Our mission is to improve the fashion industry
Geneus Biotech is an innovative biotechnology venture, leveraging patented stem cell-based technology to revolutionise the production of animal fibres and hair follicles for the apparel, textile, and medical industries. With a commitment to sustainability and ethical practices, the company aims to reduce intensive farming, waste, and pollution, while pioneering new materials for a greener future. In a conversation with Fibre2Fashion, Founder Maria Zakurnaeva delves into how her background in the fashion industry drives her passion for disruptive technologies such as Furoid and the Liquid Series of keratin-based materials.
According to you, what innovations in textile materials or fibres will have the most significant impact on the industry in the coming years?
I believe that the founders who persist despite challenges will make the most significant contributions. In my opinion, recycling approaches and plant-based materials will have the greatest impact in the next decade.
What strategies can textile companies employ to reduce their reliance on conventional, resource-intensive materials like cotton and polyester, in favour for more sustainable alternatives?
The optimal strategy is to embrace innovation and invest in emerging technologies. Collaboration and the integration of corporate social responsibility (CSR) measures are key to shaping the global fashion and apparel market, addressing both technical and socioeconomic challenges.
How can biodegradable and compostable textiles contribute to creating a more circular economy in the fashion industry?
The imminent legislative regulations will increase demand for biodegradable and compostable textiles. While it is important for these textiles to meet quality standards to play a significant role in the fashion industry, their impact can be even greater in other sectors. Given our preference for industrial applications beyond textiles and fashion, we do not see an overwhelming risk in the inefficiencies of the textile industry, such as permanent overproduction, and its resistance towards circularity. Administrative enforcement of the circular system, which we strongly support, will lead to multiple disruptions in the textile and fashion industry. These disruptions will not only promote more CSR-centric approaches but also reduce inequalities in traditional production countries.
How do you see advancements in sustainable manufacturing processes impacting the future of the textile industry, and what role can biotechnology play in driving these changes?
Rising apparel costs may naturally address overproduction and overconsumption issues, promoting a ‘produce less, produce better’ approach. Biotechnology offers solutions to eliminate technical shortcomings and inherent inefficiencies, such as streamlining logistics chains and simplifying complex additive manufacturing techniques and equipment.
In what ways do you see biotechnology intersecting with other industries, such as textile and apparel, and what opportunities does this convergence present?
The role of synthetic biology in the textile and apparel industry is poised to be as significant as the introduction of industrial spinning technologies in the early 19th century. Over the next decade, a new set of technologies will transform the production of textiles and apparel.
Can you provide an overview of Geneus Biotech’s mission and how it aims to revolutionise the apparel and textile production industry?
Our mission is to improve the fashion industry. I prefer not to use the word ‘revolutionise’, as it implies fundamental change, which I do not foresee happening. The fashion and apparel industry, while not perfect, is an essential part of our daily lives, employing 430 million people globally. Fashion items have been used since the beginning of humankind. Industrialisation and globalisation have led to overproduction, with the fashion industry utilising available resources. However, with significant advancements in science and technology in recent decades, we now have an incredible opportunity to enhance manufacturing and production processes.
What inspired the development of Geneus Biotech’s stem cell-based technologies? What gap in the industry did you aim to address?
Geneus Biotech was established in 2017, during a time when the fashion industry operated largely without regard for sustainability, and before sustainability became a mainstream concern. Recognising the imminent need for change, we envisioned a future where sustainability would be paramount. My co-founder Henri, with expertise in tissue engineering for neurodegenerative diseases, pioneered a novel method for growing hair follicles in vitro. As for myself, I am passionate about original materials and firmly believe in their enduring allure. Without genuine appreciation and love for a material, I do not believe it can be truly improved upon.
How does Geneus Biotech’s LiquidSeries technology work, and what potential impact does it have on the reduction of carbon footprint and waste in the textile industry?
The concept for LiquidSeries was conceived in 2022 in anticipation of the European Union Green Deal regulations. LiquidSeries involves the chemical recycling of textile waste without the use of harmful chemicals. We can process various materials, including wool, woollen textiles, feathers, and other keratin-containing materials. According to our calculations, for every 100 grams of LiquidSeries material produced, we are able to remove more than 1.68 kilograms of CO2 emissions.
Could you elaborate on the process of extracting keratin from animal fibre waste and its transformation into new materials?
We obtain high molecular weight keratin. Once the keratin is obtained, it is mixed with other biopolymers and run through a spinning process to obtain fibres.
What are the key features and benefits of LiquidWool, and why did Geneus Biotech choose to launch it in the luxury wool sector?
The luxury sector not only sets trends but also commands significantly higher price points, allowing us to achieve favourable margins even in the early stages of our business development. However, we anticipate expanding into wider market segments over time.
Can you explain the significance of Furoid technology in recreating animal fibres and its potential implications for the fur industry?
Furoid has the potential to eradicate animal cruelty without compromising customer choices. We aim to introduce a new option that not only aligns with ethical and environmental values but also offers proprietary benefits. It is worth noting that the production process of 1 kilogram of original mink fur emits 130 kg of CO2, further emphasising the need for sustainable alternatives like Furoid.
How does Furoid address ethical concerns and contribute to sustainability in fur production?
Structural fibrous proteins and animal fibres, exemplified by our LiquidSeries keratin products, offer a unique opportunity to save animals. Not only can we eliminate animal cruelty by providing sustainable alternatives, but we can also reduce reliance on harmful and toxic polyester materials, thus promoting environmental health and welfare.
What are the main advantages of using Furoid over traditional fur materials, both in terms of performance and environmental impact?
We recognise the superior performance of original fur and endeavour to replicate its aesthetic appeal, texture, and durability while addressing ethical concerns. Our goal is to pioneer a new material category that surpasses conventional fur, offering additional functionalities such as specific pigmentation, conductivity, sensors, and more akin to medical biopolymers. While ongoing research and development guide our efforts, the exact functionalities for initial product launches are yet to be finalised.
What ethical considerations are involved in deciding which animal fibres can be included in the production process, and how does Geneus Biotech address them?
We adopt a pragmatic approach, recognising that animal products like leather, feathers, and wool are often byproducts or co-products of conventional agriculture, resulting in an abundance of surplus keratin sources. To address this, we have initiated our own recycling and reverse logistics projects, collecting and processing various intake materials to maximise resource utilisation.
Looking ahead, what are the company’s long-term goals and vision for shaping the future of apparel and textile production on a global scale?
We remain committed to advancing our research and development initiatives, prioritising recycling efforts, and integrating new technologies. Our goal is to consistently deliver sustainable and highly functional products that meet the evolving needs of our clients.
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