EU unveils new textile strategy to drive sustainability

EURATEX has welcomed the ambitions of the European Union (EU) to act on sustainable textiles and investments, in order to change how the textiles are made, chosen and recovered.

Many European companies have already chosen this path, therefore the strategy should support them in this process, especially considering today’s energy crisis. The strategy recognises the strategic importance of textiles, which are not only used as apparel or furniture, but applied in cars, medical equipment, agriculture, etc. It acknowledges the European Industry pro-active initiatives to tackle microplastics, to solve challenges of market surveillance and the skills needed. More cooperation is needed for re-use and recycling of textiles and to set up an EU market for secondary raw materials. On this last point, EURATEX ReHubs initiative is developing proposals to seize EPR potential, to transform waste into value, and create a new capacity and jobs, EURATEX said in a press release.

The proposed ‘transition pathways’, which will translate the strategy into action, will be critical in this respect: how will these sustainability targets be reached, what will the cost for SMEs be, how can companies be supported in that green transition, what about the impact on global competitiveness? These are essential questions to be addressed in the coming months.

The Textile strategy is part of a much broader package, including as many as 16 new legislative actions and other policies which will directly impact the textile value chain. In particular the Sustainable Product Initiative Regulation which includes game-changing provisions on Digital Product Passport, Eco-Design, SMEs and Green Public Procurement. The Regulation has an overwhelming ambition and, to be realistic, it would require a new way of joint working between institutions and business, and which builds on lessons learned on data flow across value chains, interoperability, conformity assessment and effective measures to support SMEs.

If wrongly implemented, such an unprecedented wave may cause a complete collapse of the European textile value chain under the burden of restrictions, requirements, costs and unlevel playing field. On the contrary, the changes ahead can boom the entire textile ecosystem and create a model of successful green and digital transition in manufacturing, which starts in Europe and expands globally.

EURATEX also welcomes the establishment of the Digital Product Passport. It has a high potential to improve every step in the textile value chain, from design and manufacturing to recycling and purchasing. At the same time, EURATEX calls the co-legislators to take into account the role of SMEs in this transition and to put forward pragmatic initiatives, supporting SMEs across the EU in a systematic approach.