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Interview with Panya Gupta

Panya Gupta
Panya Gupta
Founder
PHUE
PHUE

PHUE navigates intricate intersection of chaos, art, and fashion
Founded in July 2021, PHUE is a maximalist fashion brand that thrives on “Creating stories through chaos.” This unique philosophy guides the brand in curating art for fashion, with a focus on celebrating the power of hue. More than just a fashion label, PHUE serves as a canvas for personal expression, where each piece tells a story of chaos transformed into art. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Founder Panya Gupta discusses the brand’s approach, blending maximalist fashion with wearable art to create clothing that is both unique and distinctive.

Can you share your thoughts on sustainable fashion and its importance in the fashion industry?

Sustainable fashion represents a fundamental shift in the industry's approach to the environment and ethical practices. It goes beyond trends, emphasising eco-conscious alternatives to traditional practices. Ethical standards, including fair wages and dignified working conditions, are prioritised, challenging longstanding norms. The modern consumer sees fashion choices as statements of values, driving a departure from fast fashion towards quality and timelessness. This shift is industry-wide, with major players integrating eco-friendly practices to lead the way. In essence, sustainable fashion is a profound commitment to respect the planet, uphold ethical standards, align with conscious consumers, and revolutionise the industry.
 

As consumer behaviours and preferences continue to evolve, how can industries adapt to meet changing demands?

To succeed in the competitive fashion market, a clothing brand should prioritise sustainability, leverage technology for personalisation, invest in a seamless digital experience, build a resilient supply chain, foster continuous innovation, integrate social responsibility, embrace agile marketing, enhance the customer experience, and encourage collaboration in the fashion design process. These principles ensure adaptability and responsiveness to evolving consumer preferences and market dynamics.

How do you view the role of technology, such as AI and virtual reality, in the future of fashion design and retail?

analysing data on trends and consumer preferences, enabling personalisation and customisation. Virtual reality aids in virtual prototyping and enhances the consumer experience through immersive online interactions. These technologies optimise the supply chain, support sustainability efforts, and offer innovative marketing strategies. Overall, the integration of AI and virtual reality presents exciting possibilities for creativity, personalisation, sustainability, and enhanced consumer engagement in the fashion industry.

In the broader industry landscape, what notable trends do you see emerging that could impact maximalist fashion?

Sustainability and conscious consumerism are becoming more crucial, driving maximalist brands to align with eco-friendly practices. Digital innovation, virtual experiences, personalisation, and inclusivity are shaping consumer expectations, challenging maximalist brands to adapt. The rise of resale and circular fashion calls for sustainability integration. Technology, a backlash against fast fashion, and a penchant for nostalgia also impact the maximalist landscape. Additionally, the influence of digital and social media, coupled with shifts in consumer lifestyles, requires strategic adaptation for maximalist brands to thrive in this dynamic industry.

What was the inspiration behind starting PHUE, and how has your vision evolved since its inception in July 2021?

My early exposure to art galleries ignited a curiosity that shaped my aesthetic experimentation. In college, discovering surreal art became pivotal, influencing my ability to merge tangible and intangible elements in fashion. This journey led to creating PHUE, a brand weaving disparate elements into cohesive narratives. Drawing from childhood experiences and experiments with mood boards, I aim to transcend mere aesthetics, crafting garments with depth and meaning.
PHUE belongs to the bridge market. However, in terms of philosophy, business model, and brand structure, PHUE offers a unique vision. It provides more than just clothing; it stands as a complete entity on its own, requiring nothing more than the narrative it presents. In many ways, investing in PHUE is a one-time investment in someone’s artistic vision and love for art. 
The evolution of PHUE in the past two and a half years has been influenced by the assimilation of all the customer feedback and interactions that I have had. We actively collect and consider feedback from customers, sourced from reviews, surveys, direct interactions, social media comments, and more. This assimilation is not just about collecting feedback but also integrating it into our decision-making processes.
Moreover, our customer interaction extends beyond feedback collection. We engage with our customer base by responding to queries, participating in social media discussions, and creating opportunities for direct communication through events or online platforms.

How do you define ‘maximalist fashion’ and what makes PHUE stand out in this genre?

PHUE’s USP revolves around the concept of maximalism, a term that deeply resonated with me upon discovery a few years ago. Maximalism, to me, signifies indulging all senses simultaneously—an essence I had been practicing unknowingly. For PHUE, maximalism is not about material excess but embracing life to the fullest, offering visual feasts in the form of garments that provide a sensory delight for wearers.
Every aspect of PHUE’s garments is crafted to find the perfect equilibrium amid chaos. Similar to losing oneself in an art gallery captivated by an intricate piece, PHUE seeks to innovate while appealing to a niche market that shares its core values. The brand’s mission is to thematically transport individuals to a better time, translating emotions onto surfaces and prints.
While art is deeply personal and design subjective, PHUE strives to harmonise the two. Maximalism, often misunderstood, is redefined by PHUE as the ability to extract meaningful narratives from chaos and transform disorder into significant pieces of art. It is a celebration of life, embracing the aesthetic of ‘more is more’. PHUE reflects the restlessness of present times by embracing maximalism in fashion.

