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Dsquared2's signature relaxed Napoli goes to Capri
Jun '13
Island Touchdown and washed the shore. Returning war heroes with that innocence of youthful rebellion, reminiscent of 1950’s boy stars, have taken a wrong turn, disappear from radars and now find themselves in an island paradise: golden sands, a dazzling sun, a lush tropical forest make the perfect backdrop for all Earthly Delights.

There’s the scent of a tropical adventure, an exciting mix of amplified characters, the contradiction of tribal and formal, the necessity to improvise, and the raw physicality of sweltering hot men on a mission.

Our protagonists are molto military, but far from prepared for this tropical adventure.  They packed light, just the essentials, using a series of weekend bags and totes in bold animal hides and raffia.

The silhouette is 1950's, cropped and wide. Fatigues evolve to become combat cut offs; hems and cuffs are raw, Derbys loose their laces, and khakis are distressed, crumpled and wired.

The tropical clime forces volumes to be turned up; jackets and shirts with notched collars are boxed – they are too hot to tuck in.  Pants come cropped, and shorts long.

Fabrics are kept lightweight and fluid; chambray denim, delicate cottons, and fine double-sided waterproof gum fabric, all feature prominently.

Dsquared2’s signature leather pieces are all in there, this time they come with a wink to Marlon B., his iconic cap, and heavy biker boot that’s matched with a quilted chiodo jacket.

Clothing is ‘makeshift’.  Necessity is the mother of invention. From the plane wreckage the rattan seating is retrieved, while bold animal hides and parrot feathers are recycled, patched and molded into the daywear. 

Stitching, threading, embroidery, appliqué are some of the techniques that are fused together to create vivid tribal motifs, or as doodle-like tattoos. Exquisitely tailored tie silk is cut into cropped boxer pants, adding a touch of refinement.

There’s a series of elegant ensembles; Dsquared2’s signature relaxed Napoli has gone to Capri; now we find it lightweight with an even slouchier, deconstructed shoulder.  Some of the suits follow a classical “instruction” - while others get thrown on top of distressed jeans and raffia skirts.

Accessories are exotically elemental.  Chains are made from bamboo, bone in resin, seeds, mini shells, driftwood and beading, while Dsquared2’s Buddy Holly-inspired sunglass frames come in mahogany and horn.

Colors play off the khaki in the collection; bordeaux, hot reds, denims and deep blues.  Leathers appear in wonderful creamy pistachios, glorious fluorescent corals and black.

The drums beat as a golden sun sets on yet another day on this happy island paradise.  The perfect Shangri-La-La until the rescue party arrives.


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