

Some of the brands that have committed to date include Adidas, Athleta, Aware (by The Movement), Banana Republic, Focus Têxtil, G-Star Raw, H&M Group, Helly Hansen, House of Baukjen, Inditex Group, ITOCHU Corporation Textile Material section, JCrew, Lululemon, Madewell, Mantis World, Mara Hoffman, Moose Knuckles, Nudie Jeans, Outerknown, Pact, Prana, Reformation, Varner, VF Corporation and White + Warren.

Polyester (PET) is the most widely used fibre in the apparel industry, accounting for around 52 per cent of the total volume of fibres produced globally. The apparel industry accounts for around 32 million tonnes of the 57 million tonnes of polyester used each year. Currently, only approximately 14 per cent of this comes from recycled inputs – predominantly from postconsumer PET bottles, the release said.

Recycled polyester has a significantly lower carbon footprint than conventional. To stay within the 1.5-degree pathway as recommended by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, we need to bring the share of mechanically recycled (or equivalent) fibre/filament within the polyester market from 14 per cent to 90 per cent by 2030. By 2025, rPET or equivalent needs to comprise at least 45 per cent of fashion’s polyester market – this is equivalent to roughly 17.1 million metric tonnes of fibre (assuming a 3 per cent growth rate of the apparel industry).

Currently, mechanically recycled polyester from plastic water bottles makes up the vast majority of recycled polyester, however, chemical recycling, textile to textile recycling and other innovative technologies will be a necessary part of reaching the goal.

Companies committing to this initiative will be required to annually report their polyester consumption to Textile Exchange’s Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark (CFMB) survey, which will track progress across all participating brands towards the collective goal.

"At Reformation, we have always taken a strong stance against sourcing conventional synthetics (aka fossil-fuel fabrics). Taking part in the 2025 rPET Challenge is aligned with our brand’s circularity and climate action commitments and is a great show of cross-industry commitment for a more sustainable future,” said Carrie Freiman, director of sustainability, Reformation.

Textile Exchange will report annually on the 2025 rPET Challenge, utilising 2019 volume data as a baseline and a view to accomplishing both Textile Exchange’s and the Fashion Charter’s overall commitment to staying within the 1.5-degree pathway.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KD)