What role do bold colours and statement silhouettes play in PHUE’s design ethos?

At PHUE, bold colours and statement silhouettes are foundational to the brand's distinctive design ethos. Each garment is a canvas of unique prints and vibrant colours, carefully selected to infuse surrealist ideas, creating a visual language beyond mere clothing. These elements play a pivotal role in delivering an immersive experience to customers, with every fabric and print contributing to a deliberate and meaningful design narrative. This intentional approach sets PHUE apart, turning each piece into a medium for artistic expression and individuality. In essence, PHUE transforms fashion into a wearable work of art.

How do you incorporate the concept of wearable art into your fashion collections?

PHUE's core philosophy, ‘Creating stories through chaos’, harmoniously fuses art and fashion, transcending conventional boundaries. This narrative reflects a deep desire to unravel chaos, evoke emotional responses through colours and shapes, and transform surroundings into wearable art. In a world often lacking meaningful narratives, PHUE emerges as a storyteller, emphasising human connection and appreciating the passion invested in art creation. Guided by the values of passion, persistence, and process, PHUE navigates the intricate intersection of chaos, art, and fashion.

Can you discuss the sustainability practices or eco-friendly initiatives that PHUE incorporates?

PHUE embraces sustainability holistically, considering every aspect of its business, including production, packaging, material usage, and marketing. The brand emphasises radical transparency in the supply chain and acknowledges the challenges, particularly as a small business. While incorporating materials like PU, rexine, and polyester, PHUE continuously explores a variety of options to expand choices for consumers.
Currently, the sustainability focus lies in aspects under the brand’s direct control, avoiding fast fashion practices associated with unsustainable production cycles, labour exploitation, and poor working conditions. PHUE's aesthetic, rooted in art, is guided by core values of ‘passion, persistence, and process’. The brand prioritises the process, dedicating time to deliberate decisions, as seen in the evolution of the NOSTOS collection into the ready-to-wear KALEDIOS line. This deliberate approach involves seeking feedback, refining designs, and producing according to demand to minimise waste.
PHUE's commitment to sustainability extends beyond materials to encompass the entire production process. The brand's philosophy revolves around time and process, emphasising continuous evolution and improvement while upholding the principles of sustainability.

How do you ensure that your clothes are not only visually stunning but also comfortable and of high quality?

PHUE ensures the visual appeal, comfort, and high quality of its clothing through a meticulous design and production process, including:
Material Selection: Prioritising high-quality, breathable materials.
Functionality in Design: Balancing aesthetics with practicality for everyday use.
Prototyping and Sampling: Rigorous testing and adjustments for visual and functional refinement.
Attention to Detail: Precision in stitching and finishing touches.
Consumer Feedback: Valuing input for continuous improvement.
Ethical Production: Adhering to fair labour conditions and sustainability.
Real-world Testing: Assessing durability and comfort in various conditions.
Craftsmen Collaboration: Partnering with skilled craftsmen for visual appeal and construction.
This commitment to quality aims for a harmonious blend of visual artistry, comfort, and durability, providing consumers with aesthetically pleasing and comfortable clothing.

What strategies does PHUE employ to stay ahead in the competitive fashion industry amid the trend towards minimalist fashion?

To thrive in the competitive fashion industry, PHUE employs strategies such as maintaining a distinctive maximalist aesthetic, continuously innovating in design, and fostering emotional connections through compelling storytelling. Sustainability practices, a robust online presence, and active consumer engagement contribute to standing out. The brand also adapts to industry trends, selectively incorporating minimalist elements, and utilises data analytics for informed decision-making, ensuring agility in the ever-evolving market.

Could you walk us through the process of curating a collection for PHUE, from conception to final product?

PHUE's journey from concept to final product involves:
Conceptualisation: Selecting a broad theme for the collection.
Sub-Concept Development: Exploring tangible and intangible elements within the theme.
Visual Research: Creating mood boards and surreal artworks.
Colour Story Development: Organising colours aligned with the theme.
Surface Techniques and Print Development: Creating unique textures and prints.
Silhouette Design: Crafting silhouettes influenced by both tangible and intangible elements.
Material Selection: Choosing materials in coherence with the collection's theme.
Prototyping and Iteration: Creating and refining prototypes based on feedback.
Finalisation: Coordinating with manufacturers for production.
Launch and Presentation: Showcasing the collection through various platforms.
Driven by the core values of passion, persistence, and process, this process results in a thematic, innovative, and tactile collection.

What has been your most challenging project or collection so far, and why?

PHUE's most challenging project was the debut collection, KALEIDOS, impacted by the unexpected hurdles of the pandemic. This period brought disruptions to the production cycle, including sourcing struggles and organisational challenges. Despite these obstacles, a commitment to innovation and adaptability persisted, leading to valuable lessons in resilience and growth. The experience emphasised the need for contingency planning and resilient supply chains, shaping strategies to ensure a more seamless production process in the future.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 07/02/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.