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From cocktail to club fashion on LFW day 1

Sep '08
It may have been a sleepy Sunday morning for everyone else in London, but by 9am on the Cromwell Road, the BFC tents were already buzzing. Harold Tillman kicked off the opening day of London Fashion Week with his first official appointment as the chairman of the British Fashion Council.

S/S 09 London catwalk highlights:
Charles Anastase Having decamped from Paris, it was his first season showing in London for the former illustrator turned designer. Otherwise it was business as usual with Anastase revisiting his ongoing obsession with Degas' ballerinas and Victoriana.

Ossie Clark Today's presentation of long, lean fluid dresses, drapey jumpsuits and cocktail shorts revealed how the brand should move forward: throwing a nod to the mantle of Clark's design genius rather than being weighed down by it.

Unique Turning its back on the conceptual tone of past collections, Unique plumped instead for channelling Topshop's signature youthful spirit. Styled by Katie Grand the collection went back to its roots fusing Wild West meets East End references wrapped up in an 80 redux.

Graeme Black Having spent 15 years at Ferragamo and Giorgio Armani, Black's offering articulated a refined vision of grown up dressing that injected the London runways with a very grown up shot of Milano polish.

Après show? First up, was the unveiling of the Gareth Pugh designed Moet & Chandon Bar. Dressed in monochrome outfits (to match the black and white Pugh-designed sunglasses invites presumably), the assembled cool crowd of Alexa Chung, Pixie, Peaches and the i-D posse lapped up the Saturday nightclub feel of the cube-like space. Next? To Piccadilly, to PPQ's post show party at Vendome.

Queues snaked around the block outside while inside the likes of model turned designer Ben Grimes and muso husband Jackson Scott boogied on down to the front-line act The Horrors.It was a great start to what looks set to be an exciting week.

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