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IOM-Double tech improves efficiency in denim production

Aug '12
In the clothing sector, denim is an indigo blue “evergreen”. This tough, twill fabric is normally dyed with C.I. Pigment Blue 66 and C.I. 73000 in the Colour Index, and is produced by processing undyed weft yarns with ring-dyed warp yarns. Ring dyeing is a characteristic feature of denim production. In the conventional process, the yarns are either processed as a hank (rope) or spread out next to each other (slasher) and only the sheath is dyed. The dye is applied in several treatment stages.

This process, which is still used in traditional denim production, is carried out nowadays using the latest machine technology, and KARL MAYER is the leader in producing the processing machines. This European manufacturer supplies high-quality, innovative machines that consistently meet the changing challenges of the market and develops both economical and ecologically sound preparatory machines for the weaving sector. KARL MAYER always takes into account the economics and end-uses when working on new innovations. For example, many different, flexible, optional application techniques are integrated into the machines to enable the customer to react flexibly to different market requirements.

The different chemical methods for finishing the yarns, such as a caustic treatment, dyeing and sizing, offer a huge potential for increasing the efficiency by developing synergistic processes and combining processes within the denim processing chain.

Nowadays, different functions and processing steps are integrated into the weaving preparatory processes to increase quality, flexibility and economic viability. Combining the key processes of dyeing and sizing has proved to be very effective. Depending on the make-up of the yarns, the semi-continuous, open-width dyeing/sizing process, known as the SLASHER-DYEING-Process, and the discontinuous hank/rope dyeing with subsequent sizing, known as the ROPE-DYEING-Process are used in denim production in practice.

The first step in the SLASHER-DYEING-Process involves producing beams by winding 300-700 parallel yarns being fed from packages.

In the next stage, the yarns from 8 to 24 beams are then taken off together under a controlled tension and passed through the dyeing and sizing section. At the end of this process, the yarns are wound together onto a weaving beam.

The ROPE-DYEING-Process also begins with taking the yarns off packages. In the ball warping process, the individual yarns are combined to form a rope, which is then wound onto a yarn carrier known as the ball. The next stage involves dyeing. In this process, 12 to 36 balls are taken off under a controlled tension and fed to the dyeing section as ropes and are subsequently coiled into cans. The ropes are then opened out and the yarns are wound next to each other onto a beam. From 8 to 24 beams run together under a controlled tension through the sizing machine. The final weaving beam is produced by a beaming/winding process.

Both of these dyeing processes have pros and cons, but they do offer the potential for optimisation if they are joined together. KARL MAYER successfully faced up to this challenge by developing the IOM-Double technology.

KARL MAYER’s IOM-Double technology is based on the processing sequences of SLASHER-DYEING but has the productivity advantages of ROPE-DYEING.

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