Functional Fabrics for the active outdoor sportswear market

17 Apr '08

4 min read

• Scientific publication of test methods to validate their relevance to the active outdoor sector and add integrity via acceptance by the international scientific community.
• Development of a leadership position in the supply of innovative New Zealand Merino products to the AOS .

Phase 1: Development of quantitative and qualitative measurement systems Until now, most fabric performance tests were based on woven fabrics. This meant that before active outdoor sportswear fabrics could be tested, specific and relevant test methods had to be developed.

These included tests for:
• air permeability
• water vapour permeability
• resistance to water
• drying time
• heat transfer properties (dry/wet)
• odour
• UV transmission

In recognition of the tough treatment dealt out to merino gear during manufacture and use, the following product performance factors were included in the testing methods:
• pre-treatment of fabrics (to ensure fabric stability prior to testing)
• dry/wet/damp (fabric properties change with varying amounts of water present)
• single/multiple layers (performance is affected by layers below and above)
• relaxed and extended (fabric properties differ with different conditions in use).

An immediate commercial advantage of this work is the positioning of NZM and DTI as leaders in providing innovative and proven merino fabrics for the AOS sector.
• DTI's MAPP (Merino Advanced Performance Programme) branding will likely become a significant ingredient brand recognised for quality, integrity and innovation in the AOS sector.
• New merino and merino-blend fabrics can now be tested during development, providing DTI and approved brand partners with a technological advantage.

Phase 2: Optimisation of fibre, yarn and textile fabrication Fabrics specifically engineered for an active outdoor end-use are more likely to command a price-premium or preferred supplier status among garment manufacturers over generic, non-targeted fabrics presented by competitors.

This project has provided useful information on the effects of manufacturing processes on particular fabric properties. For example, the effects of colouration and batch, and the effects of applying a 'wicking' finish to the selected fabrics were investigated.

The results put end-users, including those at retail, in a better position to request and/or market products with particular properties and will help textile manufacturers to develop fabrics specifically designed to exhibit superior performance measures.

Merino Inc